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Posted: 4/28/2009 2:58:03 PM EDT
I'm trying to keep costs down so I want to know how many glass break sensors I need.

Layout:  My living room is on the front of the house.  Dining room is on the back of the house.  Kitchen is next to the dining room on the back of the house.  There is a full height wall that runs between the living room and the kitchen with a cased opening on one side.  There is no wall between the dining room and the living room.  There is no wall between the dining room and the kitchen.  So its pretty open.  From the front of my house to the back of my house is around 28 feet.  My front door and back door have a good bit of glass in them.  I also have windows in the front wall of the living room, the side wall of the dining room and the back wall of the kitchen at the sink.

So can I place one glass break sensor (Ademco) that senses 25 feet on one side of the wall between the kitchen and living room and cover glass break on this area?  Do the glass break sensors need to be facing the windows and doors or can they just be in proximity to them?

Next area.  We have three bedrooms.  two on the front of the house and the master on the back of the house.  There is a hallway between.  There is one window in each of the guest bedrooms on the front of the house.  The master has one window on the back of the house.  Can I place a glass break sensor on the ceiling of the hallway to sense for all three bedrooms?  From the front of the house to the back is about 28 feet.  So the furthest distance to the windows from the hallway is about 15-17 feet.

Now a couple of other questions about glass break sensors.  will a dog barking in the house set them off?  If I leave the TV on inside and it makes the sound of breaking glass will it set the sensor off?

Thanks,
Matt


Link Posted: 4/28/2009 3:11:44 PM EDT
[#1]
No the glass break does not have to face the window the range is 25 ft line of site.
When I install a glass break I like to face the window being protected but that is my preferance.
The glass break in the hall will not work you would need one in each room.
fwiw   I prefer motion detectors instead of glass breaks I believe you can cover a bigger area

eta no the dog or the tv will not set it off Ademco Gb have a sensitivity adjustment
Link Posted: 4/28/2009 4:15:50 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
No the glass break does not have to face the window the range is 25 ft line of site.
When I install a glass break I like to face the window being protected but that is my preferance.
The glass break in the hall will not work you would need one in each room.
fwiw   I prefer motion detectors instead of glass breaks I believe you can cover a bigger area

eta no the dog or the tv will not set it off Ademco Gb have a sensitivity adjustment


I plan to have a motion sensor upstairs and downstairs in the hallway.  I like the glass break sensors because I could keep them on during a "Stay" mode.  So at night when we're home I could keep them armed in combination with door and window sensors.

Thanks for the info.  It is not easy trying to understand all of the alarm system components and how they work.  So much technology that is constantly evolving and so much technology that has yet to evolve.

Link Posted: 4/28/2009 4:39:08 PM EDT
[#3]
One thing to remember is that GBD's are about 90 to 95% effective, and can false in heavy lighting storms.
Link Posted: 4/28/2009 6:24:34 PM EDT
[#4]
I hate GBs!   Thunder will "pop" them and I have a Macaw (big Parrot) and in the afternoon when she gets loud she will Set them off and I really hate when the installers put them in the bathroom!  that is usually a small fixed window on the blind side of the house so it makes sense right?  The acoustics in there and glass shower door conspire to make false alarms.   Heavy drapes will kill the effectiveness of them.  Foos basin in the parking lot can bring the black helicopters but usually long after the bonehead is gone
Depending on your budget there are some films that will give you solar protection and can't be broken.  Hit it with a hammer and the head just gets hung up in it and keep hitting it and it becomes a tangled sharp mess,  a sawzall would make short work of it but most bad guys will quit before that.
Good luck.
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 4:16:38 AM EDT
[#5]
Shock sensors are another option for the glass. Of course you'd need to wire each one.
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 5:46:12 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Shock sensors are another option for the glass. Of course you'd need to wire each one.


This would not work for my case.  The front door has 12 individual panes of glass.  Back door is one single pane.  

Might not be a bad idea on the bedroom windows though.
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 5:48:11 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
One thing to remember is that GBD's are about 90 to 95% effective, and can false in heavy lighting storms.


I suppose I could always just keep the GBD's on a separate zone and bypass it on days that a Thunderstorm is coming through town.
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 2:55:35 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
One thing to remember is that GBD's are about 90 to 95% effective, and can false in heavy lighting storms.


I suppose I could always just keep the GBD's on a separate zone and bypass it on days that a Thunderstorm is coming through town.


Thunderstorms should not be setting off your GB.If they do they are either old or not adjusted right

Link Posted: 4/29/2009 4:05:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
One thing to remember is that GBD's are about 90 to 95% effective, and can false in heavy lighting storms.


I suppose I could always just keep the GBD's on a separate zone and bypass it on days that a Thunderstorm is coming through town.


Thunderstorms should not be setting off your GB.If they do they are either old or not adjusted right



Unfortunately a lot of GBD new and old false.
Link Posted: 4/30/2009 1:05:04 AM EDT
[#10]
You can buy a tester pretty cheaply that mimics the sound of glass breaking.  I bought one when I set up my system.  I tested the GB sensor in different place to get the best response from the two rooms I wanted it to cover.
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