User Panel
By: Omar
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Prep the front sight to receive the 1200 degree silver solder. We've found a letter from ATF on their web sight saying the ROMANIAN rifles need not have a permanently affixed brake, since no flash suppressor has been made for its unique 22mm diameter thread. If some meathead does manufacture one, the Romys will have to get soldered. save yourself some grief and do it to be safe.
You MUST grind the bayonet lug "ears" off the sight. This is not negotiable. It is ILLEGAL to retain them.
Here's a picture of the ground down ears. You don't have to remove material from the bottom of the lug, just the ears. The remainder of the lug will help keep your cleaning rod from launching down range when you fire your rifle! Screw on the compensator until it catches the comp catch pin. you can also clearly see the new dowel pins.
The recessed slot should be in the position indicated. At this point you should solder the brake on. I couldn't get the rifle hot enough with "MAPP" gas to solder, so next week I'll break out the acetylene! I reassembled the rifle at this point.
Here's a picture of the finished rifle. The sight is discolored from heat. This is the first rifle that I've ever performed work on, and it came out OK, in my opinion. If you take your time when doing this procedure, yours will, too!
[Omar commented later on the canted Gas Block: "....In the process of installing a threaded Romanian sight on a SAR-2 last weekend, I noticed my gas block was crooked. I took a center punch and tapped the pins out from left to right, (as if the rifle was shouldered/looking down the barrel). I then tapped the block over with a rubber mallet eyeballed the alignment, and tapped the pins back in. It took about five minutes..."]
[Omar commented later on cost effectiveness of "Do it yourself" installation versus "Gunsmith option" : "That depends whether or not you have the tools. It will not be cost effective to buy the tools and do it yourself for one rifle. A smith will probably charge about $40.00, and that is very reasonable. I'm probably going to do five or six rifles, but I'm in no way or shape remotely close to being a gunsmith, and wouldn't want to mess up someone else's rifle. Besides, my day job keeps me on the move throughout most of the US. I'm almost done annotating the instruction set. I couldn't get the barrel hot enough with "MAPP" gas, so I'm headed for Oxy-acetylene next week. It wasn't too hard to do, you just have to take your time. I spent most of my time setting the camera up for the photos."]
Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4
Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4
Prep the front sight to receive the 1200 degree silver solder. We've found a letter from ATF on their web sight saying the ROMANIAN rifles need not have a permanently affixed brake, since no flash suppressor has been made for its unique 22mm diameter thread. If some meathead does manufacture one, the Romys will have to get soldered. save yourself some grief and do it to be safe.
You MUST grind the bayonet lug "ears" off the sight. This is not negotiable. It is ILLEGAL to retain them.
Here's a picture of the ground down ears. You don't have to remove material from the bottom of the lug, just the ears. The remainder of the lug will help keep your cleaning rod from launching down range when you fire your rifle! Screw on the compensator until it catches the comp catch pin. you can also clearly see the new dowel pins.
The recessed slot should be in the position indicated. At this point you should solder the brake on. I couldn't get the rifle hot enough with "MAPP" gas to solder, so next week I'll break out the acetylene! I reassembled the rifle at this point.
Here's a picture of the finished rifle. The sight is discolored from heat. This is the first rifle that I've ever performed work on, and it came out OK, in my opinion. If you take your time when doing this procedure, yours will, too!
[Omar commented later on the canted Gas Block: "....In the process of installing a threaded Romanian sight on a SAR-2 last weekend, I noticed my gas block was crooked. I took a center punch and tapped the pins out from left to right, (as if the rifle was shouldered/looking down the barrel). I then tapped the block over with a rubber mallet eyeballed the alignment, and tapped the pins back in. It took about five minutes..."]
[Omar commented later on cost effectiveness of "Do it yourself" installation versus "Gunsmith option" : "That depends whether or not you have the tools. It will not be cost effective to buy the tools and do it yourself for one rifle. A smith will probably charge about $40.00, and that is very reasonable. I'm probably going to do five or six rifles, but I'm in no way or shape remotely close to being a gunsmith, and wouldn't want to mess up someone else's rifle. Besides, my day job keeps me on the move throughout most of the US. I'm almost done annotating the instruction set. I couldn't get the barrel hot enough with "MAPP" gas, so I'm headed for Oxy-acetylene next week. It wasn't too hard to do, you just have to take your time. I spent most of my time setting the camera up for the photos."]
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