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1/6/2018 11:21:22 PM EDT
I have owned this gun for quite some time and have decided to remove the basic barrel nut so i can attach a tapco muzzle break. Upon inspecting it i noticed the welds have already been cut and the pin and spring are missing. So i proceeded to take a wrench to it (i understand the threads are reversed) and the nut just twists in place (not smoothly) and will not come off. It does this turning it both ways. The only thing i can think of other than it being stripped is the guns from CT and they have had some pretty crazy gun laws over the last few years. One of which was "assault rifle" type guns could only have so many "evil baby killer" components before they were considered illegal. For obvious reasons people wanted pistol grips and detachable mags so the bayonet lugs were removed and stocks were fixed. I believe the flash hiders/suppressors etc. were another item that had to be pinned or welded for it not to count. I know its been modified because the bayonet lug is chopped off. I just don't understand if it can spin then why is it not coming off?
1/7/2018 7:45:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dfariswheel][Edited] [#1]
Possibly there's a pin you don't see and it's in a groove.
Many/most of the CUR2 and MKII rifles had NO threads under the cap.  Most of the caps were welded but who knows what may have been done.
If you're not the first owner, possibly someone tried to twist it off and instead gouged a rough groove in the barrel under the cap and that's why rotation is rough.

I'd just cut to the chase and cut the nut off.
Use a Dremel cut off wheel and cut both sides until you can use a tool to spread and separate them and remove from the barrel.
Then you can see what the situation is.
1/7/2018 8:35:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Well i kinda feel dumb. I got it off with a screwdriver and leverage and as you said it was never threaded. Just on there really tight haha. Now the problem is the new Tapco AK74 muzzle device i got can slide on over the unthreaded muzzle and feels kinda loose. If i thread the barrel i'm thinking it wont catch the threads. I know sometimes muzzle devices are loose after attaching them so is that the case or is there a specific type of muzzle break i should be looking for?
1/7/2018 8:40:33 PM EDT
[#3]
If it's sliding on prior to being threaded that means that it's too small of a diameter for the standard 14-1L thread and muzzle devices. Measure it, as there may be enough there to thread it 1/2-28.
"Nothing says 'come to my tree stand for a good cornholing' more than a Browning Buckmark sticker on your oversized truck." - dport

"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.
1/7/2018 8:58:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah that's looking like the case. Already found a $10 1/2 classic ak slant break that should work. Now i just need to thread the barrel. Thanks for the help on figuring this out.
1/28/2018 10:25:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1MRBEAN][Edited] [#5]
Check this out, 22 mm Romanian front site base and muzzle device here.Verify barrel journal size for the front site base.

http://armsofamerica.com/ak74sparereplacementparts.aspx
5/6/2019 6:19:16 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Originally Posted By 1MRBEAN:
Check this out, 22 mm Romanian front site base and muzzle device here.Verify barrel journal size for the front site base.

http://armsofamerica.com/ak74sparereplacementparts.aspx
View Quote
I'd grab the FSB and do it right. When I debanned my SAR-2, I got the last one Kvar had at the time. They have been hard to find for a while. Butler at AK103 used to make a nice chrome lined brake just for this application in 22mm.

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