I went with a scout scope type rail that replaced the upper HG.  I've never looked back.  Since the scout scope rail serves to add stiffness to the barrel, it is part of an effective mini-14 accurization regime.

I used the Ultimak scout rail, as it was significantly lower than the Amega Ranges counterpart.  Take it from me, when mounting a forward optic, make every possible effort to get the optic as low as humanly possible.  Height of optic makes a huge negative difference if optic is too high, even by a small amount.

To OP's question.  I had a B-Square mount, and found that it was cheap, very soft aluminum, and took some fussing to get it aligned properly.  The leveling of the mount is important, but becomes even more so if a variable power scope is used.  That is, a small error at close range at low power increases greatly at long range using a higher magnification.  Leveling screws, and attachment screw, MUST be loc-tited.  While I'm sure the somewhat similar GG&G is far better made, note that both mounts share the very negative trait of mounting the scope way too high, thus requiring the use of a tall cheek-riser to obtain a decent cheek weld.  If the riser is not easily removable, then you will find it difficult/impossible to use the iron sites.

ETA:  The OEM sight adjustment screws have 1.5 MOA increments of adjustment.  Some people (not saying OP) assume the increments are 1 MOA, and have some problems sighting-in.