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If the piston is a 922r part they didn't come drilled for the pin, so it's possible whoever assembled that one didn't take the time to do it right. |
Tennessee Squire
Team Ranstad
NRA Life Member (no longer financially supporting)
Team Ranstad
NRA Life Member (no longer financially supporting)
| Somebody skipped a step. |
I suppose it is possible to convey more ignorance with less words, but I doubt I will ever see it in my lifetime.--Bohr Adam
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117
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The job is to screw in the gas piston, then back it off about 1/2 turn. Don't screw it in tight. Then precision drill the hole through the piston. The hole in the piston should be slightly larger then the hole in the bolt carrier. Use a Dremel carbide ball cutter or a countersink, to grind or cut a shallow countersink on each side of the hole in the carrier. Insert a common nail or any other correct size mild steel that's a snug fit in the holes in the bolt carrier, but slightly smaller then the hole in the piston. Use a ball peen hammer to rivet both sides of the pin, making sure the riveted ends flow into the countersunk holes in the carrier. Grind/file the excess rivet off on both sides flush with the sides of the carrier. Apply paint to the carrier to finish the job. The countersunk hole on each side gives the rivet room to flow down below the surface of the carrier. That way when the excess is ground off enough rivet remains to secure the pin. Once riveted the gas pistol should have slight movement or wobble to allow the piston to self-align with the gas block. The only difficulty is making certain the drill doesn't drift and go through the piston crooked. If you're not sure on this, most any machine shop can do it for you easily. |
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: The job is to screw in the gas piston, then back it off about 1/2 turn. Don't screw it in tight. Then precision drill the hole through the piston. The hole in the piston should be slightly larger then the hole in the bolt carrier. Use a Dremel carbide ball cutter or a countersink, to grind or cut a shallow countersink on each side of the hole in the follower. Insert a common nail or any other correct size mild steel that's a snug fit in the holes in the bolt carrier, but slightly smaller then the hole in the piston. Use a ball peen hammer to rivet both sides of the pin, making sure the riveted ends flow into the countersunk holes in the carrier. Grind/file the excess rivet off on both sides flush with the sides of the carrier. Apply paint to the carrier to finish the job. The countersunk hole on each side gives the rivet room to flow down below the surface of the carrier. That way when the excess is ground off enough rivet remains to secure the pin. Once riveted the gas pistol should have slight movement or wobble to allow the piston to self-align with the gas block. The only difficulty is making certain the drill doesn't drift and go through the piston crooked. If you're not sure on this, most any machine shop can do it for you easily. Thank you for taking the time to explain all of that. |
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Originally Posted By WarDawg: The common statements for belief is there should be wiggle and movement. But Pin it and have fun I say crank it hand tight and drill and pin. It will loosen up a stosh and end up about right. |
I suppose it is possible to convey more ignorance with less words, but I doubt I will ever see it in my lifetime.--Bohr Adam
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117
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drill and pin. If that’s not your bag use Rockset and crank that boss down as hard as you possibly can. Rockset has much better heat resistance than locktite
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Rikki-tiki Tavi there’s snakes in the grass so we’d better go hunting
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Get one of these https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/517990C And it should look like this ] [/url]
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Originally Posted By MallNinja531: Now that I think about it, I don't believe my wasr piston is pinned either. I've shot it that way for years. Guess I found my next little project. On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. |
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Originally Posted By giantpune: On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. Originally Posted By giantpune: Originally Posted By MallNinja531: Now that I think about it, I don't believe my wasr piston is pinned either. I've shot it that way for years. Guess I found my next little project. On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. This is the way. |
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