Well, after about 2000 rounds, the trouble has started.  

It all began with a broken frame locking plate (connects the hammer, sear, and safety pins together) broke in two.  

At that time, I also discovered that the one-piece firing pin was broken.  Wierd.  

So, I replaced both with new parts from DSA.  

I promptly began having failures to fire.  2-3 out of every mag.  

After about 150 rounds, the problem got much worse.  Every 2 or three rounds would not fire--different lots of ammo.  

So, I inspected the frame locking plate and firing pin.  I measured the pin's protrusion at .057"--just past the minimum of .050" for reliable protrusion.  

Next, I noticed that the front edge of the locking plate that engages the notch in the hammer was bent and peened over and obstructing the hammer's travel.  I thought I had found the problem.  

So, I removed a few hundredths off of the front edge of the plate.  Seemed to work to allow freer movement of the hammer and allowed it move farther forward as it should.  

Back to the range.

Problem gets worse.  Hammer won't even fall after less than 20 rounds.  

Seems the frame locking plate is FUBAR and is preventing the hammer from even falling.  

In a fit of desperation, I took the plate back to the bench grinder and ground off the front part of the plate that engages the hammer.  So, in order to install the hammer return spring, I must hold the hammer back slightly by hand and then cock it once the spring is fully inserted rather than having the plate stop the hammer--there is nothing to stop the hammer from riding forward anymore--but the plate still has the parts that retain the pins.  

Back to the range.  

Problem is much improved but still get 2 out of 30 or so that won't fire.  Different lots of ammo--never happened before.  

So, now I'm thinking that the trigger return spring is weak and MAYBE combined with about what seems to be close to the minimum amount of firing pin protrusion, that weak hits on the primer are the cause as I've eliminated the binding caused by the frame locking plate.  

After closer inspection, the old Steyr locking plate has a different shape than the new DSA part--close, but not the same.  

Also, the new pin is a two-piece model and the pin retaining notch has a .005" smaller cut for movement than the Steyr pin.  

I believe that these minor differences have added up to a totality of SHIT--that results in weak primer hits and a non-firing, ACOG equipped CLUB.  

Of course, DSA says they will make it right and to send it back.  I'm sure they will do so.

But, I'm not confident in the gun anymore and in the future, should someting break, I will be left with non-standard parts that may or may not work after trial and error.  

I'm switching back to the mil-spec AR platform as my primary weapon.  

The Stg will just be a fun/backup gun.  

Wow thats to bad, DSA always put out a quality product, hope the can restore your faith.

Did you contact DSA to see if the would handle the repairs under warranty?  You may also consider sending it to AZEX or ARS both excellent FAL Smiths.  I have little use for unreliable weapons.  I've found my FALs to be very dependable.  Sorry to hear your experiance has been different.

Regards,
Gary

I have the same problems with my New DSA FAL STG58! I get 2-3 FTF per mag. My AR and AK's have proven to much better weapons as both have 0 FTF in thousands of rounds. I have not given up on the FAL but if I can not get it to funtion 100% it will go in the garbage!

My DSA Stg-58 has never failed in any way now after over 2000 rounds. I've let it get pretty dirty too, and it just keeps on keeping on! Let DSA fix it. The FAL has a rep for reliability for a reason.

What could a failure to eject be from? Mine does it quiet a bit and everything looks to be ok.

Quoted: Of course, DSA says they will make it right and to send it back.  I'm sure they will do so.

DSA says they'll fix it.  

I just hate to box up a gun and ship it out not knowing when it might return.  

It seems that the Stg kit is more of a "franken gun" than I originally understood.  

DSA's replacement parts don't really match up with the original Steyr parts, and I believe that is causing (or at least addiing to)  the problems.  

At least with an AR, mil-spec is most always interchangeable.  

I've used Bushmaster parts in a Colt upper and RRA parts in a PWA lower (and God only knows whose parts came in the PWA lower)and the AR has always worked.  

I like the FAL, but I can't trust it anymore for serious work.  
 

Quoted: What could a failure to eject be from? Mine does it quiet a bit and everything looks to be ok.

Gas adjustment?

My DSA stg58 has been 100% reliable since Day 1 .
(Even with various surplus ammo , it's less ammo sensitive than my ARs )

Let DSA fix it.

Quoted: DSA says they'll fix it.   I just hate to box up a gun and ship it out not knowing when it might return.   It seems that the Stg kit is more of a "franken gun" than I originally understood.

I had some problems with mine too. Don't lose heart, it CAN be fixed. I chose not to send mine back for the same reason. Instead I basically ended up going through the rifle myself. It was frustrating and at times I wondered myself if the SOB would ever run right. But I learned a tremendous amount  in the process about what makes these rifles tick. You pretty much summed it up with the "franken gun" comment. DSA 's really strong point is the receiver. The Stg kit your rifle is built on is good component wise(especially the barrel)but you must remember that the parts are from a military rifle that was broken down into a kit-as such parts have varying degrees of wear. So even though it looks like a new rifle when you get it, it's usually far from it except for the receiver.  The root cause of the problems with my rifle ended up being a bolt/carrier combo with a LOT of wear and mileage on it-