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I am quite new around here, and I didn't realize my question didn't belong. Sorry for the bother. |
Stainless steel galls and the sear is cut with a sanding wheel on a dremel tool. Soft hammer spring means lously lock time to the point where AR10 ignition is compromised. Terrible reliability. Some can be set up ok and others are a bad joke. You either get one that works and you love it, or you get one that doesnt and you hate them. I've been lucky, and mine gets me tape on my trigger guard every time  My only problem has been when really really cold, it wont work if it has any oil on it. I like mine in my match rifle, but i would never put one in my carbine. |
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Great post. I was just about to ask if anyone here is using the RRA 2 stage set-up and here is a fine trigger post. So who has the better parts for the C note you're gonna spend on a 2 stage trigger? I see the RRA for $88.00 and others around $125.00? Just wondering. Thanks for giving up the time to post and respond in this thread bigbore. 300m |
Thanks. This would be for a match rifle. I'll still consider a Jewell, but obviously I'll think about shelling out for the block removal. |
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Hello, everyone, I'm new to the board and have a few questions I will attempt to post in the proper places, here's my first... I have several 2 stage triggers in my AR's that were sold by Armalite (5-6 years ago), I have been out of the scene since then and have yet to fire them. How is the quality, reliability, etc. ? I don't see them being discussed, I take it they are no longer produced? Thanks in advance, HB |
| Good triggers, as are tuned Rock Rivers. Armalite changed the geometry of their two-stage triggers last year or the year before, and I have no recent experience. Oregon Army National Guard Sergeant Alan S. shot his for 10,000 (three barrels) rounds before it needed change-out. |
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My thoughts exactly Heres an Armalite trigger I took from an AR10 today 
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That's a real easy fix, I'll post pics tonight with details. |
If you can see the yellow dash in the picture, where the disconnector hits the disconnector stop - thats your problem. That is where the sear engagement is set for the second stage of the trigger. If there is too much, the trigger will have a bunch of creep, not enough - you have a single stage trigger. Remove the trigger and clamp it in a vise by the trigger. Roll or cut a piece of emory cloth, and work it between the disconnector and where it hits the stop, with the course side on the disconnector. As you remove material, you are adding sear engagement and will again have a 2 stage trigger. If you have jewelers file that will fit in there, it will work too.  
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Have a Armalite NM trigger, Two months ago had to send the rifle back, the gun was shooting full auto, about 200 rounds on the gun, trigger not adjusted!!!. Armalite changed the trigger, report was the disconnector spring was weak. all new trigger parts. New trigger feels smoother that the first one, first one was just getting smooth, wearing the grittyness off the first stage. Now I understand how the trigger work, thanks!! |
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Great info BigBore! I hope there won't be a test though. I am in the market for a better trigger than just comes with the standard lower parts kit. What would be nice for those of us who haven't used two stage vs quality one stage vs crappy regular issued single stage trigger is some information on the "pull" weights of the various triggers mentioned. What is the pull weight of a Chip M singe stage vs the double stage etc. The only way I can tell the extremes is between a standard issue single stage vs my wife's S&W 38 with the hammer cocked. To me, the s&w is too light, if looked at as a single stage for my carbine. Not sure if I'm making sense, but without some actual hands on dry firing of various triggers, it's hard to know where to drop some hard earned cash........I want to get it right the first time!! 
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| Here's a question. What do you do with the single stage trigger parts that come with your LPK? Seems like a waste of money to keep buying full LPKs when you are never going to install the stock trigger parts, trigger pins and grip. It'd be handy if the LPK manufacturers would start selling minimalist LPKs. |
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I need some advice here. I just got an RRA 2 stage trigger and KNS .154 pins. When it got here the trigger (which said clearly it was for .154 in the Brownells catalogue) says it wants .156 pins. I went ahead and put it together with the KNS pins and it seems prety tight and went through all the checks RRA advised without any problems. Will it damage the rifle or trigger group to use it this way? If so I will take it out and return it. It is a valuable unused preban lower and I don't want to be driving oversized pins into the very snug pin holes. Thanks, Josh aka knifemaker02 |
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For me, one of the most important aspects of trigger pull is that it must be smooth - no grittyness anywhere along the squeeze. I like 2 stage better than one stage but if the pull is like silk it doesn't make that much difference. I would appreciate the experts comments on the best place to "polish" the contact points on trigger systems. Also if you would, give us your thoughts on the best polishing agents to use. I was at a gun shop yesterday and handled a chrome 357 python ($1800). My God, every movement was like silk right up to and including when the hammer bottomed out. It was Fabulous. On my way home it made me want to polish every point where to pieces of metal slide on one another on one of my weapons. |
| lawndart, I bought & sacrificed a $20 "80%" receiver from one of the guys in the DIY forum. Somehow he got the buffer threads a few degrees off (but he got the holes perfect), so it was useless a working receiver anyway. Those guys are always screwing-up receivers, just let it be known in there (or in EE/WTB) when you want one. |
It's still tacked. Click on the "IMPORTANT THREADS AND INFO" thread started by 1GUNRUNNER. Scroll down a little, and you'll see the link to this thread. I think that was done so that there wouldnt be a zillion tacked threads at the top of the forum. |
Just a few questions for you guys regarding a used KAC 2-stage trigger set I just purchased. First off, after reviewing the pictures at the beginning I noticed that my trigger return spring does not look anything like the one in the photo or even from KAC's website for that matter.  This is a picture of mine, it lacks the bends as shown in bigbores picture. Second question: My set did not come with two adjustable set screws. Mine only has the weight adjustment screw and is lacking the sear adjustment screw. Does this mean that it is a different trigger set than their standard 2-stage?  Here is a pic of my set showing the lack of the second screw adjustment.  Here is a pic of the entire set I puchased. Excuse all my questions, I am new to the 2-stage trigger systems. Thanks for any info on this set I have, B. Brewer |
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Well I found out the springs included are infact aftermarket. That mystery is solved. Does anyone know why my set only has the one adj. screw? Also, anyone know where I can get a set of original factory springs for this set. I have it installed an it does break very crisp with a smooth first stage but the hammer strike seems a little weak (most likely due to the weaker after market springs). I haven't taken it to the range yet so I don't know if I will get light hammer strikes or not. Thanks for any help guys, 
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