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Posted: 12/25/2006 8:55:56 PM EDT
I am going to get into .22 rifle competitions soon. im going to get a ruger 10/22 and was wondering what would be the best to go with, and any tips on accessories for it (stocks, mounts, scopes, etc) for competition shooting would be helpful. thanks in advance.

                                                                                                       Matt
Link Posted: 12/26/2006 6:13:42 AM EDT
[#1]
What kind of "competition"?

Silhouette?  Smallbore?  Sportsman's Team Challenge?  Informal plinking of animal crackers and Neco wafers at 100yards with friends?

In the first two types of events a 10/22 will not be the best rifle choice.  In the latter two, it will be.
Link Posted: 12/26/2006 5:07:40 PM EDT
[#2]
I've got a ruger 10/22 with a 22" stainless barrel for sale if interested...its nearly brand new.
Link Posted: 12/27/2006 6:45:15 AM EDT
[#3]
Careful, you can dump a lot of money into a 10/22.  I've got LOTS of money invested in one of mine.  Heck, it only has the receiver and bolt body left.  Its a tackdriver, but for whats invested, I probably could have bought a different stock .22 thats just as accurate.
Link Posted: 12/27/2006 10:36:38 AM EDT
[#4]
www.rimfirecentral.com  

Everything you could possibly imagine about 10/22's is on that site as well as links to products and accessories.  
Link Posted: 12/28/2006 5:01:09 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
I am going to get into .22 rifle competitions soon. im going to get a ruger 10/22 and was wondering what would be the best to go with, and any tips on accessories for it (stocks, mounts, scopes, etc) for competition shooting would be helpful. thanks in advance.

                                                                                                       Matt


Matt, as Eric asked what group are you going to compete in? First, an autoloader will not compete against a bolt action. I used to compete in a sport called ARA (American Rimfire Assoc.) This was a take off of the old BR-50. In a nutshell this game is played by shooting at 25 targets at 50 yrds. Each target has a bull of .5" then another ring 1/8" bigger and another 1/8" bigger ring and a finial ring 1/4" bigger (this is from memory). Scoring is 100 then 50 then 25 and then 10 and then 0.
But the real test is that if you put 99% of the bullet in the bulls eye but you break the line, then it is scored to the lower value. In this case it is scored as 50.
Everyone uses wind flags to help determine where to shoot on the target to place the bullet in the bulls eye. You will not see one autoloader on the line.

Goto www.benchrest.com  then go to the rimfire section. There are about 5 different icons for the different shoot disaplines. Click on them and you can find out more about their game. Also there is a forums section that you can read and get involved and learn.

Good luck, oh btw most are shooting ammo that cost about 10 bucks for 50 rounds. Reason I got out of it. Ammo cost going up, but quality going down. Piss on the sport. Now hand loading my .223 and can control some of the quality issues myself.
Link Posted: 12/28/2006 6:24:26 AM EDT
[#6]
What Max said.

I have a 10/22 with a few bells & whistles, and will be further belling & whistling it as funds allow.  It shoots all kinds of ammo into 3/4" or a little less at 50m.  I also have a box stock CZ452 .22lr bolt action rifle that will put some brands of high dollar fancy imported target ammo into 1/2" or less at 50m.

How accurate do you want to be?  How much do you want to spend?  What game do you want to play?  These are the questions you must decide upon before just willy-nilly buying parts or guns.
Link Posted: 12/29/2006 7:57:17 AM EDT
[#7]
Had one of these haunting me at the shop a while back . . .

http://www.kimberamerica.com/rifles/kimber1722/svt.php

I really wish I could have justified it, but I really could not.

If you have never felt a Kimber Rifle trigger, you are missing out. From the factory they are very nice. I am sure the gun would shoot better than I, but that really does not matter now does it :-)

Steve
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 6:27:43 AM EDT
[#8]
Kimber .22s are VERY nice.  Too nice ($$$) for me.  I can fully trick out my 10/22, have my CZ452, buy another CZ452 and then buy a couple more .22 pistols for the same or less money.

My CZ trigger is so light that the first dozen or so times I touched the trigger with my stubby calloused fingers it fired (empty chamber of course) without even realizing my finger was already on the trigger.  It was seriously the lightest trigger I have ever felt.  I don't know if the previous owner tweaked it at all, since the gun is marketed as a silhouette gun (CZ452 Silhouette model) but it is wayyyy too light for anything beyond pure target work from the bench.

Eventually, after firing hundreds of rounds though it, I can actually feel both stages of the trigger.  I need to get a pull weight scale on it as I'd bet good money that it's under 1#.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 6:35:08 AM EDT
[#9]
Good trigger on a benchrest rifle will be in the range of just a few ounces. With .22LR rifles, it is the practice of the majority to not even touch the rifle except for the trigger. We would allow the rifle to slide back about 1" in the rest from the recoil. So a very light (hair trigger) was what most had on their rifle. I was able to adjust my varminter in .223 (Bushy) down to about 1 ounce, but I was getting double taps and had to adjust the trigger back up to say .25 lb.
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