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Posted: 8/9/2020 9:03:30 PM EDT
[#1]
The one I’ve used is finicky and drinks batteries.
Good luck, OP. I hope you can get it going again. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 9:31:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The one I’ve used is finicky and drinks batteries. Good luck, OP. I hope you can get it going again. Yeah they eat AAs for sure. I wound up buying the best AA lithiums I could find and now I’m set in that department. Times like this make me wish my soldering skills were better. 
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Posted: 8/9/2020 9:36:18 PM EDT
[#3]
wow-thought those things were the shit. Sounds like I will stick with my $50 pos chrony...
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:37:38 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted: Testing reloads for 10mm, the results of which were equally disappointing. Anyway, microphone jack broke so accelerometer trigger no longer functions. So going to take it apart and see what I find. I think @lazyengineer has opened his up, has anyone else opened theirs? I’m well outside of warranty so not worried about that. Bummer. I've pulled mine apart close to a dozen times; not much to it really. I have a drill with a torque knob on it, so I just torque it down to the minimum (1 or 2 ft-lb), for drilling the screws all back in; works good. But really, you' don't even need to worry about that - those screws are actually pretty good. As to the jack, I can't recall if it's mounted on a board, or is separate with wires. If it's wires, could be a really easy maybe, as the jacks are common as dirt, and you can pull one out of an old anything; maybe. I will say, manufacture IS pretty cool about offering to fix it for you; but by the time you're paying shipping both ways - it starts to strain the economics. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:53:57 PM EDT
[#5]
Okay guys, I fixed it, but not sure for how long. Maybe for good, maybe not.
First, a look at the jack. My Google Fu sucks when it comes to small electronics parts, but couldn’t find anything as a suitable replacement.  Attached FileUpon further inspection, clear cover is removable with finesse; I’d rather be lucky than good, and at least in this instance, I was lucky. Then played around to determine its method of operation. Long story short, when nothing is plugged in, the bottom left metal contact and the left leg touch (blue arrow), causing a closed circuit between red and white. The idea is, when you plug a jack in, It breaks that circuit and instead relies on newly created circuit. Mine wasn’t breaking the circuit as the support isn’t great in there and the pressure was torquing the jack, allowing the circuit to remain closed. I fixed it by bending the left leg such that the bump (red arrow) stuck out further, thus allowing more travel at the bottom, now enabling it to open the circuit. Tested in my basement with the trigger and it reads them now. Time will tell how long it lasts.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:54:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: wow-thought those things were the shit. Sounds like I will stick with my $50 pos chrony... Then I won't bore you with stories of my Magnetospeed error codes for the last 2 years... |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 1:18:01 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Okay guys, I fixed it, but not sure for how long. Maybe for good, maybe not. First, a look at the jack. My Google Fu sucks when it comes to small electronics parts, but couldn’t find anything as a suitable replacement. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/467079/F7A95AEC-CF32-442A-9778-EEC34AD98FAD_jpe-1539878.JPG Upon further inspection, clear cover is removable with finesse; I’d rather be lucky than good, and at least in this instance, I was lucky. Then played around to determine its method of operation. Long story short, when nothing is plugged in, the bottom left metal contact and the left leg touch (blue arrow), causing a closed circuit between red and white. The idea is, when you plug a jack in, It breaks that circuit and instead relies on newly created circuit. Mine wasn’t breaking the circuit as the support isn’t great in there and the pressure was torquing the jack, allowing the circuit to remain closed. I fixed it by bending the left leg such that the bump (red arrow) stuck out further, thus allowing more travel at the bottom, now enabling it to open the circuit. Tested in my basement with the trigger and it reads them now. Time will tell how long it lasts. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/467079/4709FD13-8AD5-41A6-AD6A-899672C03A9F_jpe-1539885.JPG what an odd electrical design. I'm glad you were able to fix it! |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 1:46:31 AM EDT
[#8]
I'm glad you were able to get it fixed.
All of a sudden that 15-20 minutes it takes me to unbox and get my Oehler 35P situated properly doesn't seem like too much time wasted. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 12:07:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: what an odd electrical design. I'm glad you were able to fix it! Huh? Every single phone jack I have ever seen works in that way with only minor variations on that theme. The quality issue seems to be one of the temper/hardness (springiness) of the conductors - they are slightly too soft and they deformed when used rather than flexed. It seems readily repairable (as you've done) and/or replaceable, possibly even by the manufacturer. Call and see if they know about the issue. Will they sell you a replacement part? If things got really bad, you could always eliminate the connector interface and permanently attach the accelerometer using a set of soldered joints. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 8:22:57 PM EDT
[#10]
Some good advice here. I own one but bought it from Brownells with their own lifetime warranty. No worries if mine goes tits up.
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Posted: 8/10/2020 8:31:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Some good advice here. I own one but bought it from Brownells with their own lifetime warranty. No worries if mine goes tits up. Good thinking. If I could go back and do it all over I'd have paid the slight premium to get it from Brownells. If this one ever craps the bed and cannot be fixed, that's likely what I'll do. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 9:04:29 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good thinking. If I could go back and do it all over I'd have paid the slight premium to get it from Brownells. If this one ever craps the bed and cannot be fixed, that's likely what I'll do. Yes to me paying a little more was worth it with their warranty. I also got my Chargmaster from them, but payed more for it. Will be worth it if I have to send it back. RCBS warranty is almost up in another couple weeks. |
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Posted: 8/11/2020 4:50:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah they eat AAs for sure. I wound up buying the best AA lithiums I could find..... |
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Posted: 8/11/2020 9:08:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anker Power Bank FTW I have four of those in my LabRadar case (smaller ones, only 2400mah each) - I prefer keeping the lithium AAs instead as I don't like the idea of repeatedly disconnecting and reconnecting the USB port. Turns out, my hunch that the input ports are weak isn't unfounded.
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Posted: 8/11/2020 9:31:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Before the whole covid thing took off here in the states, I bought one or two of these from Lowes :
 Do you know if those rechargeable lithiums will work with the LabRadar? |
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Posted: 8/11/2020 9:50:49 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Before the whole covid thing took off here in the states, I bought one or two of these from Lowes : https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/039800/039800121042.jpg Do you know if those rechargeable lithiums will work with the LabRadar? Those aren't lithium. They're NiMH. NiMH I seriously doubt it would have the voltage to properly drive it the unit. Not sure of the required input voltage but NiMH would only be pumping 3.6V vs. 4.5v+...it might work, but I don't have any NiMH to test. With Lithium AAs that are rechargeable, you have to be careful as the vast majority of them do not allow many of them in series; most limit it to two (as they use voltage regulators) - Blackube High Discharge are rated for up to 6 in series (LabRadar is actually a 2s3p configuration), but I splurged anyway. I've been SUPER happy with them (I actually bought 2 four packs...6 stay in my LR and the other two I rotate in my insulin pump). They aren't available anymore though (at least on Amazon) - not sure if it's an Amazon thing or if maybe they are coming out with a new version. |
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Posted: 8/14/2020 2:50:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those aren't lithium. They're NiMH. NiMH I seriously doubt it would have the voltage to properly drive it the unit. Not sure of the required input voltage but NiMH would only be pumping 3.6V vs. 4.5v+...it might work, but I don't have any NiMH to test. With Lithium AAs that are rechargeable, you have to be careful as the vast majority of them do not allow many of them in series; most limit it to two (as they use voltage regulators) - Blackube High Discharge are rated for up to 6 in series (LabRadar is actually a 2s3p configuration), but I splurged anyway. I've been SUPER happy with them (I actually bought 2 four packs...6 stay in my LR and the other two I rotate in my insulin pump). They aren't available anymore though (at least on Amazon) - not sure if it's an Amazon thing or if maybe they are coming out with a new version. Thanks for the reply! I will have to take a closer look at the packaging. I bought them because if my memory is correct my EZotech takes four of the double A’s. It seems to go through them quickly enough. |
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Posted: 8/15/2020 7:03:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Your LabRadar will have labeling telling what batteries and what voltages you need to feed it. If it comes with an AC adapter that will also have ratings on it.
If all else fails, call the LabRadar guys and ask. You can buy batteries or make your own battery pack. Just be sure you meet the voltage requirements for your unit. |
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Posted: 8/17/2020 7:39:06 PM EDT
[#19]
I run basic rechargeable's in my LabRadar. Runs fine. I guess they are NiMH; whatever the basic common rechargeable are today that fit on a standard charger.
Separately in other kit not related to LabRadar, I do run Li-Polymer AA's, which are the best rechargeables you can get. They run 3.7 V internal and have internal electronics in each battery to step it down to the correct 1.5V AA discharge. Which means they maintain the 1.5V each for a long long looooong time. (all others start at 1.5, and immediately start falling from there upon usage). They're recharged via a tiny microUSB slot in each AA battery. That's a whole other tech, and 4 of them cost $25. But for something you want to run a long time, and is voltage sensitive; those are the way to go. But no, I don't run those in my LabRadar - and don't recommend it. Basic Enolop's are fine for LabRadar, I get several hours run time. And then have a separate cell-phone charger battery pack in the bag as well. |
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Posted: 8/20/2020 2:22:30 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Huh? Every single phone jack I have ever seen works in that way with only minor variations on that theme. The quality issue seems to be one of the temper/hardness (springiness) of the conductors - they are slightly too soft and they deformed when used rather than flexed. It seems readily repairable (as you've done) and/or replaceable, possibly even by the manufacturer. Call and see if they know about the issue. Will they sell you a replacement part? If things got really bad, you could always eliminate the connector interface and permanently attach the accelerometer using a set of soldered joints. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: what an odd electrical design. I'm glad you were able to fix it! Huh? Every single phone jack I have ever seen works in that way with only minor variations on that theme. The quality issue seems to be one of the temper/hardness (springiness) of the conductors - they are slightly too soft and they deformed when used rather than flexed. It seems readily repairable (as you've done) and/or replaceable, possibly even by the manufacturer. Call and see if they know about the issue. Will they sell you a replacement part? If things got really bad, you could always eliminate the connector interface and permanently attach the accelerometer using a set of soldered joints. Many jacks use this method as SOP. It has been used for years on portable equipment to turn off a speaker when an ear bud is plugged in. |
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Posted: 8/20/2020 4:21:06 PM EDT
[#21]
Just FYI Labradar will take back and fix them and door to door its been less than 7 days for me. They usually ship it back the day they receive it. Mine had a fatal error where the card needed to be replaced and they just handled it. Not sure how old it is but probably 3 years or so.
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Posted: 9/9/2020 1:47:44 PM EDT
[#22]
Just to update, had a chance this weekend to run the repaired LabRadar. Ran great.
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Posted: 9/9/2020 2:08:27 PM EDT
[#23]
I've ran mine a couple times since I made the repair above, haven't had issues yet. Will be going out again on Saturday to test some more loads.
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