The usual approach with a non-chromed barrel is to take a few thousandths off of the face of the barrel...
You can also take it off the inside of the feed lips, but that's much trickier to get at (since it's inside the front receiver "ring."
Generally speaking, if you have to remove material, you work with the cheapest part. That usually means the barrel, especially with receivers somewhat hard, and expensive, to get right now...
If your barrel is not quite bottomed out when hand tightened to 10:30, you can probably get by without worrying too much about it bottoming out... After all, with the appropriate crush, we're only talking about the barrel being about 0.007" farther into the receiver...
Even when exactly right, the barrel will be so close to touching (bottomed out) that you probably won't notice the gap with the naked eye... If you have some of the Prussian blue to coat the surface of the barrel face, you'll be able to tell when it touches the back of the feed lip surface. For example, my current build (using an Argentine chrome-lined open eared gas block barrel and an Imbel receiver) hand tightened to about 10:00. I had 0.005" milled off the barrel shoulder, so that it now hand tightens to within 15-20 degrees of TDC (if I was doing it again, I would have had only 0.004" taken off...). Now, the back side of the feed ramp is just barely marking the Prussian blue. I'm not worried about that, because another 0.002" or so into the receiver will not cause problems...
Anyway, that's what I think...
Good luck with your build. I doubt that you'll have to worry about the feed ramp.
Forrest