So I've got a Dillon 550 and an RCBS starters kit and I'm just starting out reloading

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - So I've got a Dillon 550 and an RCBS starters kit and I'm just starting out reloading

Posted: 6/11/2016 9:39:31 PM EDT

Specifically, this RCBS "special" kit. I bought it and then a very generous gentleman gifted me a fairly pimped out Dillon 550. I have never reloaded before.

I've been watching videos and have the Dillon about 95% assembled. I want to reload for 9mm, .223, .300blk, 22-250 (later down the road), and .308 (later down the road, not a priority). I have dies for all but .308 and 22-250.

I have enough toolheads to dedicate one per for 9mm, .223, and .300blk. I have powder, brass, bullets, and primers for those as well. I do not have a good tumbler (just a crappy small rock tumbler) but I do have a nice, heated ultrasonic cleaner. I also have a digital caliper. I have WFT trimmers for .223 and .300blk. All I need now (as far as I know) is some plastic boxes for my soon to be loaded ammo...I think.

I have not opened my RCBS kit yet. How should I integrate it with the Dillon 550? I assume my first step is to deprime and then throw the brass in the ultrasonic, correct? Should I just start out with 9mm or just learn the hard way on a rifle cartridge and do .300blk? I am leaning towards .300blk simply because I can shoot suppressed on my property and I am just now ordering a pistol suppressor.

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:14:38 PM EDT

[#1]

You say tool heads you have. Those are atleast non caliber specific so your of to a good start.

But you didn't mention shellplates for the dillon. If none , then you can load on the rcbs as single stage provided you have shell holders for the case you want to start with.

A very handy tool is a hornady headspace measurement tool, fits on your calipers, easy to use, great for setting up sizing dies.

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:28:16 PM EDT

[#2]

Use the RCBS press to deprime so you can clean the cases.

I also do all my bottleneck case (rifle) resizing on my Rockchucker.

Then case prep, trimming, deburring, crimp removal if needed.

Then load on the 550.

With straight case brass (pistol), after cleaning they can be sized and loaded all on the 550.

So big difference between straight cases and bottleneck cases.

You will need a trimming tool for bottleneck cases and a debur tool.

You also need a scale to weigh powder charges so you can set the powder measure on the 550.

If you got the 550 manual, follow it step by step. Download from Dillon if you don't have one.

Start with a pistol round to begin reloading, easier as there is no case prep other than cleaning.

Won't be long and you will be doing this. Notice Rockchucker at right side of pic.

Welcome to our hobby and the forum. Do some reading at the top of the page.

There is a great "how to load 223" series in Tutorials.

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:29:33 PM EDT

[#3]

I have a 650, but use my Lee Turret a bunch too. For me it's easier to resize/deprime my bottleneck cartridges (.223, .300) first, then inspect & trim (if necessary), then do everything else in the progressive.

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:37:42 PM EDT

[#4]

Did you get any reloading manuals?

How many powder drops did you get with the dillon? If the Dillon doesn't have it, get a roller handle and strong mount.

Make sure you use case lube with the rifle brass.

My opinion, get a manual set of calipers to cross check/ back up the battery that always dies when you want to use it. Harbor freight ones are good enough.

Case gauges is a wise investment

As mentioned, you will need to verify you have all the Dillon shellplates , buttons, powder funnel, along with the dies.

There is tons more to recommend, don't want to overload

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:47:51 PM EDT

[#5]

Congrats on tools.. You started loading at a nice time. Powder and primers and other components are in stock finally. But winter is coming.... figure out some basic loads out quick.. for 300BO, buy a jug of 1680 for subs or maybe H110 or lil gun for supers. Get a bunch of primers. It has taken since the craziness of 2013 for things to calm down and shelves to fill. Dont get stuck without if November gets
cold.

Good luck and be safe! As other poster said, buy some manuals. My fav's are lyman 49th and Hornady 9th.

Welcome!

Posted: 6/11/2016 10:52:05 PM EDT

[#6]

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Congrats on tools.. You started loading at a nice time. Powder and primers and other components are in stock finally. But winter is coming.... figure out some basic loads out quick.. for 300BO, buy a jug of 1680 for subs or maybe H110 or lil gun for supers. Get a bunch of primers. It has taken since the craziness of 2013 for things to calm down and shelves to fill. Don't get stuck without if November gets

cold.

Good luck and be safe! As other poster said, buy some manuals. My fav's are lyman 49th and Hornady 9th.

Welcome!

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Well worded for a technical forum (no politics). Good advice in any case.

Posted: 6/11/2016 11:22:50 PM EDT

[#7]

Also another tip/ opinion

In order to get max value of savings from reloading, buy in bulk when the components you like are on sale/discount. If you have to pay hazmat fees, buy the max amount your hazmat fee will allow. All this stuff will store for a long time and you spread out your hazmat fee cost.

If you only buy 100 bullets at a time with a pound of powder your per round cost will be a lot higher than the guy who bought 3000 bullets at a 10% discount and bought an 8 pound jug of powder that was $2 less per pound than the one pounder you bought.

Posted: 6/12/2016 2:59:17 PM EDT

[#8]

I'm trying to address all of the questions and recommendations:

I have the Speer "Reloading manual #14, it came with the RCBS kit

I have the Dillon shell plates that I need

A beam scale came with the RCBS kit

I have this multi case gauge and a Dillon 9mm one

Here's some pics of what I have. The cylindrical container has Dillon primer tubes in it. I have 1680, Titegroup, Tac, and IMR4198 powders. I have small rifle and small pistol primers. I have deprimed and cleaned .223 brass, .223 bullets, 9mm bullets, .308 bullets (for .300blk), and oodles of dirty range brass for .308, 9mm, and .223.

Posted: 6/12/2016 4:00:12 PM EDT

[#9]

You look to be missing the fail safe powder measure rod. You look to have older model powder measures, too the one with the spring return.

Posted: 6/12/2016 4:03:57 PM EDT

[#10]

Get yourself a copy of the new Lyman 50th Reloading manual.
It is the best resource for loading handguns!
Remember that plate pistol bullets use hard cast lead data, only good source is the Lyman. The lead bullets in Speer are swaged bullets, even softer than cast bullets.
HiTek Coated pistol bullets are hard cast lead bullets, so use that data!

Posted: 6/12/2016 4:08:13 PM EDT

[#11]

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You look to be missing the fail safe powder measure rod. You look to have older model powder measures, too the one with the spring return.

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Could you expound on your statements for me so that I may know what to look for and/or order?

Posted: 6/12/2016 10:50:11 PM EDT

[#12]

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Could you expound on your statements for me so that I may know what to look for and/or order?

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Quoted:

You look to be missing the fail safe powder measure rod. You look to have older model powder measures, too the one with the spring return.

Could you expound on your statements for me so that I may know what to look for and/or order?

Go to https://www.dillonprecision.com/ and learn more about your 550.

If you call Dillon, they will replace the missing parts.

You want the fail safe linkage on your PM.

Posted: 6/13/2016 4:04:46 PM EDT

[#13]

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Go to https://www.dillonprecision.com/ and learn more about your 550.

If you call Dillon, they will replace the missing parts.

You want the fail safe linkage on your PM.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
You look to be missing the fail safe powder measure rod. You look to have older model powder measures, too the one with the spring return.

Could you expound on your statements for me so that I may know what to look for and/or order?

Go to https://www.dillonprecision.com/ and learn more about your 550.

If you call Dillon, they will replace the missing parts.

You want the fail safe linkage on your PM.

I found the fail safe linkage. Am I supposed to replace the powder measures?

Posted: 6/13/2016 4:14:49 PM EDT

[#14]

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I found the fail safe linkage. Am I supposed to replace the powder measures?

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Quoted:

Quoted:

You look to be missing the fail safe powder measure rod. You look to have older model powder measures, too the one with the spring return.

Could you expound on your statements for me so that I may know what to look for and/or order?

Go to https://www.dillonprecision.com/ and learn more about your 550.

If you call Dillon, they will replace the missing parts.

You want the fail safe linkage on your PM.

I found the fail safe linkage. Am I supposed to replace the powder measures?

No.

The fail safe linkage connects the powder measure to the press and is what activates the PM when the press cycles.

Posted: 6/13/2016 10:03:33 PM EDT

[#15]

I have a Lee 4 hole turret and an RCBS Junior I bought in 1975. The 4 hole is great for depriming and sizing .223 and can seat bullets in small cases with it. There is just not a lot of hand room in the Lee. I load powder from an RCBS drop powder measure and seat bullets on the RCBS Junior. I use a 40 year old RCBS scale as well. I also have an RCBS Partner but don't use it much. I have loaded 600 rounds in the last 4 days and processed 500 more cases. Bring on the ISIL I'm ready for them. I have always wanted a Dillon but I'm on a roll without it right now. I'm not sure I have enough life left to make it pay.

Posted: 6/14/2016 8:16:14 AM EDT

[#16]

Speaking of powder measures, pro tip: buy a powder measure bar for each caliber you're reloading, and a fine-tip Sharpie. Use the sharpie to write the load ("5.8gr Unique") on the end or side of the bar. Keep that bar with the toolhead and caliber change kit. When you change calibers, you change the powder bar in the PM as well. This way, you set it up once, then all you're doing is verifying the charge, instead of going from, say, a 27gr load to a 5.8gr load every time you change.

Also, take a piece of masking tape, write the powder and charge on it, and tape it to the powder measure. When you walk away from your press for a couple of days, it's always good to know what's in the hopper.

Posted: 6/17/2016 5:46:34 PM EDT

[#17]

All assembled. I'm starting out with 9mm, figured out setting up depriming/resizing and belling the case mouth, now I need to get powder and crimping sorted.

Posted: 6/17/2016 5:59:09 PM EDT

[#18]

Glad to see the fail safe linkage is installed.

I suggest you start with 1 case and get all of the adjustments correct.

Then completely load it before starting another case in the press.

Ensure round feeds, chambers and ejects normally before continuing on.

When all is working well, then load progressive.

Posted: 6/17/2016 7:05:07 PM EDT

[#19]

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Glad to see the fail safe linkage is installed.

I suggest you start with 1 case and get all of the adjustments correct.

Then completely load it before starting another case in the press.

Ensure round feeds, chambers and ejects normally before continuing on.

When all is working well, then load progressive.

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That's exactly the plan. Got small pistol primers, plenty of brass, some plated 115gr bullets, and plenty of Titegroup.

Posted: 6/17/2016 7:52:04 PM EDT

[#20]

Looks like your off to a great start

I like this pic, 550b, with strong mount, bullet tray, etc., reloading book open, . . . . . . . single stage RCBS tossed to the back of the bench, collecting dust

( just kidding.....you'll find the RCBS handy at times, but you'll LOVE the 550b )

Posted: 6/19/2016 12:56:59 PM EDT

[#21]

OK, got powder measurement dialed in and tested for over 10 throws (4.2gr of Titegroup behind a Berrys 115gr plated).

I believe that I have done something wrong with priming. I am using CCI #500 small pistol primers. I have not been able to successfully prime using the below pictured setup. I am also showing what other primer bars I have. I see that the one I do not have installed has a spring under the cup that the primer sits in. The primer does not go into the brass on the downswing of the handle.

Posted: 6/19/2016 1:21:02 PM EDT

[#22]

there should be a piece of flat sheet metal that goes under the primer slide.

is it missing ?

14015 in this diagram

Posted: 6/19/2016 1:21:11 PM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:
OK, got powder measurement dialed in and tested for over 10 throws (4.2gr of Titegroup behind a Berrys 115gr plated).

I believe that I have done something wrong with priming. I am using CCI #500 small pistol primers. I have not been able to successfully prime using the below pictured setup. I am also showing what other primer bars I have. I see that the one I do not have installed has a spring under the cup that the primer sits in. The primer does not go into the brass on the downswing of the handle.

<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/user/baxshep/media/Guns/4D569A2D-1A68-49AC-81C7-1675FCDAF7CD_zps7qgcrigq.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/baxshep/Guns/4D569A2D-1A68-49AC-81C7-1675FCDAF7CD_zps7qgcrigq.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/user/baxshep/media/Guns/D4B78F83-7C95-480B-87A1-7B8AF7F23551_zpswv4wpjgd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/baxshep/Guns/D4B78F83-7C95-480B-87A1-7B8AF7F23551_zpswv4wpjgd.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/user/baxshep/media/Guns/BD1E7159-6C4C-4E6B-AB9E-B1B86F282BDE_zpssourlrcy.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/baxshep/Guns/BD1E7159-6C4C-4E6B-AB9E-B1B86F282BDE_zpssourlrcy.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/user/baxshep/media/Guns/A47EF086-93B5-412A-B4FB-34337CD0DC5F_zpsxmjcwjmk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/baxshep/Guns/A47EF086-93B5-412A-B4FB-34337CD0DC5F_zpsxmjcwjmk.jpg</a>

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Two questions

Is the gold primer holder going into the black tube when the ram is all the way up?

When you return the handle to the "home" position, are you pressing another inch towards your loaded bullet tray? When you do that the primer goes into the brass:

. Try it with no primers and brass in the press and you will see the whole shell plate lower and a black plunger appear. That is what is putting the primer into the brass.

Posted: 6/19/2016 2:05:47 PM EDT

[#24]

Like Derek said I think you are missing the piece P/N14015.

Also, the primer bar looks visibly crooked in the base which tells me the primer seater is likely not lining up with the baseplate shell plate assembly.

Posted: 6/19/2016 2:10:47 PM EDT

[#25]

You have that piece somewhere its clearly in one of your earlier bench pictures half way back up the page. Find that piece and install it under the primer base and make sure that you push the ram all the way up handle forward with the primer seater going up into the shell plate while gently torqueing the screws at the same time. This will set the alignment of the primer bar.

Hope this helps.

Posted: 6/19/2016 2:40:46 PM EDT

[#26]

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When you return the handle to the "home" position, are you pressing another inch towards your loaded bullet tray? When you do that the primer goes into the brass:

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The primer does not go into the brass on the downswing of the handle.

When you return the handle to the "home" position, are you pressing another inch towards your loaded bullet tray? When you do that the primer goes into the brass:

I think there is your problem.

After you come up with the handle, you need to push away from you to seat the primer.

Posted: 6/19/2016 2:53:05 PM EDT

[#27]

You guys rock! That one part was the answer and I aligned everything as advised. I just loaded my first round and checked it in the case gauge, seems good to go but still nervously checking everything before I shoot it.

Posted: 6/19/2016 2:55:59 PM EDT

[#28]

Call DILLON Monday

they will probably offer a full refurbish

Years ago, me and a friend bought used Dillons at a yard sale.

they were a bit beat up

Dillon refurb'ed them both to "like new" condition

It took about 10 days and didn't cost anything.

Posted: 6/19/2016 4:19:25 PM EDT

[#29]

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Call DILLON Monday

they will probably offer a full refurbish

Years ago, me and a friend bought used Dillons at a yard sale.

they were a bit beat up

Dillon refurb'ed them both to "like new" condition

It took about 10 days and didn't cost anything.

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What are you saying that I should ask them for?

Just realized that I don't have media for tumbling after reloading nor do I have a decent tumbler

That will have to wait until next VA blood money payday.

Posted: 6/19/2016 5:28:23 PM EDT

[#30]

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What are you saying that I should ask them for?

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I called with a big list of missing & broken parts

He said - "what are you trying to do ?"

I said I got a used at a yard sale, he recommended sending it in for a refurb

Maybe call them, tell them you got a used 550 with some missing parts

ask them

they have great customer service.

Posted: 6/19/2016 6:01:13 PM EDT

[#31]

I might give them a call but I think I'm OK.

What cheap media should I try for a little rock tumbler?

Posted: 6/19/2016 11:40:58 PM EDT

[#32]

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I might give them a call but I think I'm OK.

What cheap media should I try for a little rock tumbler?

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Wet or dry tumbler?

Posted: 6/20/2016 1:09:45 PM EDT

[#33]

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Wet or dry tumbler?

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Quoted:
I might give them a call but I think I'm OK.

What cheap media should I try for a little rock tumbler?

Wet or dry tumbler?

It can do both.

Posted: 6/20/2016 1:48:47 PM EDT

[#34]

Wet or dry, you are going to need to buy some additional stuff (media, media separator) .

Wet tumbling is the current trend and there are tons of posts about it.

A rock tumbler is not ideal for dry tumbling but could be used.

Walnut blasting media from harbor freight is a good choice for dry

Posted: 6/20/2016 2:31:26 PM EDT

[#35]

Since I'm using carbide dies, do I really need to case lube and then tumble the finished rounds?

Posted: 6/20/2016 3:58:59 PM EDT

[#36]

Rifle, you always lube.

Straight wall pistol, not necessary

Bottle neck pistol , highly recommended.

The community is split on my next comment, but if you don't want to tumble your lube off the case, use Hordnay One Shot lube. The way it dries, you don't have to tumble. People knock it because if you don't spray enough on, you will stick a case in the die.

Posted: 6/20/2016 4:12:46 PM EDT

[#37]

Rifle - I lube ( home brew dillon style case lube )

Pistols over 40 cal - i give a light spritz of case lube...after they are loaded, I tumble 20 mins in corn cob media

The Dillon 650 just seems a bit smoother that way

On the 550b i lubed rifle only

.