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Posted: 11/6/2020 5:25:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted: First— many thanks in advance for your help. So I have this garand, unfortunately it needs a little TLC (sad). Winchester s/n indicates October 1945. Where can I get info on the various cartouche marks? I’d like to know where it has been. I’m also going to need some parts, namely the buttplate is badly rusted and there is surface rust on the trigger guard and sling mounts. I hope to shoot it after going over it thoroughly, but from what I can see of the internals it seems in good shape. Also- the small hand guard closest to the muzzle. Is the lower portion supposed to be open, exposing (what I assume) is the gas tube? This one is also very loose. Congratulations and welcome to the Garand club. Post some pics of the cartouches and we can let you know what they mean. As for the rusty bits if they are original Winchester parts then I would try to clean them up rather than replace. If they are not then it's no big deal changing them out. Parts are plentiful still and not too bad price wise. The front handguard should be open on the bottom and you will see the op rod through the gap. The rattle is also normal. Not ideal but normal. |
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Posted: 11/6/2020 7:17:36 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted: First— many thanks in advance for your help. So I have this garand, unfortunately it needs a little TLC (sad). Winchester s/n indicates October 1945. Where can I get info on the various cartouche marks? I’d like to know where it has been. I’m also going to need some parts, namely the buttplate is badly rusted and there is surface rust on the trigger guard and sling mounts. I hope to shoot it after going over it thoroughly, but from what I can see of the internals it seems in good shape. Also- the small hand guard closest to the muzzle. Is the lower portion supposed to be open, exposing (what I assume) is the gas tube? This one is also very loose. If you can post pictures. We can help. Some books, M1 Garand 1936 to 1957 by Joe Poyer & Craig Riesch; Scott Duff's books; M1 Garand and the M1 Carbine Complete Guide by Bruce Canfield. Some new springs from Orion might be needed. Welcome to the addiction known as 'Garanditis' 
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Posted: 11/6/2020 8:40:45 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 11/6/2020 10:02:02 PM EDT
[#4]
You have a Danish made barrel. I believe that VAR stands for Weapons Arsenal in Danish
(Våbenarsenal) |
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Posted: 11/6/2020 10:03:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryThat is a danish replacement barrel. https://www.ammogarand.com/m1-garand-barrel-danish-var-3958-exce13958.html |
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Posted: 11/6/2020 10:04:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Look through this. It's stuck at the top of the forum.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/M1-Garand-and-M1A-Resources-Need-Input-/6-513652/ |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 7:19:47 AM EDT
[#7]
ok. I assume it's normal to have various components replaced over the years? What should I consider a "red flag"?
I initially was only going to display this rifle, but that seems wrong-- it almost deserves to be used properly again. Does that sound weird? The butt plate is heavily rusted-- the rifle was stored in a sock in someone's garage. Mice had eaten away at the fabric at ground level and moisture got to the plate. Between the rust and the impregnated fibers of the sock, I couldn't even tell there was a trapdoor in the plate. There may be a crack in the butt in the area where the lower screw (I think it goes into the strap swivel?) goes in-- the rust is severe enough that I am not sure if I can get the screws out. I'm going to soak them in kroil. Overall, the action is smooth, someone used grease properly, I need to see the bore yet. I'll try to post up additional pics.... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 8:39:10 AM EDT
[#8]
Rather than soaking the screws to get them out and replace the buttplate, my suggestion would be to just replace the entire stock. From the pic you posted, it appears that the stock is made of European beech wood. Beechwood stocks have two things going against them. #1. They don't look really nice due to their "fish scale" type grain, especially when dyed. If you strip the stain, and sand them. They are a pale yellow, which may turn color to a orangish tint. #2. They aren't insetted properly.
My suggestion would be to go to eBay, or Gunbroker and check out Garand stocks. Many will be dirty, but clean up very nicely. You can also find Boyds made aftermarket stocks. They are decent, but then to have too much wood. So don't like them since they feel "clubby". I'm dealing with one now. USGI stocks are what I prefer. WW2 stocks are walnut, and usually a bit trimmer. Post WW2 stocks can be walnut or birch, and have bit more meat in them. If you want some help, shoot me a PM or an email, and I will help you out. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:10:05 AM EDT
[#9]
Roger that. Thank you!
I got up early (seems I’m succumbing to garand disease?) and started working on those screws. So glad I bought a wheeler gunsmith screwdriver set earlier this year! As expected, the long screw gave me all the trouble— it was touch & go there for a bit, but it’s off. The stock is stamped “870258” with no other markings I can tell. Will try to post more pics. Due to the various cracks, replacing the stock is definitely on the table but we’ll see.... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:13:08 AM EDT
[#10]
edit: removed pic
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:14:03 AM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:15:38 AM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:18:02 AM EDT
[#13]
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Posted: 11/7/2020 9:52:33 AM EDT
[#14]
parts gun, through a rebuild at least in the land of Danish. Perhaps more than one.
Replace parts at will, no guilt. Var barrels are noted for fine accuracy above the norm. I hope that is in good shape. A walnut replacement stock, a used trap door buttplate with new sling loop and screws. Move the handguard clip and front ferrule over. carefully bend the two tabs over on the front handguard and move the three metal pieces over. All that said, if the op rod spring is not broken and meets minimum length standards (not collapsed in length or worn out) the gun is shootable even with the nasty buttplate. Shoot it and see if the accuracy is acceptible. Our army standard was a 4” mean radius I think at 200. Someone will correct me if my recollection is off. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 10:06:43 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: parts gun, through a rebuild at leadt in the land of Danish. Replace parts at will, no guilt. Var barrels are noted for fine accuracy above the norm. I hope that is in good shape. A walnut replacement stock, a used trap door butt plate with new sling loop and screws. Move the hand guard clip and front ferrule over. carefully bend the two tabs over on the front handguard and move the three metal pieces over. excellent! Thanks! Have it field stripped-- here's some more numbers: op rod- D35382 9 SA lower receiver (near the front linkage pin)- D28291-2 also hand engraved on the lower receiver- SA 4-65 stamped on the underside (below the rear sight, against the stock and hidden from view- a large "P" and smaller "N" also stamped on the frame near the bullet guide- "A" and "H" this is going to be so much fun! I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl! LOL.... edited to add-- after getting the butt plate off, I see that one of the storage holes has a slip of paper deep down there and the other has what looks like a small can of grease? hope to get those out-- maybe the paper has something interesting! |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 10:24:56 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: excellent! Thanks! Have it field stripped-- here's some more numbers: op rod- D35382 9 SA lower receiver (near the front linkage pin)- D28291-2 also hand engraved on the lower receiver- SA 4-65 stamped on the underside (below the rear sight, against the stock and hidden from view- a large "P" and smaller "N" also stamped on the frame near the bullet guide- "A" and "H" this is going to be so much fun! I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl! LOL.... edited to add-- after getting the butt plate off, I see that one of the storage holes has a slip of paper deep down there and the other has what looks like a small can of grease? hope to get those out-- maybe the paper has something interesting! The D28291-2 is the drawing number. The "D" indicates the drawing size, and the -2 is the revision number. Springfield, being the Government run always incorporated all improvements as the came, and thus the "Dash" number was always changing. Winchester, being a private company building on a contract, stuck with the contract until the contract ended and a new one was issued. Almost all WW@ Winchester are a "-2" revision. With that high of a serial number, more than likely you will not have a "lead dipped heel". To prevent heel cracking, the heels, and in Winchester's case the bottom of the rear receiver legs, were dipped in molten lead, which affected the heat treated. It annealed them, making them less brittle and less susceptible to cracking. This treatment caused a change in color when the receivers were parkerized. The heels, and other treated parts, would become darker when parkerized. Sometimes it is hard to tell. I took me forever to notice the lead dipped heel only WW2 Springfield. The "SA 4-65" should be a Government rebuild date. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 10:34:20 AM EDT
[#17]
From the butt stock tubes: I cannot make out the writing tho....
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:09:17 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: From the butt stock tubes: I cannot make out the writing tho....https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/368640/B83DBF33-E154-4383-802D-54AE4A8B3C00-1673452.jpg I think that word that begins with "v" is the Danish word, "visir", which means sight. The word at the top is "højde", which means elevation. There's also the number 19 on the top row and the number "2" at the bottom. So I'm guessing it means 19 clicks of elevation to zero at 200 meters. If the writing was clearer I could tell you for sure. But that word in the top row is "højde", so I am fairly certain. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:18:19 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think that word that begins with "v" is the Danish word, "visir", which means sight. The word at the top is "højde", which means elevation. There's also the number 19 on the top row and the number "2" at the bottom. So I'm guessing it means 19 clicks of elevation to zero at 200 meters. If the writing was clearer I could tell you for sure. But that word in the top row is "højde", so I am fairly certain. Lol... considering it’s got a danish barrel, it makes sense that someone would have marked down sighting info-yes? |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:27:29 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: we need the goose! @dkprof Lol... considering it’s got a danish barrel, it makes sense that someone would have marked down sighting info-yes? The written Danish language has many similarities with Afrikaans. For example the word, "sight" in Afrikaans is "visier" and it is "visir" in Danish. If I could only read that guy's handwriting, I could tell you for sure. ETA: At the bottom it probably is "vis.", which probably is the abbreviated form of the word, "visir" And at the top it might be "høj.", the abbreviated version of "højde" |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:42:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Is the bore rusted? Because if the bore is in good shape, you will have a good shooter. VAR barrels are excellent.
Before shooting it, check the headspace. You have a Winchester receiver, a VAR barrel and a Springfield bolt and you want to make sure that combination headspaced properly. If that was my rifle, I would replace the stock and handguards. Read this thread. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Garand-Stocks/6-492124/ |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:52:28 AM EDT
[#22]
havent looked at the barrel yet-- hope it's good. Never even handling a garand, I am taking it slow and have only field stripped it so far.
There is some surface rust on the outside of the trigger housing and floorplate to deal with as well. The internals are clean so far. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 11:55:03 AM EDT
[#23]
You can keep an eye open on the Dupage Trading website for a stock. Ebay or the CMP M1 Garand parts for sale. as well.
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:15:00 PM EDT
[#24]
Houston, we may have a problem!
In the middle of detail stripping and am unable to separate the op rod from the bolt. Something doesn’t look right.... 
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:35:50 PM EDT
[#25]
That looks like rub marks from a defective op rod. Look at the inside surfaces of the op rod and see if you see matching wear marks. If not, I wouldn't worry at this point. If you see matching wear marks, I would suggest a new op rod. You might have an op rod that is slightly bent, causing it to rub at the rear of it's travel.
Go with Springfield, they're usually cheaper than a Winchester op rod. Though any brand will work. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:46:09 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That looks like rub marks from a defective op rod. Look at the inside surfaces of the op rod and see if you see matching wear marks. If not, I wouldn't worry at this point. If you see matching wear marks, I would suggest a new op rod. You might have an op rod that is slightly bent, causing it to rub at the rear of it's travel. Go with Springfield, they're usually cheaper than a Winchester op rod. Though any brand will work. my concern is the missing cutout needed for removing the op rod-- I think someone tried to fix a crack.... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:47:03 PM EDT
[#27]
I have a Winchester operating rod. It needs to be rebuilt. But it could be rebuilt by Columbus Machine.
I would be willing to trade this Winchester operating rod for the OP's op rod. ETA: The receiver looks like it was welded. Compare the two pictures:  
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:47:59 PM EDT
[#28]
Looks like a weld was removed. The cut out for the bolt lug looks like it has weld undercut on the edge.
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:54:55 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks like a weld was removed. The cut out for the bolt lug looks like it has weld undercut on the edge. That’s my concern. Here’s a pic from a different angle- you can see how the cutout has filler in it. I cannot see any evidence of a crack on the opposite side but there is a hint of discoloration from heat in that area. 
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:58:21 PM EDT
[#30]
The rear bolt track on the OP's receiver is curved. This is incorrect for a Winchester receiver. A Winchester receiver should have the rear of the bolt track as a square cut. Like this receiver.
 There is also a suspicious notch at the lower edge of the rear bolt track. That poor receiver has been messed with. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 2:09:18 PM EDT
[#31]
I am sad. The barrel is clean and bright... don't know what to do next.
Thought I had a shooter here, maybe not? |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 2:54:12 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The rear bolt track on the OP's receiver is curved. This is incorrect for a Winchester receiver. A Winchester receiver should have the rear of the bolt track as a square cut. Like this receiver. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/234818/OIP-1673715.jpg There is also a suspicious notch at the lower edge of the rear bolt track. That poor receiver has been messed with. Looks like a dril rifle receiver however... Need to see around the barrel threads area under the handguards to see if thats true.... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 2:54:55 PM EDT
[#33]
If you remove the handguards, are there any signs of heat or welding on the receiver ring?
Wondering if you have a reactivated drill rifle on your hands. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:07:45 PM EDT
[#34]
They have butt plates for $25 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Prime.
M1 Garand butt plate |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:13:43 PM EDT
[#35]
I am late to the party but I agree it looks like a recovered drill rifle.
OP where did you get this and what did you spend? If you got it cheap enough it may still be a deal but if you paid full retail I would suggest getting us more pics around the barrel at the receiver to verify but odds are good that is a recovered drill rifle from what I see. Sucks but the way it is. I would be tempted to try to return. That VAR barrel is a good one if it’s numbers are good. But you have a bigger issue. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:18:19 PM EDT
[#36]
The question is, is it a CMP Danish return rifle or did somebody just have an extra Danish Barrel around and slap it on a rebuilt receiver.
When I was in Denmark in 1977 the royal guards at the palace all had M1 Garands with bayonet attached. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:19:46 PM EDT
[#37]
I didn’t pay anything for this.
What’s the deal with a “drill rifle” are they unsafe? Here is a pic of the joint between the receiver and barrel— look like a weld to me but only in that one spot. 
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:23:11 PM EDT
[#38]
And just FYI for comparison, you can get a pretty nice CMP special rack grade with new barrel and new walnut stock for $650.
Here is one I picked up last month.  |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:26:44 PM EDT
[#39]
The drill rifle was used just for marching, doing the manual of arms, they were not able to shoot, they were deactivated so that they'd be safe for high school ROTC or something like that. On a reactivated one they try to undo the welding or plugging of the barrel that was done to deactivate them. Sometimes it's more successful than others. If it was actually a demilled receiver that means it was cut in half and sold as scrap and then somebody welded it back together again. And again depending on how well the job was done it may be still safe to shoot or it may not be.
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:31:48 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The drill rifle was used just for marching, doing the manual of arms, they were not able to shoot, they were deactivated so that they'd be safe for high school ROTC or something like that. On a reactivated one they try to undo the welding or plugging of the barrel that was done to deactivate them. Sometimes it's more successful than others. If it was actually a demilled receiver that means it was cut in half and sold as scrap and then somebody welded it back together again. And again depending on how well the job was done it may be still safe to shoot or it may not be. There is definitely NO sign of welding to the other side indicating it had been demilled... Honestly, this looks like there had been a small crack in that area that someone tried to fix. What I am trying to understand is-- did they do this with the rifle partially assembled? I can not figure out to remove the op rod without that cutout, and why, if you were going to weld a crack, would you not mill the cutout again? Is that area prone to stress cracks? It doesn't seem like a high stress area... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 3:34:27 PM EDT
[#41]
 The barrel after a brush and swab. Best I do with my phone... |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 4:19:16 PM EDT
[#42]
I am even more sure it was a drill rifle. As stated a drill rifle is normally made by doing a few things
1. Weld the OpRod channel shut at OpRod can’t be removed (yours show this) 2. Weld barrel to the receiver (yours shows that too) 3. Insert a metal rod into the chamber, drill a hole through barrel to the rod and weld the rod in place (likely your barrel was replaced) 4. Weld the gas cylinder lock screw to the gas cylinder lock by drilling and welding (yours replaced). You didn’t say, where did you buy and for how much? Was it claimed to be a CMP rifle? It could still be a CMP Drill Rifle!!! I have 8 garands including a drill rifle. You can see photos of my drill rifle here https://imgur.com/gallery/q6c7noL Edit: I see where you said you didn’t pay anything for this. If so, great deal. You need to find a competent gunsmith to repair the OpRod channel (mill work) and it could be a fine shooter. Those VAR barrels as I said before are very good if not worn out. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 4:20:22 PM EDT
[#43]
U have a recovered dril rifle receiver that someone installed a danish parts kit on.
If that's the only sign of welding I wouldn't worry too much about it. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 4:35:52 PM EDT
[#44]
ok, so I have a bridgeport at work-- easy enough to open the groove enough to remove the op rod-- so you think that was intentionally done and NOT a crack repair?
following that, a go/no go gauge should determine if I should even try shooting it, correct? |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 4:56:59 PM EDT
[#45]
As other have stated, recovered drill rifle.
Head space it, inspect for any cracks where it was welded and go shoot it. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 4:58:27 PM EDT
[#46]
Well, looking at your Receiver it looks like the channel my need more than just that notch added. Note the wear where the OpRod was hitting but if you can run it a Bridgeport is the correct tool!
Once you get that done you should inspect and check the OpRod. I don’t know the desired sizes myself but you may have premature wear due to that channel issue. Then you want to do a tilt test to make sure everything is moving like it should. Finally, yes it would be wise to confirm headspace is in spec given there were some shortcuts taken. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 5:05:14 PM EDT
[#47]
thank you! Can you explain the "tilt test"?
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Posted: 11/7/2020 5:29:39 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ok, so I have a bridgeport at work-- easy enough to open the groove enough to remove the op rod-- so you think that was intentionally done and NOT a crack repair? following that, a go/no go gauge should determine if I should even try shooting it, correct? |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 6:04:10 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: thank you! Can you explain the "tilt test"? Basically you want to get the barreled receiver out of the stock and strip it down so that the only parts on it are the operating rod and bolt. Then you tilt the barreled action muzzle up to muzzle down and the weight of the bolt with operating rod should be enough to fully close the bolt. Then do from muzzle down to muzzle up and it should open the action again just by the weight of the OpRod and bolt. I’ve gained some weight so bear with my video.  M1 Garand Tilt Test What it shoes you though is if the OpRod or channel is bent or out is spec. Later you should repeat in the stock as it will show you if any wood is rubbing. Easy check! |
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Posted: 11/8/2020 1:20:41 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There is definitely NO sign of welding to the other side indicating it had been demilled... Honestly, this looks like there had been a small crack in that area that someone tried to fix. What I am trying to understand is-- did they do this with the rifle partially assembled? I can not figure out to remove the op rod without that cutout, and why, if you were going to weld a crack, would you not mill the cutout again? Is that area prone to stress cracks? It doesn't seem like a high stress area... Welding evidence on a demilled receiver would be between the receiver legs, unlikely to be back where the cutout should be. |
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