Don't worry about the windage knob settings when installing the sight.

Install the main block into the spring cover, and then slip the two into the receiver. From there, use a something like a small screwdriver to push in on the bottom/back edge of the spring cover to snap/lock it into the receiver spring groove.

Now, insert the aperture into the main block and slide it down about half way.

Now align the block and thread the windage knob about 5 winds.

Insert the elevation knob, and slowly raise/lower the aperture until the gears mesh, and then push the it in the last bit of the way while turning the windage knob until the flat of the elevation shaft lines up with the windage knob flat.  From that point, you will be able to draw over the elevation knob over by tightening the inner windage screw.

To fine tune the windage knob continue to tighten the inner screw until the windage knob will no longer turn in the receiver socket, then back the inner screw out 1/2 turn.

Now on the elevation screw, loosen the inner slot screw with the aperture about half way up (remember to hold the aperture), then tighten the screw back up to the point that when you turn the knob, the aperture raises and lowers with the knob.  Now bottom out the aperture, and loosen the screw back up, then click the windage knob about 12 clicks clock wise past the 100 mark setting, then lightly tighten the screw back up.  Raise the windage knob to around the 400 setting, and finish tightening the inner screw.

Note: you do not want to fully tighten or loosen the inner elevation screw with the aperture bottom out.  If done this way, you take a good chance of stripping out the gears.  

As for the 12 click up for a 100 zero, it will get you in the ball park, but you will still need to final adjust using live fire.


To fine tune the windage knob continue to tighten the inner screw until the windage knob will no longer turn in the socket, then back the inner screw out 1/2 turn.

Normal zero for 100 meters is between 8 to 12 clicks of the aperture up off the bottom.  When you set the index on the elevation, again, bottom out the aperture, click the windage knob to 100 (screw loosened), then go 12 clicks clockwise more and semi tightened up the screw.

This leads to the aperture bottomed out, then 12 clicks up, the elevation will be on the 100 meter index if you did everything right.

Sight-in the rifle at 25m, using GI ball.  POI=POA.

Once you are there, adjust the elevation drum to 200 yds.  Confirm at actual distance.  You should be very close.

Forget about where the sights and drum are for right now.  All that means is you are likely to be somewhere on the paper at 100 yds.  Your rifle is not yet sighted-in.

Sight the thing in at 25M.  This will give you a 200 yd zero.  Do this prone, and with a sling if you know how to use one.  Use GI ball ammo.

We're going to do this in two steps.  One for windage, and one for elevation.

Click up about 10 clicks or whatever you need to get on the paper.

Click up or down so the shot's roughly centered on the paper.

Now, center the rear sight for windage.  If your POI=POA windage-wise you can forego the next step.  If not, read on.

Next step is to use an allen wrench to loosen the front sight, and mechanically zero the rifle for windage. Move the front sight until the rifle is zeroed for windage, and sock it down but good.  Scribe a line so that if the front sight should ever move, you can put it back in the right spot.

OK.  At this point, your rifle should be on the paper, and the windage POI=POA.  Now, adjust the peep up or down so that your elevation POI=POA.  Once you've got that done, you should be hitting your POA smack on, with your rear sight's windage centered.

Once you have it zeroed at 25M, carefully click down the peep till it stops, counting the clicks.  Write  down the number of clicks.  Now, go back UP the same number of clicks, loosen the screw, and turn the drum till the "200" mark is opposite the index mark.   Don't let the aperture move; apply some lateral pressure  to it.

If you goof up, no problem.  You have your magic 200-yd zero's clicks-from-bottom written down, remember?  Just start over.

Tighten the screw.  Run the aperture all the way up, and press down with your thumb.  If the peep doesn't move down, you've tightened at least enough.  Tighten too much, and you won't be able to click the peep up or down with the knob at all.

If you've done this whole thing, and done it right, your rifle is now zeroed for all good quality GI milsurp.  If you see a target at 600 yds, just dial up the peep to 600 and drop it.  You also have maximum windage adjustment in both directions of travel, if you should ever need it.  Barring damage to the rifle or sights, or a change from GI ball, you should never have to re-calibrate the sights again.

Oh, and one other thing.  MAKE SURE to verify this at 200 yds ASAP, while all this is still fresh in your mind.  The 25M business gets you very close, but nothing beats real-world confirmation.