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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - H & R barrel / FSB question, cool upper receiver too (+ NDS lower = complete rifle!) (Page 2 of 2)
I changed some parts around, added some naval jelly and wear to LPK parts. We had some fun taking pictures today. I clamped a tire spoon in a vice and wrapped enough rag around it to hold the rifle up by the pistol grip without moving (too much). It still moved, I want to cast something to fit in there perfect for the re-shoot. The helmet is mine, I've had it since I was 8 or 9, the coat belongs to my friend. Exposure was 1.6 seconds so it gave the "model" time to move and hide his identity. (I edited out the tire spoon and rag stuck in the PG)
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| Nice looking rifle and definitely an eye turner at the range. I like what you did to the lower receiver to make it match the wear on your H&R upper. I purchased a black NDS16A1 lower with the battle field pickup finish and the only area of the lower which I noted any sort of wear was on the fence and raised areas around the magwell. The lower does not match my upper at all color wise and I would like it to match closer. Can you provide a little more instructions on how you added the wear to your lower? |
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Nice looking rifle and definitely an eye turner at the range. I like what you did to the lower receiver to make it match the wear on your H&R upper. I purchased a black NDS16A1 lower with the battle field pickup finish and the only area of the lower which I noted any sort of wear was on the fence and raised areas around the magwell. The lower does not match my upper at all color wise and I would like it to match closer. Can you provide a little more instructions on how you added the wear to your lower? Hey MacAttack, I thought you would like it. I sent my upper receiver to NDS so they could pick an "in the white" (no anodizing) lower with the best physical fit but mine is still loose. I'm guessing these uppers were made that way, an ACCU-Wedge helps. NDS sent my upper and lower receiver to US Anodizing and Victor did a very nice job matching the color. I'm no expert, but from what I have read and from what Victor told me via email the hard coat anodizing is what makes the bronze / gold / green color and after anodizing the part is coated with a black dye. For you to get yours to look like this you would have to have it re-anodized in the same way. Re-anodizing a lower costs more than it does for one "in the white" and Victor asked me to have Mike pick one that had not been bead blasted if possible. I'm not sure why he wanted one that had not been blasted but he was able to do this. (Your lower receiver was probably bead blasted before anodizing) I don't know if is possible to get a good color match without sending your upper to US Anodizing, I don't know if Victor can / has saved a 'recipe' for this color. I assembled the rifle before I wore the black away, I wanted wear only on parts that get 'hit' with everything assembled. It is not like trying to wear through 'normal' anodizing, it is more like sanding paint off metal. The black is actually very soft, it started to rub off when I drove the trigger guard roll pin in. I'm guessing this is a flawed finish or is the cheapest / fastest / easiest thing they could do to rush these rifles out of the factory. Here is part of an older post: I hit it with an oil soaked piece of scotch-brite pad but it was way too aggressive. I ended up using Mothers aluminum wheel polish and paper towels. After taking most of the black off I rubbed a clean paper towel over the "hidden" black areas to get the "fuzz" off and the finish polishes to a semi-gloss and barely begins to show the bronze underneath. I had put 'sacrificial' parts on the rifle while I did this because I thought I would be scrubbing on the thing for hours but it took much less work than I expected and I don't think there was any collateral damage to those parts. I did have a different upper in a plastic bag mounted on the lower because I didn't want to cause any more wear to the (bronze) upper. I would do the same or at least put your upper in a plastic bag so you don't accidentally rub some of the black off. (I don't know how soft the black is on these uppers, I don't want to 'ruin' mine) I probably spent an hour rubbing on the thing, it only took that long because I was being careful to check my work and not rub too much off. I think you should do this, I think your finished rifle would look really nice. Pics of MacAttack's upper Pic 1 Pic 2 Thread I saw your other post about buffer tubes, I'm not sure what color buffer tube should go in these rifles. I put a black tube in but it just doesn't look right, it looks cheap. Pictures of other non-Colt M16s have a mix of gray and black parts so I'm not sure what is 'correct' for anything. I'm embarrassed to admit I haven't shot it yet, we're still in the middle of our horrible rainy season here and the last time we went shooting a small stream had formed across the trail to get there. Its kinda clear today but I have something else going on today, maybe next weekend. |
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looks good building one myself at Ident getting its logo H&R and off to victor I wasn't sure how this would turn out so I didn't want to spend more money on something that I would end up "screwing up." I might have it engraved later. (They can do that, right?) [/quote] Somebob, the guys at Ident Marking told me they do 90% of their work post-anodizing. They engrave and follow up with "aluma-black" on the lettering that supposedly matches Victor's XM Gray color perfectly. I get NDS A1 lower in about a week...we'll see... Mike Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - H & R barrel / FSB question, cool upper receiver too (+ NDS lower = complete rifle!) (Page 2 of 2)
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