Does anyone reload 5.7x28 on a progressive press? Is it even possible to reload 5.7x28 on a progressive?

I am looking to start reloading 5.7x28. The problem is that the Dillon 650 or 1050 doesn't support that cartridge. This means that I will be buying my first ever nonDillon progressive. Any recommendations? I absolutely refuse to reload on a single stage. I pretty much have a 1050 for each caliber I shoot anyways, so adding one more dedicated press isn't a big deal (I hate caliber conversions).


I'm a very experienced reloader, going on 20+ years, so the difficulty of the round will not deter me.


Also, I'm going to use low weight .223 bullets (25-40 grains). I am guessing that 5.7 bullets are just shorter .223 bullets. What do you guys use?

Elite ammunition makes a 5.7 shellplate for the 550. I am not aware of any other progressive options short of getting a full custom job.

5.7 brass has a bad reputation of giving out or feeding poorly once the factory lacquer wears. I am reluctant to get into the cartridge due to the difficulty of reloading it economically and effectively.

A long time ago Dillon made a 550 conversion kit for 25 ACP. This included special locator bars, due to the very small rim. With the .25, the brass would have a tendency to drift out of the shell holder, and could lock things up, so they developed special locator pins.

As far as I know, they are impossible to find, and no one makes them. So while you could use the 5.7 shell plate, as was mentioned, you might have problems with regular locator pins. You might not.


I don't think anyone else even makes true progressive for the 5.7. So either a custom shell plate for the 550, or single stage are your options. Don't hold your breath on finding a 25 ACP conversion for the 550, extremely few were made, and when they pop up, they command a premium.

I reload it, but not on a progressive. Bought an Elite Ammunition shellholder, and run it on a single stage. The only progressive shell plate that I'm aware of, is the aforementioned Dillon 550.

Don't tumble the cases. Instead, clean with simple green and water for a few minutes.  I load 55 grain bullets with HS-6 for subsonic loads, but need to work up a good 40 grain ballistic tip load.

Elite includes pins with their plate.

How long does it take to make one hundred 5.7x28 rounds on a single stage?

Same as any round. The issue with 5.7 reloading is .1 or .2 grains can make a hot round into one that pops the mag off a ps90. The sizeing and seating is like any other.

I use Hornady 40gr VMAX for supers, same as the FNH ammo with the only exception being a red Hornady vs blue FNH polymer tip.

I messed around with 55gr subs and found a load that works, I just don't ever really load or shoot them now.

I deprime on a single stage before washing in warm water and soap to remove much of the carbon and any dirt and debris. Rinse thoroughly in hot water to get any soap residue out of the mix before spreading on a large towel to roll around and dry the outsides and let sit for 24-48hrs to get the inside.

As was mentioned, traditional tumbling in pins or media can remove the lacquer coating which may lead to failures to extract. I do tumble in corn cob to remove the resizing lube, but only for 10min. That seems to get the lube off but leave the lacquer in place.

I use the Elite Ammo 550B shell plate and locator pins for resizing, but then use a Chargemaster and single stage press for powder and seating.

I'll eventually invest in an RCBS lathe style trimmer with 3-way trimming head and EA shell plate, but I use a Lee Zip Trim at the moment. While tedious, it does get the job done since Giraud doesn't make an insert for his trimmer.

Chamfer and deburr on a Lyman case prep center and then it's powder and seat.

It's the most labor intensive round I reload, but it's still worth it to get superior velocity and reduced cost compared to the FNH 197 or American Eagle offerings, IMHO.