I have been thinking of getting a McMillian MFS-14 stock for my SOCOM. Called them and was about to mail them a check. 12 week wait. Then the reality hit me. The $890 price tag is just insane. And that does not include the bedding!!!! I think I would rather get another rifle for that price.

I have my SOCOM in a wooden stock that is a folder. My only difficulty is that the butt of the stock also folds up - which is kind of cool, except that it seems to fold up sometimes during firing. I think for $890 I'll see if I can figure out how to keep it from folding up.

Too bad I cannot just get the folding mechanism that McMillian uses and put it on my stock. It would be really cool to put an AR-15 collapseable stock on what I currently got that can fold. Anyone know where I can get such a mechanism?

Hmmm - found once Ace makes. Might do the trick!

www.aceltdusa.com/adapters.htm

Have you looked into the SAGE Chop Mod stock.
Less than $700 bedded - no folder - less weight - more flexability in buttstock choices...

You could go the sage route (the one that uses the 6 position AR stocks) and swap the ACE folder on but you would still be out close to a garand. The only bonus is no bedding involved and you have picatinny rails galore on it for sights and what not.

I am sure the McMillian stock weighs quite a bit and I know the sage weighs a lot (I had one) so it cancels out one reason for the short compact rifle like the Socom which is less weight in my opinion.

securityarms.com/sale/sage/sagestocks.htm

http://securityarms.com/sale/sage/sagestocks.htm

Security Arms has the Sage Stock with all the optional accessories and the integrated, non-AR15 stock, for $650 plus shipping.  That's the best price I've found so far.

Interesting idea - go with the Sage and modify it to be a folder. But by the time I do all that, I'll be close to what the McMillian costs.

I am going to see if I can find any synthetic or wood stocks with a grip on them and see if I can modify them. Basically saw off the stock and add the ace adapter. I know I could do that for wood but not sure if I could do that on glass. But glass would be lighter I think.

Figure a hundred or so for a surplus stock, another 200 for the adapter and ACE SOCOM collapsable ar-15 stock, and I am there.

If anyone knows of M1A stocks that have grips on them, please post.

Only stock I know of is the M14E2 wood pistol grip stocks and by hacking one of those rare stocks up you might get tarred and feathered. lol  


Here is something I found on assault web by a member there making a folder.  
www.assaultweb.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=004038

Instructions as requested ... don't know how to post photos to this site??? will try to post photos on my website.
LAZ1

M-14 Carbine/Folding Stock do-it-yourself Instructions:

Before you get started you should know a few things about folding stocks on M-14s. For some people, the folder may give a cheek weld that is too high to comfortably use iron sights. If you mount the folder so that it slopes down when extended, shooting recoil will probably slam the top tube into your cheek with enough force to HURT. Mounting the folder straight to the bore, or even sloping slightly upwards works better to maximize comfort during recoil. And, while the folder makes the rifle a lot more versatile, it does change the way the rifle balances. The folding stock M-14 balances best for me when I also chop back some of the barrel.

You can make your own M-14 folder for a lot less than the price of a Springfield folder. First get a Butler Creek folder for the Winchester 1200 shotgun, and a GI WOOD stock. The Winchester stock profile, with a shallow "V" notch, may seem like it is more work to duplicate, but the Winchester style are wider at the mount, and give the best results. The Butler Creek folder is a bit shorter than the Choate, and fits better for people of average size. The BC is also cheaper than the Choate, and the ones I've handled recently seem to lock up as tightly, or even better than the Choate. With most of these locking mechanisms, the original issue spring seems to soften with age, which is what makes the lock sloppy. Replacing with a heavier spring will keep the lock mechanism rigid.

Lay out the “V” notch behind the receiver on the GI wood stock so that the trigger is the right distance from the pistol grip, and so that the top of the folder, when extended, is close to parallel with the top of the action. Check that when folded the top tube of the folder is BELOW the action screw on the right side of the M-14 stock. Later you will be removing some wood here, to relieve the stock for the top tube when folded.

After you have the notch duplicated on your M-14 GI WOOD stock, disassemble the Butler Creek folder. You will see two holes in the pistol grip/bracket. I use two 1 1/2" long thin black drywall screws here. Be careful when drilling for the screws that you don't drill at an angle into the receiver area. Mix up some epoxy, smear it over mounting surfaces and screws, and screw down the mounting block.

After the epozy has set up, wrap some duct tape around the pistol grip mounting part, take a 1/2 round rasp and start whittling until the M-14 stock blends into the Butler Creek pistol grip. Reassemble the folder to the mounting block, and close the folder. You will see that the top tube interferes with the right side of the M-14 stock. Take the 1/2 round rasp, and relieve this area until the stock closes. Clean off all old finish [ the oven cleaner trick ] sand to clean dry raw wood to provide a good foundation for paint. Paint interior with Black hi temperature “stove” paint. Paint exterior with "Truck Bed Liner" paint, which gives an "orange peel" mottled finish that is durable and attractive. Be careful not to build up too much paint at bedding surfaces as this can change accuracy and/or the trigger pull [ possibly to the point of making the action unsafe ].
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The folder looks and balances best on an M-14 carbine, with a shortened 18 ½” to 20" barrel. Before whacking a chunk off of your M-14 barrel, check legal requirements as to minimum barrel length and min. OAL. 16 " or 18 1/2" will probably be the legal minimum barrel length, depending if you are Yankee or Canuck. If adding a folding stock, check for minimum legal OAL, and if a pistol grip folder is legal in your jurisdiction. Realistically, for 7.62 NATO, 18 ½” is about the optimum compromise… any slight gain in handling by going shorter is offset by massive increases in muzzle blast and decreases in velocity. If you really want to duplicate 7.62X39 Russian ballistics in your M-14, why not just buy a Ruger Mini-30?

As for accuracy with the M-14, you'll probably find that the barrel plays only a small part in overall performance. If the crowning is done properly, there will probably be negligible accuracy changes due to cutting the barrel. For the simplest shorty, and to allow restoring to original, just take off the original GI front sight/flash hider from the 22” barrel. If you are mounting a scope, there is no real need for a front sight. If a front sight is required, the easiest to install is the Smith “NAVY” Gas Cylinder Lock design, which looks very much like an H & K front sight.

You want to be careful when cutting a GI CHROME lined barrel. To do the job professionally, you’ll need a lathe, a barrel vice, and an action wrench. Pull the barrel, strip it, and set it up in the lathe. The muzzle end should be supported with a live center, with the barrel also supported near the cut with a rotating rest. With a chromed barrel, make the initial cut a bit forward of desired finished length, and plug the barrel at the cutoff point with a bullet. Use a sharp carbide bit and work from the inside to the outside to finish the crown. Otherwise, the chrome can flake off while being worked, and this would NOT be a good thing for accuracy.

Then, if desired, turn a 1/2" X 28 TPI shoulder at the muzzle to fit a standard AR-15 Flash hider. One of Smith's AR-15/ .30 Caliber muzzle brakes could be substituted here. [ Note I said .30 Cal, not .22 Cal ]. If you prefer a longer sight radius or don't want to thread the end of the barrel, I have fitted some of these carbines with Choate Mini-30 combination Front Sight/Bird Cage "slip on" flash hiders. This requires turning the inside of the Choate part to match the OD of your barrel at the cutoff point. I can't give you exact dimensions here, as cutoff point and barrel OD variations will determine the final size. This method gives a very professional appearance, which closely duplicates the original …in miniature. However, in reality, any "Flash elimination " from either of these shorty flash hiders is negligible.

To get the open sights to work with a shorty barrel, the rear sight aperature leg may need to be ground down as much as possible, to allow it to travel lower. Leave enough at the end to prevent the rear sight from coming all the way out if raised too high. You will probably find that the Choate front sight is still much too low. If you have access to a milling machine, you can mill the top ears of the Choate front sight into a dovetail which is an exact copy of the M-14 front sight mounting block. This closely duplicates the original in appearance. The Smith front sight has a removable/adjustable post, which should be close in height, however with the Smith you do get slightly shorter sight radius.



Another guy on warrifles made a pistol grip out of a synthetic stock so you could follow that and add the side fold of choice.  
www.warrifles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11186&highlight=pistol+grip

OK bro, we have a project.  I was going to get another USGI synthetic, in the 30-35 range and one of those couplers.  Then do chop and channel and walla, we should be able to end up with a synthetic folding M1A stock for under $180.

That is my plan.

Fred suggested I buy a 'bare-wood' (liner and front ferrule only, no buttpad, no front or rear swivel) M14E2 pistol-grip stock and cut it and add the Ace adapter.

Guess you guys are not going to be happy if I chop one of these up!

Quoted: Fred suggested I buy a 'bare-wood' (liner and front ferrule only, no buttpad, no front or rear swivel) M14E2 pistol-grip stock and cut it and add the Ace adapter. Guess you guys are not going to be happy if I chop one of these up!

WHAT!!!!!! Bahhhhhhh        If it doesnt have the fore grip and buttplate then I guess it's ok as those parts are almost impossible to get anyway. To hack up a complete one would be very bad though!!!!

I knew it was a sin - so I have good news. Went to the Central Flordia Arms show today and saw a Sage setup on a SOCOM-16. I am going to go with the sage now that I have caressed it.

No worries - I'm nota sinner.

Build Your Own?

One USGI birch stock, and the rear half of any Butler Creek folding stock, and voila...



The grip was from an old underfolding stock from the early 80's.  HTH.

Paladin

oops!