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Posted: 7/11/2010 3:07:33 PM EDT
Hello there.

My Form 1 Individual is pending and I am waiting for it to order and put together  my DD 10.3" SBR.  As this will bemy only firearm in the home (for now), it will be my home defense weapon.  i will be using Hornady TAP FPD, either 62 or 75 grain.  I would prefere 5.56, but .223 is what I am sure I will be using.  I will be running an EOTech 511 and MagPaul BUIS (For now).  

My question is, at what range is opimal to zero my SBR.  Will it be the standard 50yrd zero or is there another route I should be using?

Thanks!
Link Posted: 7/11/2010 3:43:43 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd stick with the 25 or 50 yard zero, even for a HD rifle. Just remember at point blank range it will shoot a couple inches lower than where you're aiming, due to the height difference from sights to barrel.

Even us cops sight in our patrol rifles at 50 yards.
Link Posted: 7/11/2010 6:07:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Good to know and thanks for your reply.
Link Posted: 7/11/2010 6:53:55 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
I'd stick with the 25 or 50 yard zero, even for a HD rifle. Just remember at point blank range it will shoot a couple inches lower than where you're aiming, due to the height difference from sights to barrel.

Even us cops sight in our patrol rifles at 50 yards.


Exactly what he said. My department also uses a 50 yard zero.  Some people go with a 10 yard zero, but would have to hold several yards over to hit at 100 yards.  I'd say go with 50, then try it at different distances.

TH
Link Posted: 7/12/2010 3:37:19 PM EDT
[#4]
What my plan is once my app comes back will be to sight in at 50, then put targets from 5 yards to 25 yards and see exactly what my round is doing.

Is it commonly accepted to put a laser sight on a weapon and sight that in at a close range to aid in a better sight picture?  It seems that that would help in CQB to correct any deviation encountered at close range due to optic and mount differential.  I have a green laser sight (Laserlyte K-15) and if that works Ill keep it, otherwise will sell.
Link Posted: 7/12/2010 8:18:03 PM EDT
[#5]
if that's the primary use, zero it @ 25 yards for poa/poi.
Link Posted: 7/16/2010 10:32:48 AM EDT
[#6]
I'd second the 50 yard zero and then make sure you train remembering your sight offset of 2.5" from the bore at 0-10 yards.  So, if you are aiming for the eyes, your sight or red dot will be at the top of the forehead or scalp.
Link Posted: 7/18/2010 5:49:19 PM EDT
[#7]
I understand and thank you for the responses.  any thoughts on sighting in a laser sight for 0-10 yrds to help in target acquisition?
Link Posted: 7/19/2010 10:03:33 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
I understand and thank you for the responses.  any thoughts on sighting in a laser sight for 0-10 yrds to help in target acquisition?


If you have trained with it and you believe it will help you, then go for it.  If not, it's just an extra "gadget" that will get in the way when you are trying to protect your family after waking up from a deep sleep quite possibly...
Link Posted: 7/19/2010 9:11:55 PM EDT
[#9]
I understand and thanbks again
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 11:55:57 AM EDT
[#10]
if its your HD weapon you need to put a light on it before you put a laser on it.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 12:30:49 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
if its your HD weapon you need to put a light on it before you put a laser on it.


Yup, definitely that.

I keep my multipurpose AR with a 100 yard zero, even for HD purposes. I know the hold-off well, and besides, at that range you can pretty much tell where the impact is going to be at short ranges without sighting.

A laser also might be a disadvantage. It very much depends on the layout of your house/yard/whatever, but the laser shows the bad guy exactly where you are. Even if it's not a visible beam (in the dark it probably will be, especially if it's a green laser), there will be a red dot where it's originating from. If there's dust or gun smoke in the room, the beam will become visible.

Lights have the same problem of course, but they have the advantage of being able to flashblind the bad guy if used right. Whether you go with a laser or a light, I'd recommend using a momentary pressure pad so you can cut off the light quickly if you need to.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 4:33:31 PM EDT
[#12]
I prefer the 100 meter zero for most applications. With the 100 meter zero, you will hit constantly low out to 100 so you only need to recognize one set of hold-offs versus having to know I am low out to X distance then high to X. It is more simple to me. Now if you live in an area where 100+ meter shots are likely, a 200 meter zero might be better for you.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 4:34:57 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
I'd stick with the 25 or 50 yard zero, even for a HD rifle. Just remember at point blank range it will shoot a couple inches lower than where you're aiming, due to the height difference from sights to barrel.

Even us cops sight in our patrol rifles at 50 yards.


Inside of 15 yards, you are looking at the round impacting roughly 2.5" low due to bore-sight relationship.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 1:48:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Good discussion.

I have a surefire weaponlight thats just waiting for the tax stamp (so I can buy the short bbl).  I have an EOTech 511 and just picked up a green laser for giggles.  

The waiting is the hard part!  (Went pending 29 June).
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