I made a separation in dealers because you specifically asked for Fairbanks. As long as they are in the state and can ship directly to you I don't think it makes a difference but some people are in the bush where they cannot get their firearms shipped to.
I strongly recommend you get separate cans and that the rimfire can have the ability to be disassembled. Rimfire is very, very dirty and builds up lead as well as fouling. It's very difficult to remove lead chemically and though you can run .223 through the can and heat it up, blowing out much of the lead, I find that depending on the design some of the lead will remain in the baffles, some worse than others. If you have so much lead that it gets in the path of the bullet you are probably going to experience a baffle/endcap strike, damaging your can.
For a .22 rimfire, I went with an SRT Commache. I need a can capable of full auto. It disassembles with the baffle stack kept in one piece making it easier to remove and install, especially when there is lead build up (I don't have to knock out each baffle separately). It's small enough that it may be used on a pistol. My partner Bob Klauka still has it (I haven't had it transfered yet) and he can demo it to you if you like, it's threaded the same as an AR (1/2x28 IRRC). I intend to use it on my full auto rimfire upper and a M11 rimfire conversion.
I think you will really enjoy a rimfire can more. It really is quiet. Shooting the .223 suppressed just takes away the boom but leaving the sonic crack as you remember, as well as blasting your face with gas. Of course by all means - get a .223 can! But people seem much more impressed with a rimfire can.
You can use the .223 can for rimfire, but don't go too many rounds before cleaning it, and try to blow out the lead by heating up the can with .223 (after checking the baffles for lead obstructions) often. With some manufacturers you can send the can back to for complete cleaning but there is the cost of shipping as well as the hassle.