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Posted: 11/16/2012 8:03:10 AM EDT
[#1]
Didn't have to worry about it with mine, but you are correct that you have to get it x-rayed to make sure you're not drilling in a bad spot. That's about all I know. So don't get too set on where you want to put it just yet
 Might call Jesse over at Safe City in Mesa - I'm sure he has to deal with it all the time, and might even have the equipment. |
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:10:54 AM EDT
[#2]
Where abouts around the house do you find the markings for a Post Tension slab?
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:16:51 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Where abouts around the house do you find the markings for a Post Tension slab? 1- I watched my house get built. I saw the Rebar get put in. I have a rough ide of the spacing, but don't really remember where it is. It covers the entire slab and it about 8-10 inches apart and about 4-5 inches from the top (estimate). 2- It's marked in my Garage. I'm going to do some poking around this weekend on the outside to see if I can find any markings on the outside. I plan to position it along an outer wall. |
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:21:37 AM EDT
[#4]
If you can see the sides of the slab you might be able to see where the builder has patched the concrete where the cables were tensioned. You might be able to measure and grid out where the cables are.
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:29:38 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
If you can see the sides of the slab you might be able to see where the builder has patched the concrete where the cables were tensioned. You might be able to measure and grid out where the cables are. Yep, I'm hoping that's possible. That's got to be cheaper than the x-ray services. I thought I heard somewhere that was like 200-350 |
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:40:21 AM EDT
[#6]
Personally I'd pay to have it x-rayed, marked, and drilled by someone who's insured. Google "post tensioned slab failures" and check out some youtube videos as well. It's a good way to fuck up a home in short order.
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Posted: 11/16/2012 9:58:54 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Personally I'd pay to have it x-rayed, marked, and drilled by someone who's insured. Google "post tensioned slab failures" and check out some youtube videos as well. It's a good way to fuck up a home in short order. This, I work in the construction industry we install post tensioning all the time. I would get it GPRed. If you drill one of those cables you will cause way more damage than it would have cost you for GPR. The cable are not nessacary perfectly staight either, Just because you can see it at the end does not mean that is where it is at in the center. Call any of the concrete testing labs and they will have a GPR unit. |
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Posted: 11/16/2012 10:35:02 AM EDT
[#8]
I'll call safe city this weekend.
Can anyone else refer me to a contractor to get it GPR'd? |
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Posted: 11/16/2012 2:29:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Is it a brand new home? I am also building a new home with post tension slab. I took lots of pics of where the rebar was placed. But, if your in a new subdivision with other homes with the same floor plan being built just go over and measure their rebar spacing. I don't know, just an idea.
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Posted: 11/16/2012 4:56:00 PM EDT
[#10]
On a side note...why are homes all built on post tensioned slabs here in AZ? Seismic activity seems minimal here...
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Posted: 11/16/2012 6:52:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Wouldn't a metal detector be accurate enough?
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Posted: 11/16/2012 7:04:02 PM EDT
[#12]
AZ uses PT slabs because our soils SUCK.
Here is a good, but boring, report on the hows and whys http://www.vsl.net/Portals/0/vsl_techreports/PT_Slabs.pdf Metal detectors work fine. Cables can move 12" in either direction in most applications, that is a 2' swing from end to end. You can also use a short anchor and not get near the cable... I prefer the Titan HD from simpson http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/mechanical/titen-hd/index.html YMMV, drill at own risk |
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Posted: 11/18/2012 10:37:10 AM EDT
[#13]
My buddy is contracted with Cabela's, Bass Pro, and a few other shops to deliver and install safes. He is also a Liberty Rep, and he will not do a post tension slab. What he has recommended, if the space allows, is to pour a small slab about 6 inches thick, put the safe on the slab and bolt it to that. Seal all the way around the slab to prevent water intrusion. Not too many folks are going to bring a forklift to a burglary, which is what its gonna take to move safe and slab. MIght not be the best solution for you, but it works.
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Posted: 11/19/2012 7:20:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Properly applied lag bolts through the back into studs will be very effective also.
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Posted: 11/20/2012 7:16:33 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Properly applied lag bolts through the back into studs will be very effective also. I'll check to see if the safe has any holes in the back. |
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Posted: 11/20/2012 7:52:03 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Is it a brand new home? I am also building a new home with post tension slab. I took lots of pics of where the rebar was placed. But, if your in a new subdivision with other homes with the same floor plan being built just go over and measure their rebar spacing. I don't know, just an idea. And a poor one. The measurements would be somewhat close, but not close enough. Typically tract houses are built on a piece work pay basis. They tend to get X dollars per house, so the more that get done, the more $$$ in their pocket for the day. The measurements are close enough, but nowhere near exact. |
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Posted: 11/20/2012 7:53:25 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
On a side note...why are homes all built on post tensioned slabs here in AZ? Seismic activity seems minimal here... If the slab cracks it stays together. Also, there's lot's of expansive soil here. |
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Posted: 11/20/2012 9:03:31 AM EDT
[#18]
Update: Spoke with my builder. They're still building homes in my subdivision and I'm having them contact the building manager for my units and pull the blue prints.
I'm hoping to get the following into answered: 1- how far down is the rebar? 2- Can they show me where the rebar is placed on my home in particular by going outside? 3- Can they hook me up with a contractor to get a good deal on a radar job on the cheap. |
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