Does anyone know a place in the Buffalo or Rochester Area that I can go to get a flash suppresor pinned and welded?

Thanks

Im in Buffalo, and can offer you a quick free TIG welding. IM me if you dont find anything else.

I've just used silver solder paste to comply with NY's asinine AWB - as long as it's got a melting point of 1100F or above, you're good to go...



  - georgestrings

what you gonna install the flash hider on?  

ar15.  I need the barrel to be a compliant length, so I need to get a muzzle brake pinned and welded on.

Quoted: I've just used silver solder paste to comply with NY's asinine AWB - as long as it's got a melting point of 1100F or above, you're good to go...   - georgestrings

Will this pass muster in NJ (simply silver-soldering a MB/thread cap at +1100F, without the whole drill and pin affair)? I'm eyeing some used 20" barrels for my post-ban Oly in NJ and the only thing in the way is A.) money and B.) the lug and threads on the barrels.

Quoted: Quoted: I've just used silver solder paste to comply with NY's asinine AWB - as long as it's got a melting point of 1100F or above, you're good to go...   - georgestrings Will this pass muster in NJ (simply silver-soldering a MB/thread cap at +1100F, without the whole drill and pin affair)? I'm eyeing some used 20" barrels for my post-ban Oly in NJ and the only thing in the way is A.) money and B.) the lug and threads on the barrels.

Many of the Major evil gun MFGs soldered on their brakes during the FED AWB , I'm
pretty sure they sold them in NJ.

As far as the bayo lug , a cutoff wheel - some sandpaper and a spot of paint or bluing
will make you good to go.  

Well that's good to know. At home depot they sell the plumber's kit-$20.00 el cheapo propane torch plus silver solder. I assume that's good enough to solder on a MB?

Quoted: Quoted: I've just used silver solder paste to comply with NY's asinine AWB - as long as it's got a melting point of 1100F or above, you're good to go...   - georgestrings Will this pass muster in NJ (simply silver-soldering a MB/thread cap at +1100F, without the whole drill and pin affair)? I'm eyeing some used 20" barrels for my post-ban Oly in NJ and the only thing in the way is A.) money and B.) the lug and threads on the barrels.

I can't speak for NJ's laws, but the NY AWB mirrors the old '94 ban - and an accepted method using those guidelines is to silver solder it on with a solder that has a melting point of 1100F or greater - which generally will require a minimum of mapp gas or oxy/acetalene type heat to melt... I got mine at a place called Starr Gems, Inc in Tucson, Az - (520)-882-8750... For $13 total, I got a 1oz syringe of their "Easy Paste Solder" - has to be enough to solder on a lifetime of devices, and looks to be handy for some other uses as well....



 - georgestrings

Quoted: Well that's good to know. At home depot they sell the plumber's kit-$20.00 el cheapo propane torch plus silver solder. I assume that's good enough to solder on a MB?

See above post - in NY, it has to be a solder with a minimum melting point of 1100F or above - which will require more than just propane to melt...



  - georgestrings

Quoted: Quoted: Well that's good to know. At home depot they sell the plumber's kit-$20.00 el cheapo propane torch plus silver solder. I assume that's good enough to solder on a MB? See above post - in NY, it has to be a solder with a minimum melting point of 1100F or above - which will require more than just propane to melt...   - georgestrings

How is the law worded that the solder melting temp must be 1100 degrees?

Quoted: How is the law worded that the solder melting temp must be 1100 degrees?

It was an ATF opinion letter that stated welding or 1100 degree silver solder was an acceptable method for attaching a muzzle brake or barrel extension. The whole point of using 1100 silver solder is so it can't be removed with an ordinary propane torch.

www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs/user/wbardwel/public/nfalist/atf_letter40.txt

"A muzzle device, such as a muzzle brake or barrel extension, which
is attached to a barrel by means of welding or high temperature
silver solder having a melting point of at least 1,100 degrees
Fahrenheit, is considered to be part of the barrel for purposes of
measurement.  A seam weld extending at least one-half the
circumference of the barrel or four equidistant tack welds around
the circumference of the barrel are adequate for this purpose.

A firearm having a muzzle brake, cap, or barrel extension
permanently attached by those same methods to cover the threads on
a barrel, would not be considered to have a threaded muzzle.
Please note, however, that any muzzle device or barrel extension
which functions as a flash suppressor or grenade launcher would
still constitute one of the qualifying features of a semiautomatic
assault weapon as that term is defined in 18 U.S.C. section
921(a)(30(B).  Industrial adhesive products are not an acceptable
method for permanently attaching a muzzle device."

What is the preferred type of equipment to weld a MB onto a barrel using 1100F silver solder?

Quoted: What is the preferred type of equipment to weld a MB onto a barrel using 1100F silver solder?

Well, what I did was wire brush the threads, and degrease them real good with rubbing alcohol - then I smeared a good amount of the silver solder paste on the threads, tightened down the device(timing it properly along the way) - and heated it up 'til it was red/orange in the area of the threads.... I then let it air cool, sanded it with 600grit, then gave it a finish... As for the heat source, I've used both mapp gas and oxy/acetalene with good results, but if you use oxy/acetalene, keep the flame down, and move it around  - you don't want to damage anything... Some people have used a type of heatsink paste in the bore, and on the rest of the barrel to keep anything that doesn't need to be heated from absorbing heat - but I haven't bothered, and haven't run into any problems as a result... Just use common sense, and you'll do just fine...




- georgestrings

BTW - I DID end up removing one of my silver soldered muzzle devices for a guy in a free state that bought a rifle from me - and although it came back off after being installed as mentioned above - it WAS on there pretty good... I had to heat it(the device) up red/orange again, and turn it back off before the solder set back up again - and it didn't want to unthread all that easily - it came off, though - and after a little wire wheeling the threads, and a fresh finish, you couldn't tell it had ever been done...



  - georgestrings

The ATF calls it "silver solder" but it is actually brazing with a silver alloy. BernzOmatic  makes an inexpensive MAPP/OXY torch that should work very well for this type of brazing. Just make sure you use a silver/alloy designed for brazing ferrous metals. I would also practice brazing on some scrap steel first.

I would also practice brazing on some scrap steel first.

*that* goes without saying. Thanks for the link, rkabar.