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FL, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2016 9:09:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ReefRaider]
So as to not take another thread here off topic. Thought I'd start a new one.
Looking at maybe doing some up grades to my S1050s. Was wanting some input as to what some of you might have tried and liked . Also what didn't work out for you. About 3 years ago some one gave me a bearing for the shell plate . I never put it on though. Now I'm reading that the bearings can make the shell plate retainer hit the tool head when it's all the way at the bottom of the down stroke. Even if you haven't done any up grades to your 1050. I also would like to know how you have your tool head set up to process 5.56 brass. I've always use all Dillon dies with the exception of the last station. Which has a redding neck sizing die with expander. It helps to roll any burr left by the trimmer and gives very consistent neck tension. ETA Keep in mind I run my 1050s on a PW auto drive. The up date's done as of now. Level 10 delrin guide rods and also their delrin primer slide sleeve cover. Fast and Friendly Brass , super duty small swager rod. If you do a lot of large swaging they have a large rod too. Home made case feeder plunger , to slow the .223 case feeding in to the shell plate. NOTEif your doing a caliber conversation to .233 on the 1050. Fast and Friendly Brass sells a up graded #3 shell that from what I'm told is well worth the money over the Dillon one. They also sell other shell plates for other caliber conversation s. Check their web site. They are also a sponsor of ARFCOM ! |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 4:35:55 PM EDT
[#1]
The PW drive is just a motor, with a manual clutch that you have to adjust correctly.
Hence the write up I did to add in the needed features so if you run into problems, it will not kill the machine. Bluntly, if you bought one when they first came out, it and the needed devices was under $1K in the end. What the Mark 7 did, was added in the needed futures, along with a VLD controller that has amperage sensing as well. Simply, this made there system turn key instead, but at the tune of around $3k in the end with all the sensors isntead. Lets face it, for just a couple of calibers on a 1050, your getting into the $3k range, and when you add another $3k on top of that, then you into the inline reloaders that is a better option than a 1050 instead. I bring this up, since if anyone has ever seen a well used 1050 that a ammo shop is selling to pick up a new one, the reason is its just cheaper to buy a whole new machine, then to try to rebuild a worn out 1050 instead. Granted that the 1050 does have a lot of ball bearings, but the down side to the machine is no replaceable sleeve between the base and the ram for a machine. Then you get into the issue that the primer tube will only hold so many primers, and does not allow for reloading the tube when the machine is running as well. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2017 4:36:15 PM EDT
[#2]
Great thread!
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/19/2017 1:31:33 AM EDT
[#3]
Wonder how many primers the new Mark 7 reloading press will handle....
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dano523:
The PW drive is just a motor, with a manual clutch that you have to adjust correctly. Hence the write up I did to add in the needed features so if you run into problems, it will not kill the machine. Bluntly, if you bought one when they first came out, it and the needed devices was under $1K in the end. What the Mark 7 did, was added in the needed futures, along with a VLD controller that has amperage sensing as well. Simply, this made there system turn key instead, but at the tune of around $3k in the end with all the sensors isntead. Lets face it, for just a couple of calibers on a 1050, your getting into the $3k range, and when you add another $3k on top of that, then you into the inline reloaders that is a better option than a 1050 instead. I bring this up, since if anyone has ever seen a well used 1050 that a ammo shop is selling to pick up a new one, the reason is its just cheaper to buy a whole new machine, then to try to rebuild a worn out 1050 instead. Granted that the 1050 does have a lot of ball bearings, but the down side to the machine is no replaceable sleeve between the base and the ram for a machine. Then you get into the issue that the primer tube will only hold so many primers, and does not allow for reloading the tube when the machine is running as well. |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 2:03:26 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blake-b:
I've got two S1050s. I'm lazy and don't want to move things around too much. One is dedicated to 223/556 and the other 308. Both of them are set up the same way. I have a total of 4 tool heads. One for each caliber to process brass and one for each caliber to load. It doesn't take too long to switch out a toolhead. I don't have to mess with the different systems that rely on primer size, caliber specific feeding parts, etc. They are set up the same way. I use a mix of Dillon, Lee, and Lyman dies. Processing head: Station 1 is a Lee universal decapper. Station 2 swages Station 3: Empty (no primers loaded) Station 4: Empty (where powder measure would be) Station 5 is where an electric trimmer is (RT1200 for 223; Bosch 1617EVS router with an adapter kit for 308. I went with the router just to try it. Both the router setup and a Dillon trimmer came out similar price wise so I thought I'd try it) Station 6 empty Station 7 is a Lyman M die to open the necks up just a little How much are you opening up the neck with the M die? I'm using a Mr. Bullet Feeder, and thought I read to open the neck to .224, but now am being told that is to large to tension properly for an autoloader, but any smaller and bullets topple (MBF) when advancing the shellplate... |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 2:50:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
How much are you opening up the neck with the M die? I'm using a Mr. Bullet Feeder, and thought I read to open the neck to .224, but now am being told that is to large to tension properly for an autoloader, but any smaller and bullets topple (MBF) when advancing the shellplate... I just set Mine until the bullet just sits on the case. I dunno if there is a way to measure it, just an eyeball thing. |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 2:55:27 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Wonder how many primers the new Mark 7 reloading press will handle.... Looks to Me like it is a drum style, just dump them in on the fly. 
Awful lot of Dillon S1050 looking things going on there. 
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Posted: 2/19/2017 4:21:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dano523]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
How much are you opening up the neck with the M die? I'm using a Mr. Bullet Feeder, and thought I read to open the neck to .224, but now am being told that is to large to tension properly for an autoloader, but any smaller and bullets topple (MBF) when advancing the shellplate... Mr bullet powder through expander is just like a M die. So you only want to step the neck enough that when the bullet is dropped out of the bullet feeder die, it sticks in the case. If you are over stepping the neck to the larger ID too deep, then it working the case too much and maybe even more that your bullet crimper can close the case back up. So in 224, you only want to second step on the expander to go into the neck about 1/16". This allows the bullet to drop out the bullet feeder, and gives then slightly neck step ring for the bullet to stick in the case from the drop on the bullet feeder. IF you are using the Mr bullet powder through expander (or M expander) for pistol (or 300 blk with cast bullets), then you can use the expander deeper, to end up with more case mouth flair instead. Think this, 
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Posted: 2/20/2017 12:41:12 AM EDT
[#8]
my MBF 223 conversion didn't include a powder/expander - I though they were only for pistol calibers...
I did notice the Dillon Swage backup rod opens the case back up similar to what an M die does for 223, so am going to experiment a bit with the two. I have an PW Autodrive on the way though so holding off on any 223 work for a few days. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/20/2017 9:34:54 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
my MBF 223 conversion didn't include a powder/expander - I though they were only for pistol calibers... I did notice the Dillon Swage backup rod opens the case back up similar to what an M die does for 223, so am going to experiment a bit with the two. I have an PW Autodrive on the way though so holding off on any 223 work for a few days. Sorry if I missed it but what kind of bullet will you be loading? The swage rod may be enough for BT bullets but not FB bullets like Hornady 55gr SP. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 12:06:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Sorry if I missed it but what kind of bullet will you be loading? The swage rod may be enough for BT bullets but not FB bullets like Hornady 55gr SP. Hornady .224 55gr FMJ-BT w/cannelure |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/20/2017 2:11:12 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
Hornady .224 55gr FMJ-BT w/cannelure Probably be ok. If they topple, get a m die. I run mostly SP so its required. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 6:22:30 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Probably be ok. If they topple, get a m die. I run mostly SP so its required. Yeah I load my SP loads on a Coax ;). This is for range blaster ammo, in bulk - have the M die so will just open up till the won't topple - which is really where I started, but some were saying that's too little neck tension so figured I would double check... Thanks all :). |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2017 4:18:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: NoScoE30]
[#13]
Hey,
Has anybody used any 1050 parts from fast and friendly brass? They spend a good chunk of the text on their website talking trash about Dillon's parts and the material they are made of. I can tell you guys for a fact he is flat out lying about the 1050 "link arm" and "crank arm" being made out of a low grade aluminum casting. The factory stock link arm is made out of 6061 t-6 barstock and CNC machined. He has made new parts out of the exact same material as the Dillon spec, to guessed tolerances, and without the hard anodizing. He also is charging more for the same part from Dillon. There were also prototypes made out of 7075 but they were too brittle. Edit:extra clarification |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2017 5:22:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NoScoE30:
Hey, Has anybody used any 1050 parts from fast and friendly brass? They spend a good chunk of the text on their website talking trash about Dillon's parts and the material they are made of. I can tell you guys for a fact he is flat out lying about the 1050 "link arm" and "crank arm" being made out of a low grade aluminum casting. The link arm is made out of 6061 t-6 barstock and CNC machined. He has made new parts out of the exact same material as the Dillon spec, to guessed tolerances, and without the hard anodizing. He also is charging more for the same part from Dillon. There were also prototypes made out of 7075 but they were too brittle. I bought a few parts including swage rods. No idea if its snake oil or not but I like em. They are a site member I think so they sell stuff in EE. Havent seen anyone complain about the stuff here. Nothing wrong with competition... |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2017 6:03:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Nothing wrong with competition... Its not really competition if they are lying about their testing, making a "new" part out of identical material and selling it for more. To top it off they left off anodize coating. |
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Posted: 2/22/2017 6:18:00 PM EDT
[#16]
I use the de-capping pins, swage rods and shell plates, they seem to be nice stuff.
I hear You on the Trash talk, I could do without that part. Just don't start anything in this thread. Some of Us got a lot of time and effort in it. I'd rather not see it get locked. |
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Posted: 2/22/2017 6:54:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ReefRaider]
[#17]
I've gone though 2 Dillon small swagers. They are soft. Now have the F&FB swager installed in one of the 1050's. It seems to be holding up. In fact it was removed yesterday while cleaning and lubing the press for another run. One thing about it, wish it had a hex on it for adjusting instead of just two flats. It won't be long before another one gets ordered.
Over all I think he makes some good products for the 1050. Not that I have a need for them all, at least not yet. Dillon really should pay attention to what he's saying. They could learn a thing or two. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2017 7:27:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ReefRaider:
I've gone though 2 Dillon small swagers. They are soft. Now have the F&FB swager installed in one of the 1050's. It seems to be holding up. In fact it was removed yesterday while cleaning and lubing the press for another run. One thing about it, wish it had a hex on it for adjusting instead of just two flats. It won't be long before another one gets ordered. Over all I think he makes some good products for the 1050. Not that I have a need for them all, at least not yet. Dillon really should pay attention to what he's saying. They could learn a thing or two. +1 on hex. Its a PITA to remove/adjust/tighten with Mark 7 installed. |
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Posted: 2/23/2017 3:52:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NoScoE30:
Hey, Has anybody used any 1050 parts from fast and friendly brass? They spend a good chunk of the text on their website talking trash about Dillon's parts and the material they are made of. I can tell you guys for a fact he is flat out lying about the 1050 "link arm" and "crank arm" being made out of a low grade aluminum casting. The factory stock link arm is made out of 6061 t-6 barstock and CNC machined. He has made new parts out of the exact same material as the Dillon spec, to guessed tolerances, and without the hard anodizing. He also is charging more for the same part from Dillon. There were also prototypes made out of 7075 but they were too brittle. Edit:extra clarification We can back up our claims. Can you back up yours? 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2017 3:55:00 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FastAndFriendlyBrass:
We can back up our claims. Can you back up yours? http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/images/Destructive_Test.JPG Nice! Now where are we on making the the swaging rod a hex adjustment? |
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Posted: 2/23/2017 3:55:46 PM EDT
[#21]
As for the swage rod... We'll get those changed to hex from a single flat on the next order. We did the single flat as we thought it would be easier to tell if it had moved after being set due to a poorly tightened jam nut.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2017 5:37:56 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FastAndFriendlyBrass:
As for the swage rod... We'll get those changed to hex from a single flat on the next order. We did the single flat as we thought it would be easier to tell if it had moved after being set due to a poorly tightened jam nut. Thanks... I was considering buying the Mark 7 swag sensor but the fact I just bought your rods stopped me. Their sensor requires a special rod I think. Sigh... |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2017 8:22:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: NoScoE30]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FastAndFriendlyBrass:
We can back up our claims. Can you back up yours? http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/images/Destructive_Test.JPG Let me start off by saying I am NOT a Dillon employee. Calling you a liar was a little harsh. I apologize for that. Misinformed is a better word. I don't know what happened at the lab you paid, but they messed up. You might want to consider getting your money back. I make the part in question for Dillon. (and quite a few others) The Dillon Super 1050 link arm starts as a 12' bar of 1.5" x 6" rectangle 6061-T6511 barstock. It is CNC machined on a Makino A51NX horizontal. It is finished with a hard black anodize. Here are the material certs for the latest batch of material we ordered for this job. We purchased approx 1500 pounds. Is this is the proof you are looking for? 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2017 10:41:27 PM EDT
[#24]
Thank god my original link arm still works. I wouldnt want to have to:
a. decide between the two b. pay that much for one... dang.. What are these items rated to? I have at least 30k rounds loaded or brass processed in almost 3 yrs now.. |
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Posted: 2/23/2017 11:21:11 PM EDT
[#25]
I am watching this thread closely.
Lets have a polite discussion with no more name calling. dryflash3 |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 12:34:49 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NoScoE30:
Let me start off by saying I am NOT a Dillon employee. Calling you a liar was a little harsh. I apologize for that. Misinformed is a better word. I don't know what happened at the lab you paid, but they messed up. You might want to consider getting your money back. I make the part in question for Dillon. (and quite a few others) The Dillon Super 1050 link arm starts as a 12' bar of 1.5" x 6" rectangle 6061-T6511 barstock. It is CNC machined on a Makino A51NX horizontal. It is finished with a hard black anodize. Here are the material certs for the latest batch of material we ordered for this job. We purchased approx 1500 pounds. Is this is the proof you are looking for? http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Mr_Deagle993/20170223165656588-page-002_zpsoricx9k1.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Mr_Deagle993/20170223165656588-page-004_zpsmjcdil5c.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Mr_Deagle993/20170223165656588-page-003_zpswhhdmuhu.jpg So I post up an actual specific destructive analysis, and your rebuttal is a generic, unreadable material certification that comes with every shipment of metal? You calling me a liar is pretty much straight up libel. Tread lightly. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 1:50:44 PM EDT
[#27]
NoScoE30 and FF&B,
I see that You guy's are having an issue here. Would you please take it to PM's and leave this thread alone? I know You guy's don't care if it gets locked, but a lot of Us do. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2017 2:31:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FastAndFriendlyBrass:
So I post up an actual specific destructive analysis, and your rebuttal is a generic, unreadable material certification that comes with every shipment of metal? You calling me a liar is pretty much straight up libel. Tread lightly. Here is a picture of a scrap 1050 link arm along with a few bar ends. Short of me personally inviting you to our facility to watch the 1.5"x6" 6061-T6511 bar get cut, loaded in the Makino a51NX horizontal and sent out for anodize, and delivered to Dillon, what else would you like to see? The material cert is converted from a pdf to a jpg for forum use (it is degraded). If you have a good email I can send you the pdf version of the cert. If you pay for shipping, I can send some bar ends to you. So no, it is not libel. You are misinformed and should get your money back from the lab. It is not a casting like you claim. It is made out of the same material as your supposed "upgrade". The Dillon part is hardcoat anodized unlike your "upgrade". 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2017 2:36:27 PM EDT
[#29]
Thanks Dave.
Is anyone running 357 sig on the 1050? Only way I could get neck tension right is to skip the 9mm swaging rod in swaging station. I would still like the brass held while swaging (mixed "once fired" brass). Thinking about using 223 rod. Anything better out there? I am still able to expand slightly with MBF powder insert and so far, tension seems good. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:10:54 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FastAndFriendlyBrass:
So I post up an actual specific destructive analysis, and your rebuttal is a generic, unreadable material certification that comes with every shipment of metal? You calling me a liar is pretty much straight up libel. Tread lightly. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:19:20 PM EDT
[#31]
I was going to tell them that, but knew you wouldn't be long in getting here.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:29:07 PM EDT
[#32]
If it's not a discussion of the Dillon take it somewhere else or I'll remove you.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:48:02 PM EDT
[#33]
Please continue with this thread, the poster with the issue won't be back.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2017 5:07:12 PM EDT
[#34]
As I was saying....
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Is anyone running 357 sig on the 1050? Only way I could get neck tension right is to skip the 9mm swaging rod in swaging station. I would still like the brass held while swaging (mixed "once fired" brass). Thinking about using 223 rod. Anything better out there? I am still able to expand slightly with MBF powder insert and so far, tension seems good. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/24/2017 5:10:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Take this somewhere else, you have both had your say. dryflash3 Where should they take this discussion? I am interested in outcome. I can understand not cluttering up this thread but can either one of them start a new thread? I personally have 4 1050s. I find that as soon as I encounter unknown resistance I stop and don't force anything. I rarely break parts. I do find that the cleaner and better lived I creep them they run smoother. Fortunalty Dillon is local so if I do parts are only a quick drive away. Don't want to get this thread locked but I am interested in where these two parties can politely discuss this |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 6:05:29 PM EDT
[#36]
To a non technical forum.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 7:55:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ChevelleDave]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
As I was saying.... Turn off a few thousandths with a drill and sandpaper? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2017 8:17:04 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Turn off a few thousandths with a drill and sandpaper? Might have to do that. Would need another for 9mm though.. dang. |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 3:20:21 AM EDT
[#39]
but You'll always need a .357 Sig swage rod.
It's only money.................. 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2017 9:45:40 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ChevelleDave:
but You'll always need a .357 Sig swage rod.
It's only money.................. True... speaking of money... I would love something like this: http://www.markvii-loading.com/Mark-7-Offloading-System_p_35.html but cant see paying 100 for it. Anyone have any ideas how to build something like that? |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 10:42:54 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
True... speaking of money... I would love something like this: http://www.markvii-loading.com/Mark-7-Offloading-System_p_35.html but cant see paying 100 for it. Anyone have any ideas how to build something like that? That is nice. Looks like a automotive intake hose hooked up an air duct. I like that idea. car air duct |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2017 10:52:05 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prskiller:
That is nice. Looks like a automotive intake hose hooked up an air duct. I like that idea. car air duct great idea!!! |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 12:39:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ChevelleDave]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
great idea!!! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By prskiller:
That is nice. Looks like a automotive intake hose hooked up an air duct. I like that idea. car air duct great idea!!! That's all fine and dandy, but the Mark Seven product uses a much higher quality plastic as their raw material.
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Posted: 2/25/2017 12:57:39 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ChevelleDave:
That's all fine and dandy, but the Mark Seven product uses a much higher quality plastic as their raw material. You may be right as it looks to be a intake duct off a Ferrari
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Posted: 2/25/2017 1:04:58 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prskiller:
You may be right as it looks to be a intake duct off a Ferrari Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prskiller:
Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
That's all fine and dandy, but the Mark Seven product uses a much higher quality plastic as their raw material. You may be right as it looks to be a intake duct off a Ferrari
If you don't have an extra Ferrari duct laying around, how about an oil bottle with the bottom cut off? Or maybe a similar style bottle with a larger mouth? |
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Posted: 2/26/2017 12:35:14 AM EDT
[#46]
Some of you might remember the thread Flamethrower did years ago. He had a similar set up and was running some .40 I believe. Long story short. He had one detonate as it hit the bottom. The case was all over the place and the projectile was in the ceiling.
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Posted: 2/26/2017 2:57:26 AM EDT
[#47]
For My volume of loading I like to load a tube of primers, and box up a 100 at a time and QC them.
I'll have to post up my case arranging set up. Still ironing out the bugs, but in short, I use the case feeder to drop the cases so they are all oriented the same way. I use a piece of tube to divert them onto a plywood shelf,then I can scoop them up a handful at a time. I cannot sit there and pick the cases one at a time and orient them base up. This way It is a lot easier for me to inspect, sort and load them into the annealor. I need to get some other stuff done and out of the way first, but I will need to get back on it as I'll have a far amount of third fired blasting ammo that will need a trip through the annealor soon |
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Posted: 2/26/2017 2:59:10 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ReefRaider:
Some of you might remember the thread Flamethrower did years ago. He had a similar set up and was running some .40 I believe. Long story short. He had one detonate as it hit the bottom. The case was all over the place and the projectile was in the ceiling. Sounds like a good time! I think I'll stick with the blue bin.
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Posted: 2/26/2017 3:07:47 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ReefRaider:
Some of you might remember the thread Flamethrower did years ago. He had a similar set up and was running some .40 I believe. Long story short. He had one detonate as it hit the bottom. The case was all over the place and the projectile was in the ceiling. Well that's not good. Guess I'll stick to the blue bin. |
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Posted: 2/26/2017 10:35:13 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prskiller:
Well that's not good. Guess I'll stick to the blue bin. I actually think it was enough to make him give up commercial reloading. But there may have been extenuating circumstances also. |
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