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Posted: 7/5/2019 8:45:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Capt_Destro][Edited]
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Hi
I have a Romanian RH10 The handguard retainer has some wiggle (forward and back). The lever moves with ease. I'm wondering if the lever is too small for the hole that was drilled. Is it worth installing a new retaining lever, maybe a polish one would be a little bigger tolerance wise? On multiple handguards there is up to down play on the bottom handguard (It slips out ever so slightly from the retainer if upward pressure is put on the handguard). The only time I get a really tight lock up is if my upper handguard is pressing on the lower, or if the handguard is over sized to begin with (Magpul AK for example, or a TDI lower handguard with the khyber cheese gratter). If I shim it, it takes a considerable amount to get it tight. Honestly if my retainer had folded edges this wouldn't really be an issue. Just looking for ideas before I go to a clamp on, or go with a Zhukov. |
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This section seems dead. But I replaced the retaining lever with a polish one. Still having the same issue. I'm starting to think the channel that was cut into the barrel might be slightly over sized. Can anyone bounce some ideas toward me? For now I guess I'm going to stick with the Magpul 2 piece handguards. |
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| Yes, the barrel channel is more than likely oversized. You can either weld the channel with tig, fill it with hard silver braze, replace the handguard retainer with a bolt-on version, or replace the barrel. |
"Nothing says 'come to my tree stand for a good cornholing' more than a Browning Buckmark sticker on your oversized truck." - dport
"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.
"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.
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Originally Posted By AEnemaBay:
Yes, the barrel channel is more than likely oversized. You can either weld the channel with tig, fill it with hard silver braze, replace the handguard retainer with a bolt-on version, or replace the barrel. If I re-barrel this thing I'm going to shoot the crap out of the old one first. 
if I cut the retainer I'd probably just pony up the cash for a SLR handguard. Thanks |
No, my name is not a reference to enemas.
Joined:
Jan 2007
Posts:
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| Something else you could try is to peen the edge of the channel so that it would put more pressure to the rear towards the handguard. I've never tried this, but can't immediately why it wouldn't work. |
"Nothing says 'come to my tree stand for a good cornholing' more than a Browning Buckmark sticker on your oversized truck." - dport
"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.
"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.
|
Originally Posted By AEnemaBay:
Something else you could try is to peen the edge of the channel so that it would put more pressure to the rear towards the handguard. I've never tried this, but can't immediately why it wouldn't work. Might give it a try. Also just ordered a troy rail on sale, looks like the front retainer can have adjustments when installing. |
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Just documenting this for anyone with a similar problem.
- A Roll Pin will provide a really tight lock up for those using traditional handguards. If using anything extended it would become a blind pin and I would not suggest using this unless you want to make the handguard on it permanent, or if you want to drill out a roll pin every time. Honestly I'd rather have a roll pin instead of a retaining lever but that is just me. Here is the approach I'm taking. I don't have the means to silver sodder/weld. 
It is able to withstand continuous heat exposure of 400ºF and intermittent heat exposure to 550ºF  But I don't see this as a huge deal/altercation. More or less using it as a filler/shim to tighten up the retaining channel. I would not recommend using this for other other applications on firearms.Was watching some AKOU videos. After 3 magazine dumps the temperature range was about: Gas Block Temp: 325 Degrees Muzzle Brake: 400 Degrees Railed Gas Tube: 150 degrees An AR15 after a 150 round dump was close to 550 degrees. I'm thinking this would be fine for my purposes. I believe the RH10 has a pencil barrel of sorts. So i don't see myself doing mag dumps through it. 
I used a center punch to peen the channel in a few spots, and hit it with some high grit sand paper. Wiped it down with alcohol wipe, used non chlorinated break cleaner to further degrease the area, Basically I filled in the channel with high temperature putty. I plan on letting it cure, and I'll file it little by little until it fights nice and tight with the retainer. Will update tomorrow, takes 8 hours to cure but I'll give it 24. Also in a sense it is reversible if it came down to it. (how is it reversible? with a file and a steady hand.) Edit: The JB weld did not work. Maybe I mixed it wrong, but it did not adhere to the barrel. Oh well. |
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