On the Garand, it all depends on the barrel, but IMR 4895 is the powder of choice.  You're in the ballpark with the 46 grains of it behind a 168 for the up to 300 yard line, but still work up your loads.   While on the subject, if you are loading for a standard USGI barrel, your going to find that a flat base bullet type works better than a BT design if your cycling through the clip due to the long jump of the USGI throat leads.  Because of this, it is not uncommon to load 125gr for yardages up to the 200 mark, but a compromise for short and longer ranges may be something in the 150gr since you can get them with flat bases for a SGI reamed barrel.

As for primers, if you can find cases of Rem 9 1/2 primers with all of the same lots, you’re golden.  If not, the Fed 210 match primers.  Granted that you may not see much of a difference at the short ranges, it is the longer ranges that the cooler burning primers show the differences.

Bottom line, before you do anything, mic the throat leade and see if you can load a 168 to be off the .004’ish off the land and still fit into the loaded clip.  If you can’t, then no worries since you will be sledding the loads at the 600 line anyway and you can long for that, which just leaves you to come up with a 200/300 line load, and the 125 are great since they do reduce recoil of the rifle.

Note: if you have a jump of around .100 with the ammo loaded for the mag, you’re wasting your time with a boat tail bullet.  The best you may luck out is around a .040 jump with a BT design before the barrel starts pitching a bitch down range at POI (gasses blowing out around the BT base and hitting the throat before the bullet engages, much less the long leap).

Please in Gods name tell me that you know the difference between canister powder and bulk powders that factories use to produce loads, not to mention that the difference between bullet contact areas and what can happen if you start just swapping bullet designs without pressure testing the load.