Here it is Gonna see him tonight to see what he might want for the camper itself.

Well the camper is in semi good shape.  Stove, fridge, sink and heater all work.  All cushions need to be replaced including the pad for the overhead sleep area.

He is willing to sell the camper by itself for $100.

Now here is the catch.

The camper is for a full size 8' truck bed and my truck bed is too short.  So my question to the various owners of campers or even former owners is:

Is it possible to mount it in the bed of my truck.  Currently it's connected to anchors that slide into the 4 holes on the  corners of the bed with anchor bolts attaching the camper to the truck.  Would I need to use a different securement system and would there be a problem with weight distribution?  

Maybe you should get the truck too for when that Dodge is in the shop.

 Buy both and then sell the truck.  Might make a little on it.

"need to thin the herd" !!!!!

+1 on sell the truck and coming out ahead.

Spend your money on a  canopy and throw a matress in the back of the truck.

I would maybe pick up something like that if I could get it for no more than a $100.00 (dump fee's included).

Quoted: Maybe you should get the truck too for when that Dodge is in the shop.

Quoted:  Buy both and then sell the truck.  Might make a little on it.

I really can't afford both.  You want to chip in?

Quoted: Spend your money on a  canopy and throw a matress in the back of the truck. I would maybe pick up something like that if I could get it for no more than a $100.00 (dump fee's included).

You just cant appreciate something that is well worn in.

Quoted: Quoted:  Buy both and then sell the truck.  Might make a little on it. I really can't afford both.  You want to chip in?

 Only if I prophet from it a lot!

On the other hand, at that price he may not be willing to separate the two.

 Good luck!

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted:  Buy both and then sell the truck.  Might make a little on it. I really can't afford both.  You want to chip in?  Only if I prophet from it a lot! On the other hand, at that price he may not be willing to separate the two.  Good luck!

Maybe I'll have Mrs. Gibby wear something sexy.

Truck + Tannerite + LCR Crabfest + Makers Mark = ............

Quoted: You just cant appreciate something that is well worn in.

This is the part where I make a crack about your sister/mother.

If this'll work, that'll work:

Quoted: The camper is for a full size 8' truck bed and my truck bed is too short.  So my question to the various owners of campers or even former owners is: Is it possible to mount it in the bed of my truck.  Currently it's connected to anchors that slide into the 4 holes on the  corners of the bed with anchor bolts attaching the camper to the truck.  Would I need to use a different securement system and would there be a problem with weight distribution?

I dunno. Is it possible? Yes.


I am far from a camper guru, this is my first one, but here is what I know.


Totally unprepared when I got to the guys house, we closed the deal and loaded it up. No straps nothing, it moved around more than I thought. I went to closest thing on a Sunday evening, a Fred Meyer, and bought the nylon straps with hooks. I put two of them from the rear eyes to the front bed hooks. It was 10000 times more stable, but on the rare occasion I would do a signifigant driveway apron too fast, it would rock in the bed still. Two will do, four would be better.

My camper is 7', my bed is 8'. I can put my tailgate up.

Quoted: I dunno. Is it possible? Yes.

pirate4x4.com

The irony!...

Possible.......Anything is possible.....

You may have to figure out a different way to secure it down than the 4 corner posts. Hard to say without having it in front of me. Mine came with these funky things that hang off the side rails of my bed that the camper attaches to.

Ok, I can't stay out of this any longer.  Former and future Northwet resident here.  
I do have some experience with campers and RVing in general.  I hauled a camper for several years.  I managed an RV park for 5 years and saw everything possible.
Please take the extra time and money to do it right and safe.  Anchor the camper to the frame.  Preferably not through the plywood floor.  I had a 'subframe anchor system' built for the one I had.  I believe at a certain size, it is required by RCW to anchor them to the frame.  Anyone handy with a welder can build a system.  I'm not.  Mine was made from square tubing gusseted at the corner, welded to a plate, bolted to the frame, front and back, at the location of the camper anchors.  The actual anchor point was a separate piece of square tube, with an eyebolt,  that slid into the square tube bolted piece so it was removable and adjustable.  Overkill? Maybe.  
Fastening to the bed will fail.  I saw a brand new camper, still attached to the bed of a new truck, lying in the ditch.  My understanding from the driver was, a strong side wind burst ripped it loose from the bed bolts.  Fortunately only the camper and bed was a total loss not someone's child.  
Do it for the children.
How good is your bed metal?  How strong is your camper floor?  
I IM'd Kooter about his battery setup.  While a very workable system, try to isolate the camper system from the truck system.  Use a 'deep cycle' battery for your campers, they are made to be run dead and recharged.  Automotive batteries are not.  Something as simple as a separate battery and cigarette plugin in the camper.  I had my truck wired, by a friend, through a separate starter solenoid that allowed the camper battery to be charged while driving.  This saves removing the battery for recharging.  When the ignition was off there was no way to drain the truck battery.  BTDT, got the t-shirt.  I waited a long time for a jump start from a wandering Forest Ranger.  
Cost?  I think about $100 for the anchor system, probably $20 worth of material.  I had to buy the second solenoid, about $20, the rest was 'donated'.
I know they are only for the LCR, but as the years go by we like a little more creature comfort and less headaches.  Next thing you know, you will be adding indoor plumbing and running water.  An awning, a shower, a stereo, a heater, a refrigerator, a stove, and so on, much like your infamous BRD.
Just so you won't think I am blowing smoke up your skirt, uhhh kilt, I think Tweak can provide some references for me in this area before you dismiss me as a troll or lurker.  Ask him about motorcycle camping in Yellowstone, sleeping under a tarp stretched over a rope.  This is how we all got started, a tent, a cheap camper for the weekend, a vacation in a camper, etc.  
Good luck kids and happy camping.  
I hope to make an LCR one of these years and will actually be out in your AO the first of February 06.
ETA: Suspension and tires!  Can you carry the weight safely?  A blowout really sux with a camper!

Quoted: I hope to make an LCR one of these years and will actually be out in your AO the first of February 06.

You should bve in vega$ that weekend at SHOT show.

ETA: Suspension and tires!  Can you carry the weight safely?  A blowout really sux with a camper!

You have been lurking if you know about Gibbys tires!

Quoted: Quoted: I hope to make an LCR one of these years and will actually be out in your AO the first of February 06. You should bve in vega$ that weekend at SHOT show. ETA: Suspension and tires!  Can you carry the weight safely?  A blowout really sux with a camper! You have been lurking if you know about Gibbys tires!

Hey!  The front ones are new!!

Quoted: Ok, I can't stay out of this any longer.  Former and future Northwet resident here.   I do have some experience with campers and RVing in general.  I hauled a camper for several years.  I managed an RV park for 5 years and saw everything possible. Please take the extra time and money to do it right and safe.  Anchor the camper to the frame.  Preferably not through the plywood floor.  I had a 'subframe anchor system' built for the one I had.  I believe at a certain size, it is required by RCW to anchor them to the frame.  Anyone handy with a welder can build a system.  I'm not.  Mine was made from square tubing gusseted at the corner, welded to a plate, bolted to the frame, front and back, at the location of the camper anchors.  The actual anchor point was a separate piece of square tube, with an eyebolt,  that slid into the square tube bolted piece so it was removable and adjustable.  Overkill? Maybe.   Fastening to the bed will fail.  I saw a brand new camper, still attached to the bed of a new truck, lying in the ditch.  My understanding from the driver was, a strong side wind burst ripped it loose from the bed bolts.  Fortunately only the camper and bed was a total loss not someone's child.   Do it for the children. How good is your bed metal?  How strong is your camper floor?   I IM'd Kooter about his battery setup.  While a very workable system, try to isolate the camper system from the truck system.  Use a 'deep cycle' battery for your campers, they are made to be run dead and recharged.  Automotive batteries are not.  Something as simple as a separate battery and cigarette plugin in the camper.  I had my truck wired, by a friend, through a separate starter solenoid that allowed the camper battery to be charged while driving.  This saves removing the battery for recharging.  When the ignition was off there was no way to drain the truck battery.  BTDT, got the t-shirt.  I waited a long time for a jump start from a wandering Forest Ranger.   Cost?  I think about $100 for the anchor system, probably $20 worth of material.  I had to buy the second solenoid, about $20, the rest was 'donated'. I know they are only for the LCR, but as the years go by we like a little more creature comfort and less headaches.  Next thing you know, you will be adding indoor plumbing and running water.  An awning, a shower, a stereo, a heater, a refrigerator, a stove, and so on, much like your infamous BRD. Just so you won't think I am blowing smoke up your skirt, uhhh kilt, I think Tweak can provide some references for me in this area before you dismiss me as a troll or lurker.  Ask him about motorcycle camping in Yellowstone, sleeping under a tarp stretched over a rope.  This is how we all got started, a tent, a cheap camper for the weekend, a vacation in a camper, etc.   Good luck kids and happy camping.   I hope to make an LCR one of these years and will actually be out in your AO the first of February 06. ETA: Suspension and tires!  Can you carry the weight safely?  A blowout really sux with a camper!

The truck is 1997 Ram 1500. The rear tires need to be replaced as well as the shocks on all four sides. The camper was maunfactured 1972.   The subfloor, I'm sure would be in poor shape so something like the frame that Cav gave me the link to might work.  

Discuss

Quoted: Quoted:  Only if I prophet from it a lot! Mohammed...Is that you?

No, But I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night either.

 oops

 OK, You have 1997 1/2 ton . So that means you don't have full floating axle's on your rig. So I hope you don't plan on hauling it a lot. That camper looks to be about 8 ft  And older campers are HEAVY! Mine is a 73 8 1/2 ft Conestoga and the thing is 1000 lbs empty. when you load that up with food weapons and ammo. Well it won't take much to severely over load your truck. Springs you can get help for but not your axles. You will likely be putting new bearings and or axles in short order.

 Just my 02.

Quoted:  OK, You have 1997 1/2 ton . So that means you don't have full floating axle's on your rig. So I hope you don't plan on hauling it a lot. That camper looks to be about 8 ft  And older campers are HEAVY! Mine is a 73 8 1/2 ft Conestoga and the thing is 1000 lbs empty. when you load that up with food weapons and ammo. Well it won't take much to severely over load your truck. Springs you can get help for but not your axles. You will likely be putting new bearings and or axles in short order.  Just my 02.

Excellent points.  I would only have it loaded 3 to 4 days at a time.  New bearings and axles are not an option at this point.

Keep looking for a smaller/lighter one...

Dont waste your $$$

Quoted: Quoted:  OK, You have 1997 1/2 ton . So that means you don't have full floating axle's on your rig. So I hope you don't plan on hauling it a lot. That camper looks to be about 8 ft  And older campers are HEAVY! Mine is a 73 8 1/2 ft Conestoga and the thing is 1000 lbs empty. when you load that up with food weapons and ammo. Well it won't take much to severely over load your truck. Springs you can get help for but not your axles. You will likely be putting new bearings and or axles in short order.  Just my 02. Excellent points.  I would only have it loaded 3 to 4 days at a time.  New bearings and axles are not an option at this point.

 No they wouldn't be. That's why most people who haul campers have 3/4 ton trucks. When I was in the market for a truck. I knew I wanted a camper. Everyone I knew used the heavy duty trucks for that very reason. I finally ended up with a 89 F250 4X4. So you might say I bought the truck with a specific use in mind.

 As you have this truck already. You might want to hang on and look for a smaller pop up camper some tend to be a bit lighter. The nicest one I've seen is the 4wheel brand camper the 8 foot one only weighs 750lbs. But they tend to be very expensive even used. But there are others. Look around, And just make sure you look at the Wt. first.

 Good luck.

  Almost forgot , pick up an RV trader. It's a place to start.

So it all comes back to getting a real truck to haul it.


Buy both!

Quoted: Keep looking for a smaller/lighter one... Dont waste your $$$

Amen

Quoted: So it all comes back to getting a real truck to haul it. Buy both!

Maybe I can find a ditch Chevy?

Quoted: Quoted: So it all comes back to getting a real truck to haul it. Buy both! Maybe I can find a ditch Chevy?

What the hell is a ditch Chevy?

Gibby, If you can wait until I find a decent pop up tailer or small travel trailer then I'll sell you my camper. Don't know when that will be though. I want a trailer I can pull behind the Scout.

Doesn't help you for LCR, but it is something to keep in mind.

Gibby, the link CavVet posted is a very nice piece.  I did not look for a price, but I bet it is spendy.  Mine was similar, but built by a local welding shop.
Re: tires, more important than age or wear is load rating.  
You can put on 16.5 tires and rims, overloads and airbags, heavy duty shocks.  You still have the weight on the gears and bearings.  Plus if you get hit by one of those wind bursts out of the canyons or get into a corner just a little over speed, there is not a sway bar around that will keep you on the road.
With a 1500, please find a lighter camper.  The time will be worth it.  It doesn't really matter if the camper sticks out of the bed some, but no matter what, you are going to need a GOOD SOLID step system.
The main concern for fitment is between the fenderwells and over the cab.  I had to shim mine back away from the front of the bed because of the rolled edge and on each side by the fenderwells.  Some people have to put a sheet of plywood in the bed to make clearance over the cab.

What the hell is a ditch Chevy?

Quick!  Someone find the LCR pic of a white Chevy being pulled out of a ditch!!

Quoted: Gibby, If you can wait until I find a decent pop up tailer or small travel trailer then I'll sell you my camper. Don't know when that will be though. I want a trailer I can pull behind the Scout. Doesn't help you for LCR, but it is something to keep in mind.

I thought you had a small one.  Camper that is.

Quoted: Gibby, the link CavVet posted is a very nice piece.  I did not look for a price, but I bet it is spendy.  Mine was similar, but built by a local welding shop. Re: tires, more important than age or wear is load rating.   You can put on 16.5 tires and rims, overloads and airbags, heavy duty shocks.  You still have the weight on the gears and bearings.  Plus if you get hit by one of those wind bursts out of the canyons or get into a corner just a little over speed, there is not a sway bar around that will keep you on the road. With a 1500, please find a lighter camper.  The time will be worth it.  It doesn't really matter if the camper sticks out of the bed some, but no matter what, you are going to need a GOOD SOLID step system. The main concern for fitment is between the fenderwells and over the cab.  I had to shim mine back away from the front of the bed because of the rolled edge and on each side by the fenderwells.  Some people have to put a sheet of plywood in the bed to make clearance over the cab.

Your help has been awesome.  $100 camper sounds nice, but I'm really not willing to risk the safety of whomever might be with me when I'm driving with it attached.  Guess the hunt will contunue.

OR

Run to Home Depot and pick up some plastic pipes and tarps!  Wham Granite Hillbilly camper!

Quoted: What the hell is a ditch Chevy? Quick!  Someone find the LCR pic of a white Chevy being pulled out of a ditch!!

I have not seen this pic or I'd help you out.




Of course, if you don't know the difference between a ditch and a hillside, that is a different topic.

Quoted: img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/bigscrun/new/jafotowed.jpg

Thanks!

Quoted: Quoted: Gibby, If you can wait until I find a decent pop up tailer or small travel trailer then I'll sell you my camper. Don't know when that will be though. I want a trailer I can pull behind the Scout. Doesn't help you for LCR, but it is something to keep in mind. I thought you had a small one.  Camper that is.

Yep. 6.5 foot I think. But it should be alot lighter than the one you are looking at. I have to put a pallet underneath the camper to get it up high enough so that it clears the top of the cab.

I think CavVet can hook you up with some cement anchor that camper to the bed of your truck.  

Welding? Think ARFCOMMERS.

Weight? Mine is #1000 loaded. Easy.

Popup? Craigs list had one last night cheap.


Uhhhhhhh, something else I forget.

Gibby I may be slow and blind, What is the dimensions of your bed. I have an Idea...