Hey guys, never owned a Tavor before and starting to shop used guns. Anything I should be on the lookout for? Specific use/ care questions I should be asking?

Thanks!

The only real mechanical issue is a bent or broken charging handle.   If you don’t follow the proper disassembly procedure you can damage the charging handle or break the disassembly lock.   Those are the most common problems but only if you completely disassemble the rifle to change caliber.

Taking down the bolt carrier group and firing pin spring are not difficult to take apart for cleaning but helps to have the manual the first time.  The SAR is a robust design and very reliable.   Sometimes the bolt catch lever can be dislodge with the FCG removed.   The bolt catch lever just fits in a paticular manner but isn’t a real issue.   I read the newest Tavor SAR were going to ship with the X95 trigger pack.   I’m not sure any late production SAR shipped with the newer trigger pack.

The SAR original trigger pack is usable but reminds me of a New York Trigger pull in a Glock.   I bought a Geissele Super Sabra trigger group for my SAR.   I have not invested in the new Geissele trigger lightening bow as I feel the Super Sabra trigger pack is very good.   Shooting Sight also sells a trigger pack for the SAR which very good.   The Timney trigger packs had reported problems with FTF whereas the Geissele and Shooting Sight are gtg.   IWI modified the trigger packs to fit several different firearms so an older Geissele or SS trigger pack might not fit a newer Tavor SAR.   Geissele and SS modified the trigger packs for free to fit the later changes in the Tavor.   The newest trigger packs are backward compatible.    Some people have felt  using the Lightening bow with the factory trigger pack made enough improvement to not warrant buying the trigger pack.

Only other issue is the mounting rail which runs the length of the top of the rifle is not a true 1913 spec rail.  Using a Larue scope mount can damage the mount.   The rail also sits lower compared to an AR-15.   You need a lower 1/3 mount to get exact co-witness with the Tavor SAR.  Mnticore Arms and Midwest Industries sell raised rails to make the rail the same height as an AR-15.   Some scope mounts feel to low with the Tavor factory rail.

There were a few reports of the angeled front rail opposite the charging handle not being rigid or coming loose.   This has never been an issue on my Tavor.  I have a Tactical light attached to this rail and it is gtg.    I also put a sling swivel stud in the hole in the front hand guard.  The hole is threaded and accepts an accessory rail or sling/bipod stud.   I use a Harris bipod attached to this stud when shooting from the bench.

I tried my Strike Eagle in a Vortex CM-202 mount on my Tavor.   The CM-202 mount gave the proper height but I just prefer my E O Tech for how I use my Tavor.   In shooting my Tavor I get about 2-2.5 MOA with 55 grain FMJ and the best accuracy I’ve gotten is with reloaded 69 grain SMK.   I tried 75 and 77 grain match bullets but they didn’t shoot as good as 69 grain SMK.    Where the Tavor shines is in CQB and around vehicles.

As far as things to look out for the above poster covered the most of it. Check the gun cycles smoothly when using the charging handle (I bent mine in a X95 and it wouldn't even cycle the bolt), check for accesive/unusual ware are on the bolt and bolt carrier. Check the barrel lock isn't damaged (another part that is easy to break if you don't follow the instructions). Check all the pushpins are snug yet can be pushed freely.

As for aftermarket  parts don't forget Gear Head Works. Their folding charging handle is the bees knees (from what I have heard the other on the market are rubbish). The ejection port cover has a QD mount that is perfect placement for using a single point sling and their top rails were the first (and best) on the market. I don't have a problem with the rail height so factory for me. Of the replacement foregrips I prefer GHW as well and have them on my Tavors with Surefires installed internally (if your going to do this make sure the light you are using is a front battery replacement type) for a sleek and uncluttered foregrip.

Both of my Tavors have Shooting Sight LE hammer packs with Giessele Lighting Bow triggers for a super crisp almost single stage feeling trigger. I wouldn't recommend using the LB with the standard SS hammer pack as some owners have indicated that results in a 2lbish trigger.

The Gear Head Works ejection port cover is the thing to have too.  Especially if you're going to be shooting suppressed at all.  Unless, you know, you're into carbon face.

It puts a sling QD at right about the proper location for a single point too.

What the guy with the long post said.

I have the Super Sabre pack and love it. I haven't gotten around to the trigger bow, but will add it at some point.

As far as the riser. I didn't need anything when I had the first Burris MTAC scope on it, but I didn't like the big center dot reticle in it, and wanted something different. I bought a Strike Eagle, and I couldn't get a good sight picture, and had to buy a Manticore Arms riser rail. I had issues with the Strike Eagle, and Burris was offering the MTAC with a doughnut type reticle similar to the SE, and I sold the SE and bought the Burris. Worlds better, and got it on a deal for the same price as the SE, about $280. The MTAC has the same glass as the Burris XTRs that can run $1000.

The eye relief on the Burris is 4.0" and on the SE it's only 3.5". On an AR it makes almost no difference, but on the Tavor it's huge.

I haven't mounted it back on the factory rail, but I'm going to just to see if I like it better than on the riser. I had all the scopes mounted in a Burris PEPR QD mount.

One other thing, is don't screw around with the lights. Just go ahead and get the MI or the Manticore Arms Fore end and mount the light in it under the barrel.

I'm still running a light mounted on the side rail, but , I do have an aftermarket fore end. I just haven't had the cash to get the front end cap for the light and a new light. I have one of the huge 750 Lumen PA lights on it now.

I had an Inforce that I liked, but with the SE the glass was so bad in low and no light that I had to put the big one back on it. With the Burris I could see fine. I live out in the country and shoot foxes and coons and things and they'll be running. I can't see good to begin with, but tracking them in the SE was terrible. I had the 400 lumen one and it wasn't enough. It was more than enough with the Burris.

Balance is severely negatively affected with the big light.

You'll need to get used to the really high sight height over bore with the Tavor. Once you get used to it it's fine, but it takes time.

One thing you can do is have a short distance zero when you know all you'll be doing is about 50 yards and under, and then a battle sight zero or a zero for the scope you're using, like the 100 yard zero on most BDC types. The scopes will not be dead on yardage wise. The difference in sight height over bore will change the impact a few inches at distance. For instance, the 400 yard mark will be about 20 yards off. It will still be only inches off, so it isn't bad.

Great info guys! Thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail.

What’s your preferred barrel length?

I gather none of you would hesitate to snag a used Tavor.

Great ideas about modifications as well.

16".

No need to go over, minimal velocity gain, and the end of the barrel is about where a pistol barrel would be if you were shooting a pistol, and is actually closer to you depending on your shooting style.

A 16" Tavor is the same overall length as a 10.5" barreled AR15, but without the major loss of velocity. The 5.56 is a cartridge that is velocity dependent for its wounding mechanism, even when using projectiles designed to expand.  .224 cal projectiles are almost all designed to expand consistently at velocities from a 20 inch barrel. Anything under that cuts your effective range. 16" is not so bad of a drop off, but anything under that is very limiting.
Most are designed to expand down to 1800-2000fps, though some are designed a bit lower.

With a 55gr Hornady TAP

With a 16" barrel that gives you about 275 yards.

With a 14.5" it's about 250 yards.

With a 10.5" its about 200 yards.

Now, that isn't maximum performance, that's minimum.

My only hesitation would be that I don't need another one.

My second one was acquired in a trade and was used. Added some aftermarket parts from GHW, Shooting Sight and Geissele. No problems.

I'm going to disagree with this point. I tried the aftermarket handguard with the light mounted inside it. What I found was that the muzzle device blocks part of the light, and instead of a round light pattern, it's a crescent shape with the opening to the top. With a suppressor it gets to the point of the sights looking into that shadow cast by the can.

OP: I will reiterate one thing that Aussie_E pointed out: CHECK!. Every used rifle on the internet is "like new" and has only had enough rounds fired through it to zero/confirm function/break in/etc. If you don't LOOK at the gun before buying, you deserve what you get. In a more common platform such as AR or 1911, from a reputable dealer, I might take their word for it. However, not everyone knows what to look for in a Tavor.