The proper way to build a home vault/gun room

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - The proper way to build a home vault/gun room (Page 1 of 4)

Posted: 11/6/2009 4:27:08 PM EDT

Been working on plans and ideas for almost a year now, and today the majority of the work was finished. I've spent a lot of time browsing this forum, looking for info an ideas, but like anything you hear/read online, its best to do your own home work.

This is part of a new home build, so it was from the start a made from scratch job. The first thing I can suggest to anyone thinking of building a vault is to forget everything you read on line, and hire a real structural engineer to design it. Give the engineer the drawings of where you want it and let him tell you your options. This cost me $800, to have my vault engineered but he brought up points and ideas that the builder and the foundation guy wouldnt have.

Going off the drawings, knowing how much weight we're talking about with the reinforced 8' walls, the vault has its own reinforced footers.

After the footers were set the forms went together for the walls.

The next day the forms came down and I could see the walls.

The black stuff is the waterproofing, the yellow stuff is some moisture resistant stuff, and it will be top offed with 6' of stone back fill. Doing about everything we can to make sure it stays dry.

Once the walls set, it was time for the top.

8 more inches on the top.

It was amazing watching how fast those guys moved and smoothed it out. After it sets a day they'll be back for relief cuts.

The stainless steel they used for the deck looks pretty cool from inside. I also had them add a drain for the dehumidifier. Still thinking about what to do with the interior walls. They will be studded, insulated and covered, but not sure with what yet.

The floor gets poured next week, and the door will be installed the day the framing begins. The door is coming from Smith Security Safes (local guy), who makes some really cool vault doors.

Posted: 11/6/2009 4:34:19 PM EDT

[#1]

Nice. BTW....this is actually a tag for future pics. And, i am looking forward to them.

Posted: 11/6/2009 4:36:56 PM EDT

[#2]

Very nice. If you don't mind me asking, whats something like that set you back? (after the $800 for the engineer of course).

Posted: 11/6/2009 4:54:30 PM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
Very nice. If you don't mind me asking, whats something like that set you back? (after the $800 for the engineer of course).

The yet to be installed door cost me $4K. Its a monster.
All the work is being done by friends/customers for basically material costs, so YMMV.
The extra footers, extra rebar, the extra beam to support the deck, and plumbing cost me less than the combined total for the 2 Franklin Safes I'm currently using. With the door, I'll be out of pocket almost $7K. I have buyers for my 2 Franklins, so I'll get most of that money back - compare the cost/sq foot of those safes to the 18'x11' vault and its a bargain

Posted: 11/6/2009 5:01:23 PM EDT

[#4]

Also - for those emailing me who think its stupid to post this here. I'm only posting/showing what is in plain sight for anyone around to see. Anyone who knows I own the local gun shop is going to know I have a "safe" - and I hope they see this as a deterrant. Anyone wanting to get into this is basically going to have to destroy the house to get the industrial equipment into the basement needed to go through the wall. There are also going to be a few more layers of electronic security that I'll keep private. So, no I dont think I'm risking anything showing this on the interweb.

Posted: 11/6/2009 5:10:51 PM EDT

[#5]

the only thing that is stupid is people that think that anyone could get through 8 inches of concrete.

what psi is the concrete and what size rebar you use?

that is a serious vault.

Posted: 11/6/2009 5:34:48 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Also - for those emailing me who think its stupid to post this here. I'm only posting/showing what is in plain sight for anyone around to see. Anyone who knows I own the local gun shop is going to know I have a "safe" - and I hope they see this as a deterrant. Anyone wanting to get into this is basically going to have to destroy the house to get the industrial equipment into the basement needed to go through the wall. There are also going to be a few more layers of electronic security that I'll keep private. So, no I dont think I'm risking anything showing this on the interweb.

I would say you got a helluva deal. I would have figured in the neighborhood of 25 or 30K, very nice.

Tag for future pics.

Posted: 11/6/2009 5:57:16 PM EDT

[#7]

Mine's not quite nearly as fancy as yours but it's along the same lines:

Posted: 11/6/2009 6:00:36 PM EDT

[#8]

tagg

Posted: 11/6/2009 6:10:47 PM EDT

[#9]

That's awesome. I hope to have one someday.

Posted: 11/6/2009 7:00:57 PM EDT

[#10]

very nice.

Never seen a foundation poured like that with the brick pattern. Pretty cool.

Posted: 11/7/2009 5:17:34 AM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:

what psi is the concrete and what size rebar you use?

4000psi class C concrete
#7 rebar in the walls/roof/pads

Posted: 11/7/2009 5:40:59 AM EDT

[#12]

Big bore,

Just building my house and working on finishing up my basement. I would recommend a good closed cell foam for all your below grade applications, It has the lowest PERM (moisture resistance rating) Its practically Vapor proof.

We did this for all our below grade walls and did open cell foam for the rest of the above grade home. I have to say I am very very pleased with my utility bills compared to all of my neighbors.

You can also get a kit to do your vault yourself.
Closed Cell
open cell

Hope this helps

Posted: 11/7/2009 5:48:47 AM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:

Quoted:

what psi is the concrete and what size rebar you use?

4000psi class C concrete
#7 rebar in the walls/roof/pads

yeah no one is getting through that with out a backhoe with a jack hammer attachment

Posted: 11/7/2009 1:46:30 PM EDT

[#14]

nice well thought out bunker/ safe.........

Posted: 11/8/2009 4:01:57 AM EDT

[#15]

Electric?

Sure its been thought of but didnt see any stubbs or pass through.

Posted: 11/8/2009 5:42:21 AM EDT

[#16]

whats with the big red beam?

is that to support the stainless till the concrete dries? Im not sure there was a reason to have that there. seems like you could have designed the concrete structures properly and avoided the use of that monster.

Posted: 11/8/2009 6:13:49 AM EDT

[#17]

this is not a tag

Posted: 11/8/2009 6:44:29 AM EDT

[#18]

Posted: 11/8/2009 3:26:56 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
whats with the big red beam?

is that to support the stainless till the concrete dries? Im not sure there was a reason to have that there. seems like you could have designed the concrete structures properly and avoided the use of that monster.

The engineer put the beam in the print, so its in the build. Its there for good. I didnt question/ask if there was another way without it, If its not necessary to hold up 19x12 slab of 8" concrete, I dont know a dman thing about construction. Its 6" above my head so I just look at it as over head shelving.

Posted: 11/8/2009 4:04:38 PM EDT

[#20]

Thanks for the post bigbore; very interesting thread. I have a few questions. The continuous rebar sections do not appear tied into the wall on at least one side as apparent in the photo, even though holes were drilled for them. Is that correct, or are they actually stuck in a lower set of holes? Maybe the first row was too high? By any chance could you provide a copy of the Basement Vault/Foundation Plan drawing with enough resolution to read the details? I have some questions, but that would probably answer all of them. Thanks.

Posted: 11/9/2009 6:17:47 AM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:
Thanks for the post bigbore; very interesting thread. I have a few questions. The continuous rebar sections do not appear tied into the wall on at least one side as apparent in the photo, even though holes were drilled for them. Is that correct, or are they actually stuck in a lower set of holes? Maybe the first row was too high? By any chance could you provide a copy of the Basement Vault/Foundation Plan drawing with enough resolution to read the details? I have some questions, but that would probably answer all of them. Thanks.

They made some rebar thing for the front the top to deal with something involving the door frame. It all came to together at the end. The hi-res plans are going to stay a secret

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:04:23 PM EDT

[#22]

The floor went in Monday, and the door today.

1600lbs of door.

it fit like a glove

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:16:22 PM EDT

[#23]

Is there going to be power in there? You mentioned a dehumidifier so I would assume you need at least one outlet and some lights. Conduit from the panel to the safe under the slab perhaps?

Anyway to get out from the inside if the door was closed?

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:21:34 PM EDT

[#24]

Power and plumbing are taken care of.

There is a handle on the inside too.

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:25:20 PM EDT

[#25]

tag

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:28:33 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:
Power and plumbing are taken care of.

There is a handle on the inside too.

Cool. Climate controlled in there?

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:34:38 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Power and plumbing are taken care of.

There is a handle on the inside too.

Cool. Climate controlled in there?

No, not for now. I dont think its needed, but I have a plan if necessary. I'll have almost 6 months of watching it before I move in.

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:46:14 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Power and plumbing are taken care of.

There is a handle on the inside too.

Cool. Climate controlled in there?

No, not for now. I dont think its needed, but I have a plan if necessary. I'll have almost 6 months of watching it before I move in.

You GCing the project yourself?

Posted: 11/12/2009 5:58:25 PM EDT

[#29]

Thanks for sharing Big Bore.

I'm thinking along the same lines. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Posted: 11/12/2009 6:04:54 PM EDT

[#30]

Quoted:

You GCing the project yourself?

what's GC?

Posted: 11/12/2009 6:18:42 PM EDT

[#31]

general contracting

Posted: 11/12/2009 6:18:48 PM EDT

[#32]

Quoted:

Quoted:

You GCing the project yourself?

what's GC?

I think he means are you the general contractor?

Posted: 11/12/2009 6:20:08 PM EDT

[#33]

If you don't mind me asking; how does a vault door like that secure to the walls? Epoxy? Lag bolts drilled through? I didn't see any studs on teh door jamb itself, nor ports in the concrete.

Although gravity might work; I don't know officer, I came home and found these two guys smooshed under 4000 lbs of door

Posted: 11/12/2009 7:51:35 PM EDT

[#34]

Good looking door, I would suggest attaching a tarp in front of it though, in my experience things like that will have something fall into them and scratch them during the build process.

Posted: 11/13/2009 1:35:43 AM EDT

[#35]

No, I'm not going any of the GCing myself.

The frame is held in place by 4 plates that sandwich it it between the wall.

We scheduled the dor installation for the same day the framing began, so the floor is already over it. No worries about dropping anything on it, and no one can see it walking by.

Posted: 11/13/2009 5:29:26 AM EDT

[#36]

Very well planned & thought out build. If you don't mind me asking, what will the interior walls be finished with?

Posted: 11/13/2009 7:11:04 AM EDT

[#37]

Basements, I miss them.

Did you have some conduit placed in the forms before pouring? I didn't see it

Posted: 11/13/2009 3:06:08 PM EDT

[#38]

Bigbore.... I have a plan for a basement vault myself. I like the guys at Smith, that's were I'll be getting my door.

One thing I will be doing different, My door will be opening to the inside. That way if there is a tornado the family can go into the vault and shut the door and still be able to get out if the house is collapsed all around them.

Very nice project... thanks for sharing!

Posted: 11/13/2009 3:16:14 PM EDT

[#39]

Quoted:

Bigbore.... I have a plan for a basement vault myself. I like the guys at Smith, that's were I'll be getting my door.

One thing I will be doing different, My door will be opening to the inside. That way if there is a tornado the family can go into the vault and shut the door and still be able to get out if the house is collapsed all around them.

Very nice project... thanks for sharing!

Perhaps make it a recessed vault door so that you can put in a regular door in front of it so that it looks like a closet.

Posted: 11/14/2009 3:43:47 AM EDT

[#40]

That is COOL.

Posted: 11/14/2009 5:26:10 AM EDT

[#41]

Quoted:
One thing I will be doing different, My door will be opening to the inside. That way if there is a tornado the family can go into the vault and shut the door and still be able to get out if the house is collapsed all around them.

I looked at the inside opening too. If the house collapses in front of the door, you're still going to be trapped under the rubble. If I'm gonna have to be dug out either way, I'll take the extra space in the vault with the out opening door.

Posted: 11/14/2009 5:31:25 AM EDT

[#42]

Quoted:
Perhaps make it a recessed vault door so that you can put in a regular door in front of it so that it looks like a closet.

You dont think criminals look in closets? My door is surprisingly shallow and will be very easy to hide from the casual observer. I'm more concerned with folks like the cable guy who isnt "looking" through closets, but at the same time wouldnt think there is anything under the flag draped on the wall.

Posted: 11/14/2009 5:33:32 AM EDT

[#43]

Quoted:
Did you have some conduit placed in the forms before pouring? I didn't see it

they are there in places that wont be obvious once everythig is done.

Posted: 11/14/2009 5:36:42 AM EDT

[#44]

Quoted:
If you don't mind me asking, what will the interior walls be finished with?

I dont kow yet. The walls will be studded and insulated, but I'm still thinking about what to use. Initial plans were drywall, but with all the hole and hooks I'll be using, plywood may be a better idea, and then again slat board would look nicer...
I've got until April to decide.

Posted: 11/14/2009 7:09:49 AM EDT

[#45]

Quoted:

Quoted:
If you don't mind me asking, what will the interior walls be finished with?

I dont kow yet. The walls will be studded and insulated, but I'm still thinking about what to use. Initial plans were drywall, but with all the hole and hooks I'll be using, plywood may be a better idea, and then again slat board would look nicer...
I've got until April to decide.

In underground locations I have used densglass and densarmor drywall. This is a drywall product that uses a fiberglass coating instead of a paper coating so that mold can not feed off of it. It's about 3-4 times the cost of regular drywall but the area you would need it in isn't really that large. I would recommend using that product and then you could do a row or two of slatboard over it.

Posted: 11/14/2009 9:46:45 PM EDT

[#46]

Quoted:

Quoted:

what psi is the concrete and what size rebar you use?

4000psi class C concrete
#7 rebar in the walls/roof/pads

Since I can only tell slightly from your pictures It looks like a 8 or 10 inch wall and the rebar looks like #4 # 7 bars are thicker
unless you watched the foundation crew install them or Iron Workers do it . I would be suspect
But that is 1 hell of a room I am jealous