I have had my STG58 FAL out 2 times to the range and have put aprox. 500 rounds through it. It jams quiet a bit( 3 times in 20 rounds/clip). The jams consist of mostly failures to eject the spent case and the other is the bolt won't close all the way on the next round but it looks to be lined up right. I have the gun cleaned well and lubed well with Fp-10 CLP. I'm new to the adjustible gas system and I'm wondering if this could be the problem? To set up my system I opened it up all the way to 7 and closed it down a click till the bolt locked back and last round. It went down to 2 1/2 to 3 till the bolt locked back. Does this sound right?

My Rock River AR and FEG AK have NEVER jamed in thousands of rounds even during break in so I'm very dissapointed in the FAL.  I really want to like this gun and for it to work 100% and I'm not ready to give up on it yet.

How can I get this to run 100% jam free like my other guns? Tha ammo I use is Portugese in water proof battle packs. This is high quality ammo(so I'm told). The mag is new and came with the gun.                                    
                                            Thank you for any help!!!!!

P.S. The last 2 clips(same clip) I put through it were flawless.

Quoted: I have had my STG58 FAL out 2 times to the range and have put aprox. 500 rounds through it. It jams quiet a bit( 3 times in 20 rounds/clip). The jams consist of mostly failures to eject the spent case and the other is the bolt won't close all the way on the next round but it looks to be lined up right. I have the gun cleaned well and lubed well with Fp-10 CLP. I'm new to the adjustible gas system and I'm wondering if this could be the problem? To set up my system I opened it up all the way to 7 and closed it down a click till the bolt locked back and last round. It went down to 2 1/2 to 3 till the bolt locked back. Does this sound right? My Rock River AR and FEG AK have NEVER jamed in thousands of rounds even during break in so I'm very dissapointed in the FAL.  I really want to like this gun and for it to work 100% and I'm not ready to give up on it yet. How can I get this to run 100% jam free like my other guns? Tha ammo I use is Portugese in water proof battle packs. This is high quality ammo(so I'm told). The mag is new and came with the gun.                                                                                 Thank you for any help!!!!! P.S. The last 2 clips(same clip) I put through it were flawless.

Sounds like you adjusted the gas system just fine.  Your second problem (bolt not closing on a round, etc.) is exactly the problem that I had with my STG58 new from DSA.  Their solution?  Try some different ammo (the guy on the phone said "I shoot Black Hills.  It NEVER fails").  Uh huh.

I took to diagnosing the problem myself.  First solution worked.  I ordered some new return springs.  They're the ones in the buttstock that drive the bolt forward.  I bought some new ones (from Tapco I think), and took out the old ones.  The ones provided with the STG58 were a full 3 inches shorter than the replacements!  

I haven't had a jam since then.  Might want to give it a shot!  Good luck.

ETA:  You'll probably want to readjust the gas system after you replace the springs.


and it's a mag, not a clip

How much did the return springs cost you? How many are in the butt stock? Also How do I get the butt pad off, it looks like I need a special tool maybe?

Get one of these:
$9.99
and a set of these:
$16.99

I can't find the return springs separately, but the other springs could be useful too.

Thank you very much!!!!

How many mags do you have?

I was having the same problem with my ORF FAL carbine but was able to narrow it down to 2 mags that didn't work.
I threw them out, gun works fine now.

Mags from www.tapco.com are cheap! Buy 10 and throw out the ones that don't work.

What kind of ammo are you using?

Some ammo doesn't work in some guns, it's a fact of life.

It's portugiese ammo in greem rubber battle packs. Just the 1 mag that came with the gun but I thought it was new and looks to be in great shape. I'll try another though.

One more thing on the gas system...  Once you find a setting that reliably locks the bolt back, you're supposed to go two more clicks to ensure proper operation in all conditions.  Other than that, the return spring suggestion will likely cure what ails you.

Interesting. My new SA58 Predator has a problem closing the bolt on a round too. I have tried lightly sanding the lips of the magazine becasue I noticed sharp scratches on the ejected (or partially fed) brass. I lubed the magazine lips and follower to see if eliminating friction in the system would help. I was just about to resort to lubing the ammo too as an experiment. I've been told that DSA makes tight guns and that things will improve over time with some usage. My DSA has been the most unreliable rifle I have ownwed, and I own all kinds.

I think I will try a new return spring. What is the overall length and number of turns on a correct spec spring?

Hey SkagSig40, drop me a note if you try the spring and it works. Also, IM me and tell me where you are in Colorado.

LEX sounds like maybe some receiver feed rail polishing might help you

Quoted: It's portugiese ammo in greem rubber battle packs. Just the 1 mag that came with the gun but I thought it was new and looks to be in great shape. I'll try another though.

The mag that came with it is it a low cap 10rd mag?

I find most of those factory mags are junk, no matter what the gun.

No It came with a 20 round mag.

Still worth a try, you need more mags anyways, and mags are like $5ea.

Also try closing down the gas another notch and see what happens, I think these Fals need to be broken in.

Thanks again I'll keep at it!

Ive had simular probs with a parts kit rifle, I guess the gas system was kind of worn out.  I had failures to extract and sometimes the bolt wouldnt close.  I was having about 5 or 6 malfunctions per 20 round mag.  I had to adjust the gas setting to a position in between 1and 2.  This position doesnt let much of the gas escape,  since then Ive put about 300 round through it without a malfunction.

Mine is now set at  2 1/2 does this mean it is worn out? If I got closer to 4 the bolt will not lock back.

Quoted: Mine is now set at  2 1/2 does this mean it is worn out? If I got closer to 4 the bolt will not lock back.

Yeah sounds like a bunch of Austrians were rocking and rolling probably trying to bring down their end of year report for next years budget by expanding thousands upon thousands of rounds with your STG.  But don't sweat it man, just think of it this way; at least they had a good time with your rifle.......Just think man!  You've got a real piece of history with that firearm!  I mean how many of us could brag about that as a possibility for the performance or rather lack there of with ours!  I'm completely jealous!Send it back to DSA.  Call them first.  Be polite, courteous, and explain the entire situation.  You did fill out the warranty card I hope

Quoted: Mine is now set at  2 1/2 does this mean it is worn out? If I got closer to 4 the bolt will not lock back.

No.  Not at all.  If you had it closed and it failed to lock back, that would be a problem.  Besides, low gas numbers does not indicate a worn out part or rifle.  It can mean a number of things, including a dirty gas piston, grunge in the recoil spring, poor fitting bolt or carrier, weak ammo, too small of a gas port (common on carbines), bent gas rod, bent gas tube or a worn gas block.  If it works on 2.5, why mess with it?  

If it ain't broke...

Quoted: Mine is now set at  2 1/2 does this mean it is worn out? If I got closer to 4 the bolt will not lock back.

My new DSA is on gas setting 1.5 when fully closed. The gas ring can't turn any further. I think the numbers are relative to give you an indication of +/- where the setting is currently.

I posted this on another thread;
Make sure your recoil tube is bright and shinny, and don't put to much oil in it, to much oil could cause a Hydrolic situation on the recoil plunger.  If that is good make sure your bolt and carrier move very freely back and forth.  If those are good make sure your gas tube is nice and shinny if not polish it, make sure the gas piston fits well, you maybe having blow by happening if the gas piston is undersized.  If you have to much oil in the gas tube you could have sluggish operation, but I don't rhink that would be your problem.  After checking those out then I would remove the front sight post and incrimentally move up as high as .116 drill bit to open the gas port.  Put a dawl rod in the barral so you don't mare the rifling by going to far.   I used a drill of .118 on one of mine and it functions great at gas setting 5.   If you have an inch gas block you don't need to remove the front sight post.  I allways go by drill as a last resort.

The thing that ticks me off a little is why should I have to do these modifications(yes not major ones) to make my brand new $1000.00+ firearm funtion right? Why is the gas port not already drilled to the proper spec? Why do I need to buy a stronger return spring? All this should already be done by DSA!

I've tweeked my FAL as much as I can and I'm hopeing it will start to funtion properly. I'm starting to doubt DSA's quality controll! I whish everything in life worked like my SIG 229...perfect!

I had very similar problems with mine and sent it back to DSA.  I got it back and it functions perfectly now.  I'm not sure what all they did but whatever it was, it worked.

Quoted: The thing that ticks me off a little is why should I have to do these modifications(yes not major ones) to make my brand new $1000.00+ firearm funtion right? Why is the gas port not already drilled to the proper spec? Why do I need to buy a stronger return spring? All this should already be done by DSA! I've tweeked my FAL as much as I can and I'm hopeing it will start to funtion properly. I'm starting to doubt DSA's quality controll! I whish everything in life worked like my SIG 229...perfect!

Its not a brand new rifle and should never be confused with one.  The rifle you have has a new receiver, hammer, trigger sear, pistol grip gas piston anf probably charging handle, but the rest of it is over 40 years old.  There is no such thing as "proper spec" on the gas port because the originals were never made with a 16.25" barrel.  Its all been trial and error when you get shorter than 18".  

As for Sig reliability, you don't own a GRS do you?  

Quoted: Quoted: The thing that ticks me off a little is why should I have to do these modifications(yes not major ones) to make my brand new $1000.00+ firearm funtion right? Why is the gas port not already drilled to the proper spec? Why do I need to buy a stronger return spring? All this should already be done by DSA! I've tweeked my FAL as much as I can and I'm hopeing it will start to funtion properly. I'm starting to doubt DSA's quality controll! I whish everything in life worked like my SIG 229...perfect! Its not a brand new rifle and should never be confused with one.  The rifle you have has a new receiver, hammer, trigger sear, pistol grip gas piston anf probably charging handle, but the rest of it is over 40 years old.  There is no such thing as "proper spec" on the gas port because the originals were never made with a 16.25" barrel.  Its all been trial and error when you get shorter than 18".   As for Sig reliability, you don't own a GRS do you?

I know it is not "new" but it was put together buy DSA and should work 100% right out of the box. The only other rifle that I had problems with was a Century CETME. I would think DSA would do a better job then Century Arms. I'll give it a few more trys and then it is getting traded in.

About the GSR, I'm going to buy one and I have heard the early ones had trouble but that has been resolved now. I'm buying one I know for a fact funtions 100%. Should be a nice gun comming from SIG.

Not to "poke the bear", but you kinda made my point.  I own a GSR and I've done a number of things to it in order for it to meet my requirements, including a trip back to Exeter to fis a feed issue.  Even the best can have problems.  It doesn't mean the gun, nor the manufacturer is junk, nor that one should give up on the gun.  My GSR is now my "go to" pistol and I wouldn't consider getting rid of it.  I totally rely on it, but that took some effort.  

Beyond that, you have complained that you had to adjust it down to 2.5.  So?  That doesn't imply a defect, nor anything at all wrong with the rifle.  

Again, I want to stress that I am not bashing you.  Its not personal, but I have noticed that Glock and Sig owners tend to have a bit unrealistic expecttions.  The gas system is adjustible.  That adds complexity to the operation.  It takes effort on the users part to make it shoot correctly.  The FAL is not for those who don't have the time/energy/attention span to learn the system.  

I will also take a bit of responsibility here as well.  I make an error in one of my posts to you.  I gave a list of things that can be wrong with a rifle that requires a lower number on the gas setting.  I should have also mentioned that 2.5 is quite normal.  My list of things to look at is valid, but only if the gun suddenly starts giving problems on a gas setting that had previously been working well.  Sorry about that.  If you're not familiar with the FAL, you wouldn't have known this.

Yeah you should probably just sell it out right.  I'll give you 300 for it.  I think 300 pesos for non operating firearm is a plausible deal?  Let me know.

Quoted: Yeah you should probably just sell it out right.  I'll give you 300 for it.  I think 300 pesos for non operating firearm is a plausible deal?  Let me know.

Yeah yeah!!! I really do like the gun and I really want to be able to trust it. I will not give up on it yet. It really is a sweet gun and has it own charicter.

I don't have pacience(sp?) and will have to just learn to work with it. I'll keep trying to fix it and post back here!

I am way too tired to read all the most likely fine posts here tonight, but I will add one idea.  I purchased a STG58 kit from DSA (an excellent parts kit).  Built it up on an Imbel receiver, and with compliant parts.  The barrel looked so new I went though the break in process.  

The first shot would not eject the round.  I adjusted the gas system and still no ejection.  First the gas port was plugged, so I put a cleaning rod in the barrel and ran a small drill under the sight to open the gas port.  STILL NO EJECTION!  I took the US gas piston out and put in the Austrian (it looked and seemed identical) and it ejected great.

My FAL is a pleasure to shoot.  Super reliable and very accurate.

Hope it helps.

Quoted: I am way too tired to read all the most likely fine posts here tonight, but I will add one idea.  I purchased a STG58 kit from DSA (an excellent parts kit).  Built it up on an Imbel receiver, and with compliant parts.  The barrel looked so new I went though the break in process.   The first shot would not eject the round.  I adjusted the gas system and still no ejection.  First the gas port was plugged, so I put a cleaning rod in the barrel and ran a small drill under the sight to open the gas port.  STILL NO EJECTION!  I took the US gas piston out and put in the Austrian (it looked and seemed identical) and it ejected great. My FAL is a pleasure to shoot.  Super reliable and very accurate. Hope it helps.

Are you absolutely positive you had the gas plug in correctly?  If you have it in the "G" position, its set for firing grenades and allows no gas in the system.  None.  Rotate it 180 gegrees and you're in shape!

First thing I checked…..not set on grenade.  The drill pulled out a bunch of black crap...powder or grease, and it did the trick.  I had a friend and a real gunsmith helping with it.  

This was just the problem I had...and fixed.