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Anyone running a FRT? Let’s discuss. (Page 4 of 4)
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| The video i recommended is a bit long but it is very detailed and should help anyone having problems with a V1 type kit get their rifle running flawlessly. And to that note, she lives and runs flawlessly. My rifle is finally as it should be. If you have a Mars V1 kit or any of the clones, please don't make the same mistake I did. Don't grind down any of the parts to make them fit unless you're correcting the issues the video shows being corrected. If you did grind down your cam, like this dumbass did, they are available separately from Mars triggers. Have fun y'all. |
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4 pages of comments and not a single picture of a functional setup. A nice “before & after” of the necessary modifications would do wonders for the community and DIY’ers trying to make a FRT function reliably in AK type receivers. I’m trying to find information on the KONO frt in a micro draco. I’ve done some sanding and filing but I’m not EXACTLY sure what is supposed to be contacting, not contacting, barely contacting and the timing on each end of the trigger. Some help and guidance would be NICE. I can take pics and/ or videos to show where I’m at if someone with success or a depth of knowledge can tell me how far I’m off and where I need to be. Please reach out. I do have a bit of understanding so it shouldn’t be a hard case. Thank you! Joe |
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It is a pain, and it has taken me fitting to 3 different AKs before I felt like I actually have an idea. It also depends on the FRT you but too. The one im using has a bar that rides in the receiver and trips the cam on the safety when it is completely in battery. The cam also has to be moved by the trigger, and on mine the edge of the left side of the trigger needs to be shaved down in an arc. The template that came with ki e was nowhere near what my rifle needed and required a lot of fitting. Even the cam required shaving down before I got it to function properly. Each AK I have done has been completely different too. |
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The kono setup that I’m working with has an awkward little cam but a wire instead of a bar. I’m not sure if the wire is the correct length and how much contact the cam should have with the trigger. I can say that the cam is NOT moving freely as it’s sandwiched against the retainer plate. I’m thinking the cam should be allowed more movement but still unsure about the contact with the cam and trigger bar. I have rounded the trigger bar for the interface with the cam but I’m not sure how much I’m supposed to take off and if the cam is supposed to ride completely over the trigger. I’m afraid if I file off too much more then the cam won’t be contacting anything. I did file some off of the sear so that the trigger would clear because that was an issue. What I’ve found is I could at least get intermittent bursts out of the system at first but the more I took off left me with a single shot and the dead hammer with a live round in the chamber. So the hammer is definitely following the bolt. I’m wondering why I went from bursts to single shots thinking I was working toward progress. At this point I’m looking to shave the cam down to free up movement and then see how the wire works on the cam because right now I’m not getting any movement from the cam at all. Something isn’t right but I’m kind of at a loss. I was doing this as a side job and apparently I got stuck with the hardest of chores with the FRT in a micro draco. But I’m in it now. Maybe have to start over with a new trigger but I’m not backing out - I want my money and a working product to get that money |
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Saw this old thread get bumped up and re-read it, been working on the dang AK FRT for over a year now. Time sure flies… Managed to get a Mars V2, which was supposed to be for milled receiver guns. Did not fit in a few I tried- but it does fit an a Chinese MAK-90 (stamped), I think due to the heavier receiver. (Been a while, I don’t remember the full details on why it fits which gun anymore). It works 100%, but it absolutely sucks to shoot! That particular gun is not threaded so there is no slant brake, and the trigger reset is seriously painful. It just sucks to shoot. I did the work to convert and rebuild an actual FA AK for another SOT, and that gun was a pleasure to shoot in auto. So the trigger reset and lack of a slant brake make a big difference. The FA AK also had a rate reducer that I added, not sure if it made a difference on how it felt. So yeah the Mars V2 works great- but the trigger movement distance is just way too much. My original AK Super Safety is still just cobbled together in a WASR, and I never finished testing it, it never ran well and the trigger reset was terrible as well. Just got tired of working on it, and when the end result is not too fun to shoot… Need to see what I can do to reduce the trigger reset pain, and thread that MAK-90. Might make it less terrible. At least it does function. But compared to an AR, it is kind of crummy to shoot. If I can make it a little more tolerable for my arthritic fingers, I will drop it into an NHM-91 probably. I had some thoughts on making an over travel stop to help with the trigger reset issue, I should revisit that. Best hope on the AK front in my opinion is that someone decides to take a clean sheet approach to the problem and comes up with a different idea, starting with a trigger and hammer combination that does not require a long trigger pull to work. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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first - I think Atrius Development is going to announce several new FRTs that are better drop-in ish solutions and one will be for the "AK" https://atrius.dev/atrius-forced-reset-selector/ They sent an early announcement to dealers of new models coming an AK is one, the others are Stribog and AUG. Secondly, The problem is AKs are all over the place for dimensions and very few people post instructions or videos are removed. I have done two. 1) PSA AK104 SBR with a MARS V2 that took some tweaking and runs well. 2) A Polish Beryl "Krink" in 5.56 with Texas triggers that literally dropped in and worked immediately. A note that at first I tried a MARS Beryl setup that did not work at all in the Beryl and sort of gave up on. Disappointed with that one. from MARS. I think Beryls work better because it is one of the few AKs made to tight tolerances between manufactured guns. |
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I had originally installed the kono FRT parts with the original trigger group in the micro draco. I picked up a tapco trigger group from a classified ad and met with a guy about 20 minutes from my house. The tapco trigger group took quite a bit of filing inside the trigger show to accept the FRT disconnector but once finished and everything installed I have found that the tapco branded trigger group now interacts differently with the FRT parts. The hammer no longer follows the bolt carrier like it was before on the original Draco trigger. This has to do with the legs of the main trigger shoe and where the FRT cam rides over and holds the trigger down to keep the hammer hooked on the sear. That’s as far as I’ve got. Will record some video and send off to be reviewed by the gunsmith. Hope to test it out and make modifications in the next day or 2. |
Anyone running a FRT? Let’s discuss. (Page 4 of 4)
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