Best wife ever ordered a Hornady LNL AP For Christmas.  

I have been reloading single stage fir several years but this is my first time to load on a progressive.  I do shoot some local matches and mostly focus on accuracy.  I want to do sone volume loading but 150-200 rounds an hour would be a huge improvement.  

I load 308, 223, 65 Grendel, and 260 in the future.

I already have.
6.5 G hornady dies
223 lee die set
308 lee die set
308 ribs set

Universal deprimer - lee

I realize that the lee fies are less than ideal and may be too short.  I think the lock ring can alternately be placed on the bottom of the LNL bushing and solve this issue????

I can invest in other dies as needed.

What else do I need to purchase?

She'll plates?
Extra bushings


Advice, Tips,  and tricks are also appreciated.

I have watched lots of YouTube vids and that seems to be a good start on the LNL.

Somewhere I have a list of what I order for a gauge change.  I have mine set up to minimize any adjusting when swapping gauges.  Going from memory:

I have a complete set of quick change bushings for each die set that stay on the die and locked in. (don't know how you could do that with the ring below the bushing)
Shell plate
Dies - I have resize/deprime, seat, crimp.   I don't use a flare die for handgun.
PTX expander for powder measure - flares casing and drops powder
Pistol or Rifle insert for powder measure.  I have one for each caliber so I don't have to mess with anything more than minor adjusting.   The non-micrometer ones are cheap, and if you aren't dialing in for each caliber the micrometer ones are unnecessary.
Quick change powder die for each caliber.   Again - keep locked in place so there is no messing around when doing a caliber change.
Powder linkage gizmo - one comes with your press.  It helps maintain flare consistency using the ptx insert.

Depending on how much you do or don't want to mess with adjusting you can limit this and spend less money up front.  

Last time I checked I was into it about $120 + dies for a caliber conversion.  

I also have a manual bullet drop set up, so I'll order the hornady bullet drop die as well.

ETA:  I'm mostly set up for pistol on the LNL.  I have loaded  .223 on it, but I prefer to load rifle on my single stage.   Since you won't be using the PTX on rifle you could probably deal with not much more than the bushings, shell plate, and dies.  I like separate inserts for the powder rotor, but a micrometer insert would probably be fine.

One problem I encountered with the .223 was that the small pistol rotor wouldn't drop enough powder and the large rotor was too large and gave me inconsistent drops.    I took a small rotor and bored it out some and made a midsize rotor and made my own insert for it by turning down a rifle insert.  It's perfect for my .223.

ETA II:  As noted below.  I use Hornady lock ring for every die I use on the LNL.   The split ring design locks into the bushings and can be unlocked without turning the bushing if you need to adjust the die.

The lee dies work fine in the lnl ap press. I use lee dies with no issues. Get extra bushings, i set my dies in the bushings and leave them. I also use hornady lock rings insted of the lee rings that come with the dies

Order a set of the quick lock rings for EVERY die you own, then order an extra set(if you order in sets of 10 it is like 1/2 the price of sets of 3), order 2 spare primer pickup tubes(one large one small), , shell plates for every caliber your going to use( and then write on them in permanent marker what calibers they fit, it saves a when setting up the press for a new caliber), go to ACE or home depot and get a little plastic bin that will hold ammo from the finished spot the one that comes with it is only for about 75 rounds of 9mm, ( not 100, just 75 WTF; danm press makes 100 a go but will only hold 75, home depot sells sets of bigger ones that fit on for about 10 bucks for 3).  A nice shop light for overhead I have a fluorescent hanging one that is awesome, but you likely have that.  Just my 2 cents.

Also if you got the Hornady LNL see if they are still doing their rebate thing for 500 free bullets, it is a nice addition.

Tgat is good to know about the lee dues.  I actually really like them.  

Do either of you use the lock washer on the shell plate?

n/m

I can't believe Hornady doesn't have a fix for that simple lockwasher issue by now. The RCBS new presses have a lock nut.

And yes, buy a bag of lock washers. They eventually wear out their ability.

n/m

I have spent several years loading sub MOA 308 fir my bolt gun on a lee single stage.  Around Moa fir my AR10 .

What is a realistic expectation for quality ammo?

Yep, I work in an industry where marketing often overpowers science, engineering, or common sense.

n/m

I don't run the LNL anymore but when I did, I was quite pleased with the quality of ammo I produced.

The truth is.. Your process (both the case prep and attention to detail) matters more than a press IMO.  If you are going to go with mixed brass trimmed to various lengths with a sizing die out of round then guess what? The press didn't make those decisions.

You are on the right forum for asking about the LNL. Lots of experts here who can help you as questions come up.

Good luck!

Oh.. your original question.. You don't need them but it is helpful to have a quick change powder die for each caliber. Makes change overs a little faster.
If you did NOT buy a case feeder, DON'T.. at least not until you get the hang of the press. It will add too much to the frustration. I actually enjoyed running on the press without it.

Powder die

All info so far is spot on. The shells you will need is a #1 for your 308, a #6 for your 65, and a #16 for your .223.

I would all so add a power cop for your rifle rounds.

I use a lock washer.

I can only imagine g
How much time, money, and headaches you guys have already saved me.  

I truly appreciare the help and advice.  I am sure it helps many other than myself.  

Please keep it coming

Double tap.

Sorry about that.

Choose your powder wisely.

Some powders measure like water.  Some like well you get the idea.

Let us know your go to powders and we will suggest better alternatives if advisable.

Order extra shell plate retention springs or wait until you crush one and Hornady will send replacements for free.

Check you tube for how to adjust pawls.  Press should come set to operate but this is a skill you will need.

Keep everything clean and lubed.  

Radius and polish the primer slide.  Spilled powder in the primer slide is a no no.  

Most problems can be resolved by proper adjustment specifically the primer slide and case feeder.   Lots of support here.

5 to 600 rounds per hour of pistol ammunition is not really difficult.

Good luck.

Rl15
8208 xbr
Cfe223
4895

There will be others as I get into 260 and bulk loafing of 55 grain 223 and 6.5 Grendel.

After playing around with and without a lock washer, I wound up dropping the lock washer. In the process I may have learned some reasons they don't include one.

As you said, eventually you need to replace that part.

Unless adjusted properly, the lock washer can make the shellplate seem tight, but under press leverage the shellplate can lift a few .001s against the lock washer. When lowering the ram, the case wedged on the PTX expander will "stick" momentarily until the shellplate can't rise any more. Once it releases, the shellplate snaps down, the case is yanked off the PTX expander, and powder pops up out of the case. This is different than powder popping out during indexing, but just as messy.

While the press can work fine with or without the lock washer (once you know what to look for lol), maybe the lock nut is the best approach overall.

Does anyone know the spec for the lock washer and locknut?

Thanks!

I tighten the center bolt until the lock washer bottoms out completely.  There shouldn't be any 'spring' or lift in the shell plate.   I have had no issues with the bolt loosening since I started using the lock washer.

Yup, that's "adjusted properly" lol. A little bit tighter and the shellplate locks up. A little looser and the shellplate will rise very slightly.

n/m

Lock washer is just a 3/8" lockwasher you can find anywhere.  NO locknut.

The difference between loving the LnL and hating comes down to one thing, patience.

If you have the patience to learn this press and how to set up and adjust it properly you will love it. I got my press and was so anxious to crank out ammo I did not get it adjusted correctly. I really came close to scrapping it.

I then watched a bunch of videos. This Video is key. Watch how smooth that press indexes. Follow his tips in the video and practice adjusting and screwing up your press until you are comfortable that you can do it.

76Highboy Reloading has a ton of good videos on the LnL.

If you need anything just PM me.

Youve got a good start.

Buy extra bushings for each set of dies.  I dont think its worth putting the lock rings on every die as suggested, as once they are set, it doesnt matter, you wont be moving them.  Buy the appropriate shell plates.  Lee dies will be fine as long as you are happy with them.  

For tuning, go look up 76Highboy Reloading on YouTube.  He did an entire series on the LnL that explains setting up the press and tuning.  The lock washer on the shell plate helps, but make sure its tight as others have said.  Timing is really key on this press, both on the up and down stroke.

What kind of single stage do you have?  If you can convert it to use the Hornady bushing system, then you can index the press to swap back and forth between the LnL and the single stage without needing to adjust the dies.  

For running rifle I will suggest one thing, as youll need to 2 pass anyway, setup the Lee Universal Decapper in station 1, and the sizing die in 3 or 4 without the decapping pin in the expander.  Will make short work on processing brass.  

Avoid the case feeder unless you really need to push volume of loading.  Some work pretty good, some are really finicky.  Guess which one I had?

Avoid long kernel extruded powders in the rotary drop, youll cut grains and or crush cases.  Hornady makes a funnel die now that goes in the top of the press that will allow you to trickle up a load and pour the powder in the case.  I need to buy one of these.

If you have questions, just ask.  Plenty of guys around here have tuned these pretty well.

Lee dies work just fine, though with some pistol dies I am at the end of the available adjustment.

Buy bushings, seems I never have enough bushings.

You'll need shellplates. I run a powder cop for rifle. The press light kit would be a good investment, check eBay or Amazon no need for name brand.

I use a lockwasher, no issues with it. I also believe in throwing a dime or similar under the priming spud/ram.

Go very easy on the pawl adjustment, like 32nd-16th of a turn at a time, you'll probably need to tweak them a little through the first 500-1000 rounds, everything should settle in and you basically don't need to touch them again.

Things that have choked mine: I put something together wrong initially and when things got tight pushed on and broke the auto prime cam bracket; dumping an entire charge of powder on the press; letting spent primers back all the way up the discharge tube, it will pack them TIGHT then push the tube out of the subplate; seating primers into crimped pockets does not work well. Basically every single problem I have had has been user caused.

Does a shell plate cone with it?  I'd so, which one?

No.  It does not come with a shell plate.  Pretty much nothing that is cartridge specific.   It does come with 5 of the lock bushings, the powder measure, 2 rotors and 2 inserts.



midway usa LNL AP

Good to know.  

I'll get ready now.

I would go to Inline and get their LED lighting kit at a minimum.  The ergo roller handles are nice for long sessions.  Heck, I've got just about every one of their accessories now.  They're all good.

+1...

Roller handle and lighting kit make life much easier...

He also has the larger bins to hold more finished ammo, a bracket that will hold 2 of those bins, a piece for the front of the bin to make it more like a box, die holders, powder throw/die holders, and lots of other amazing stuff, much of which I own. Dan is awesome, and he's a member here, although I don't see him post often. Mention Inline in a thread title, and he appears, like the Bat Signal.

ETA http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/472215_--for-those-with-the-LnL-swagger.html  If you're going to swage on the press, just make sure you buy the right caliber, they aren't interchangeable.

Yeah, no kidding.  Best $50 Ive spent as an upgrade to this press.  Saves my shoulder.  

I just use the Hornady lightstrip kit.  Its cheap and effective.

I agree with these points.  I have a case feeder but a great increase in speed can be found economically and efficiently with the "$28 Bullet Feeder."  These are for the pistol calibers and work great.  I also use two of the powder dies referenced above - very helpful - I use them between pistol (9mm/40/38) and rifle (223/308/30-06).  I find it easy enough to dial in the relatively small differences between the pistol charges and the rifle charges.  

Also, with ball powders like tightgroup and h335 metering is like running water and the consistency is really incredible.

Hornady light strip is a must have.

Watch the video series by 76Highboy on youtube.  Save them/like them and watch again later and as needed.

Have fun!

There are so many parts and pieces in the box for the press. Buy a sealable plastic bin and place every piece of metal that comes in the box in the bin so you don't loose it later down the line.

If you change out primer sizes, SR to LR, there are a bunch of pieces just to change out the priming system. I had to call Hornady to just get a spring replaced which put me out of the reloading game for a solid week.

Useless info any organized person doesn't need to know. Thought I would share my headache.

I sold my LNL AP for a Dillon machine and havent had any of the problems that the Hornady LNL has.

^^^ I am sorry that you were not able to get your LNL running perfectly like many of us. <removed> leave these kind of comments out of your posts unless you want a warning.
You might want to read the part of the Conduct Code that pertains to Technical Forums and insults. dryflash3
But at least you have the satisfaction knowing that you can send your press in for a complete rebuild. "You do know that there is a reason for that. Don't you?
You did notice that the title of the post is "Hornady LNL AP, help please" Not is "I have a Hornady What should I get?"

Midway is a great place to buy some small parts. I know you can get them free from Hornady. But I always like a spare of the small pieces that might give you trouble. I had basically the same issue as you.. ONCE... Never again I vowed. Being shut down really sux.

Actually, after awhile hornady will tell you to pound sand trying to get small parts from them. The priming carriage on mine fell apart twice and the third time they told me they wouldn't be sending me any more parts.

oops

oops.

Only time I experienced an issue with Hornady was when I asked for more of a particular item. They told me I could pay for more. Which was great IMO. RCBS has no way for you to pay. They don't take CC over the phone. So, you get what they give you... no more... no less. I really was hoping to order a couple extra of certain items for my RCBS press. But there is no place to buy them. At least Midway and others sell Hornady parts.

I guess I will be finding out this first hand.  I was given a Hornady LNL AP with the case feeder but after going though it I found 35 missing pieces missing between the case feeder, the auto powder drop and the press itself.  Some of them I can find on websites others, not so much.  Fingers crossed they are in a festive mood when I call.