NOTE,  the archive toggle  is set for this thread.

That means you don't have to bump this thread to keep it out of the archives.

So copy the link for future reference. dryflash3

As of late there has been quite a few questions regarding the 300 Blackout. With the blessing of the mods I have created this master thread to help consolidate all of the questions and data. Hopefully with this thread we can accomplish a couple different things. First make it easier to answer and find questions, and second gain enough info and data to start building good load data for the database.

Please post all your Blackout questions here.

If you post data please make sure it includes all of this info:

Data should include:

1) Caliber
2) Case manufacturer
3) Case length
4) Bullet manufacturer
5) Bullet weight and type
6) Powder type
7) Powder charge weight
8) OAL
9) Primer
10) Firearm tested in
11) Chrono data (Avg, ES, SD)

Well, I'll contribute by adding the 3 loads that I've worked up for my 9" .300 AAC Blackout AR with H2 Buffer. All cases were Remington .300 AAC Blackout trimmed to 1.358" and primed with Remington 7.5 primers. Chrono set up at 15' from muzzle. 5 shot strings

General Target Round
Bullet: 110 gr. Hornady V-Max (23010)
Powder: 19.6 gr. Hodgdon H110
OAL: 2.040"
Ave. Velocity: 2183 fps
ES: 74 fps
SD: 27.04 fps
Temp: 74*F

Subsonic Round
Bullet: 220 gr. Sierra Match King (2240)
Powder: 10.6 gr. AA 1680
OAL: 2.090"
Ave. Velocity: 1037 fps
ES: 11 fps
SD: 4.47 fps
Temp: 96*F

Self Defense Load
Bullet: 110 gr. Barnes TAC-TX (30811)
Powder: 20.0 gr. Hodgdon H110
OAL: 2.250"
Ave. Velocity: 2213 fps
ES: 46 fps
SD: 16.92 fps
Temp: 68*F
Note: Cartridges were crimped using a Lee crimping die

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
EDIT: Added burn rate chart link

This is a great link to the different burn rates of powders.

http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

AA Load data chart:


Hodgon Load data chart:

Man this is a great thread as I'm just getting started in 300 blk. Thanks for all the info so far gentlemen!!

How about some info for some Hornady A-max 155 or 168. I see a lot of good data but nothing for these rounds, what gives?

A lot of the data that is out there has to be tweaked for specific bullets. If you look above at the Accurate Arms chart they list data for a Sierra 155 and 168 bullet. I would start with their min load and work your way up.

Great information!

All Loads:
300 BLK
LC Mixed 5.56 brass... bling'd with SS media  
Trimmed to 1.358"
30 samples: 6 groups of 5
11.5" Black Hole Weaponry barrel, 3 land polygonal, 1:11 twist, carbine length gas port




Crimped w/Lee Factory Crimp Die

---

Hornady 110 grain VMAX
Hodgdon H110 @ 20.0 grains
2.040" OAL
CCI #41
2286 fps; 1275 ft/lb; Range = 83; STD =21; Temp = 78°
Nosler 125 grain Ballistic Tip
Hodgdon H110 @ 18.5 grains
2.100" OAL
CCI #41
2131 fps; 1259 ft/lb; Range = 54; STD=15; Temp = 78°
PRVI 145 grain FMJBT
Hodgdon H110 @ 17.0 grains
2.140" OAL (seated to middle of cannelure)
1933 fps; 1202 ft/lb; Range = 61; STD = 14; Temp = 63°
PRVI 145 grain FMJBT
Hodgdon H110 @ 17.5 grains
2.140" OAL (seated to middle of cannelure)




1952 fps; 1226 ft/lb; Range = 66; STD = 21; Temp = 71°
Hornady 150 grain FMJBT
Hodgdon H110 @ 17.5 grains
2.075" OAL (seated to middle of cannelure)




1970 fps; 1291 ft/lb; Range = 41; STD = 10; Temp = 65°
Hornady 150 grain FMJBT
Hodgdon H110 @ 18.0 grains
2.075" OAL (seated to middle of cannelure)




2015 fps; 1350 ft/lb; Range = 42; STD = 10; Temp = 68°
MAX Load... primer radius beginning to disappear, no blown primers, no FTE
No claims are made as to the safety or usefulness of these loads.  Your
mileage may vary!
That is all...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Quick question Waldorf: Does lee make a 300 BLK FCD or do you use a .308 Win FCD? I haven't been able to find a 300 BLK specific FCD.

You mean like this
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/548891/lee-factory-crimp-die-300-aac-blackout

Link made hot.

One way to learn how to do this is to edit your thread to see the tags around the link.

 AeroE

OST

That's the one!  If I ever get around to it, I'm going to try the 110 grain VMAX and 125 grain ballistic tip bullets with Lil Gun.  I think I'll be able to get a little more velocity from them, or about the same velocity with less pressure.  So says QuickLoad anyway.
That is all...





 
 
 

Thanks for that link. I must have missed it when I was looking for my dies. As soon as I get my bcg in the mail I'll be able to try out some of my handloads for this caliber.

Now this, is a tag.

Does anyone have info regarding WC820 pulldown powder for 300blk loading?

I have 16 inch barrels, 1-8 and 1-9, with no specific bullet weight in mind yet.



I'm cutting down a few barrels of once fired military Federal dated from 03 to 07.



I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks for any info.

According to this Site you can use the H110 load data for that powder.

Thought I would share some pictures of my process.

starting with once fired brass...

I use a Harbor Freight mini chop saw

Cut the cases right at the start of the shoulder


size, decap, trim



dont have pics of swaging or reaming but you get the idea
finally stainless tumbling


The reason for using the chop saw is because Dillon will not warranty the trimmer if you use it to cut the full amount in one pass.

300 Blackout has been something in the making for the past year or two for me.  Started gathering components and equipment for the caliber, then with the recent panic pulled the trigger on an AAC MPW 16".

Here are the two rounds I will be working up:

Supersonic:

Hornady 150gr FMJBT
Lil Gun or H110 powder
CCI 400 SR primer

Subsonic:

Hornady 208gr Match/A-MAX
AA1680 powder
Remington 7 1/2 BR primer

I have the 9th Edition Hornady manual (yes with the COAL error) and will be using those powder loads to start off with.

My process so far for making 300BLK brass from once fired .223 brass:

1) Harbor Freight mini-saw chop to within a couple tenths
2) debur and chamfer
3) full length sizing Hornady 300BLK die
4) final trim to case length (1.358")
5) final debug and chamfer

First 27 cases finished and ready to load.

Hornady 9 lists Max length at 1.400, trim to length of 1.390.


From Hornady's 9th edition errata page: Page 380, 300 Whisper/AAC Blackout – Case schematic and case (max and trim) lengths are from an early, non-standardized version. Max Case length should be: 1.368” and Case Trim Length should be: 1.358”.


http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/9thEdErrata.pdf


HD714

I'll be subscribing.  

In the process of building a 300 blackout.  I have about 300 rounds of once fired 223 and 556 brass I plan to convert.

Anyone seen a good load with barnes tacx blacktips and lilgun?

What weight are the bullets? Are you looking to go super or sub sonic? What rifle are you shooting them out of?

The only load data I've seen for these bullets was with H110 from Barnes' website.

x2, I used H110 in the few that Ive loaded

110 grain supersonic....out of cmmg upper.   I use lilgun for beowulf and saw some of loads for blackout use it so was hoping to not stock up on new powder.

You could always try calling Barnes and getting their opinion. I know there is more load information in their load manual than there is on the pages of their website. However, .300 Blackout is only on the website.

According to one of the charts I posted they were loading around 18.9 - 20.0 grains of lil gun with a 110gr bullet.

Were they using the Barnes TAC-TX bullet? The thing with all Barnes bullets is that since they are all copper, they will be longer than a lead/copper round of the same weight when compared to other manufacturers. I'm sure it can be done, but you would just need to double check the OAL and start low and work your way up. I load 110 gr. V-Max and 110 gr. TAC-TX and there is a significant OAL difference between the two.

Ok, I wasn't gonna try and add anything to this thread load related but I guess for some reason I feel like I need to. Right now I don't have a chrony but I am going to get one.  What did people ever do before they built such things....

Anyway, I have been loading for the 300 black so I just want to share one thing I have learned.

It's about H110 powder.  Guys, you gotta be serious with this stuff.  I have been running it with no real problems but I had to learn how to use it first.  You can't run it with a wimpy load.  If you 'underload' it the stuff just wont work right.  It's hard to explain and some of you just ain't gonna like it, but in my opinion for bullets in the bottom range maybe up to 125 grs this stuff is great.  You just gotta realize it works its magic when you run it kinda at the top of the envelope.  I have tried it with bullets in the middle weight range and even though the gun ran fine the bullet performance seemed subpar.  Yes, even without a chrony I can examine a target and reclaimed bullets and judge a lack of performance.

Here is a picture of my simple carbine.  This picture was taken just a few days ago.  I was sighting in the mbus iron sights at 50 yds.  I hate going to the range on a saturday so I was only prepared to stay long enough to get the job done.  This target had 9 rounds fired into it.  Bullets were Hornady 110 gr Vmax.  The powder was H110 loaded into converted brass made from 5.56 cases.   These were first firings from the converted brass and the accuracy was still excellent.  For those of you that are unaware the first firing of converted brass is the initial fire forming and the rounds may not be as accurate as those made from factory cases or converted cases with previous fire forming on them.  The rear shoulder on un-fired conversion brass is rounded and not yet has the proper angled shoulder on it.  It will have this after the first firing.  It's late and I don't feel like dragging stuff out to take a picture, just look at your fired brass and you will know of what I speak.

Back to what you see.  I am shooting a Wilson Combat barrel, 1/8 twist, stainless, LaRue Handguard.  20 grs H100 pushing a Hornady 110 grn Vmax bullets.  Ejection was crisp and recoil was mild.  Cases looked very good after shooting.  I use Rem 7 1/2 BR primers and had just a slight bit of flattening.  No mushrooming or setback from the primers.  No case stretchmarks or beat-up cases.  I have had some overpressure signs from working with different bullets and I assure you that while the current load is on the upper edge it is NOT over.  Be aware these groups were made with iron sights at 50 yds, I am not a benchrest shooter or a sniper.  And the cases were not previously fireformed..  I am however happy with my results and the round.

Work your loads properly and do not assume what works in mine will work in yours.
Thank you

Good info thanks

Well, I tried to form 300 Blackout from Wolf/Tula steel cases. Here's what happened.



With the expander ball removed, the steel cases form fine. Little more resistance than brass. Luckily I found a dremel in the garage that my wife's step dad was trying to sell at our garage sale. Cut brass no problem. Cut steel cases, some sparks but able to cut. Chamfer/debur, reinsert the expander ball on the die, down stroke, feel it form, upstroke stops halfway. Try harder and harder, case pulls the expander rod out of die. No matter how much I tightened the rod down, the expander ball would not pull through the case.  To the point where it stripped the threads.


Had to cut the case to free the rod.

Moral of story, Steel cases will form easy but for some reason would not stretch back enough to let the expander ball through in my case.
Since brass is getting scarce and reloading steel cases can be done, I gave forming steel cases a try for a popular cartridge to see if it can be done. So far with my method, didn't work. I might be wrong, but I like to try things to see if it works instead of guessing. Just food for thought.

Interesting. I got as far as trying to cut the steel with my HF chop saw and it dulled the blade. After that I gave up.

I dont think reforming steel is worth the effort, and you better be careful if you even do get it going...I was gonna explain my thoughts on it but since my thoughts would prolly get blasted I will let it ride.  A hint: I think the extra surface area of the larger and more straight neck might cause extraction issues especially with subsonic rounds...anyway...

You can always try running your die with the expander removed, its just gonna give you a tighter case mouth, or you can do what I do with my larger cases and try lubing inside the case mouth as well...

Be careful with that wolfshit dude!

edit:  I know you said you do that, but I always trim mine before reforming then final trim afterwards,  but I would never run steel on my trimmer.  the trim head wont last very long

With the expander remove the case mouth measured around .290 in. I did try to seat a bullet but it caused an hour glass look in the neck.

I tried doing some steel case a couple of years ago and could not get it to work.  It would size fine as far as not sticking in the sizing die. But after sizing it would not fit in my case gauge and if I sized it without the expander the results were the same as wormfoods.  Made it very difficult to load a bullet.  I never ended up trying to load and fire any.  I just keep them for .223.

I do not recall but it may require a neck turn like what use to have to be done with .300 whisper when made from .223/5.56 instead of .221 fireball.

Good stuff! I was loading 300 Whisper before Blackout was cool.



Blackout chamber neck is cut larger because cases are formed from thicker 223 brass. Whisper chamber has smaller neck deminsions because cases are formed by expanding neck using thinner .221 Fireball cases (no cutting or trimming involved). My Redding 300/221 dies will make both the Whisper and Blackout.



I just ordered a AR15 M4 upper receiver for my future 300 Blackout. These are the same receivers Compass Lake Engineering uses. Manufactured by AO Precision of Florida. (White T markings top of receiver) Limit one per customer http://www.midwayusa.com/product/898248?cm_vc=S014

Q:  Can you kindly suggest an optimal powder (from list below) for getting SUBSONIC 180 grain soft point pulls to function with my barrel?   I am limited to the following powders suitable for 300 BLK:

Win 296 (same as Hodgdon H110)
Lil' Gun
5744 XMP

I also have these powders on hand:  Vihta Vouri  3N38 and  N-350, Hercules 2400.  Again, I am only looking to shoot these subsonic & mostly suppressed.

The barrel is a 16" Wilson Combat that has the carbine gas system (I am not sure what size the port is).

Cases are both factory 300BLK and converted 5.56 cases (mostly LC). Frderal large rifle primers.

Can is an old AAC 762.  

These pulled 180 grn SP bullets fed fairly well when I shot them as supersonic; I used the Win 296 (I think around 16 or 17 grains) and loaded them to the maximum OAL that would fit in my biggest magazine (an H&K).  I did get one "nose dive" into the feed ramp.

Anyway, given my gas system, what powder would provide the best functioning?

I know the charge will need to be around 10 grains or so; anyone have a Wilson 16" like mine & can suggest a charge?  Thanks!

I would try lil gun. Read through the charts listed on the first page for some starting numbers.

Im running 19 grains with lilgun

how do you like the Lil Gun?  I just picked up a puond but havent gotten to it yet.

It's all I use for blackout

Both of my loads for my 8" Noveske.

110gr V-max, 20gr H110, WSR primer, Remington brass, 2.040 COAL, 2100 FPS.

225gr BTHP, 11.5gr A1680, WSR primer, Remington brass, 2.260 COAL, 1000 FPS, Lee Factory Crimp.

The subsonic load is very consistent and reliable thanks to the extra power and velocity over factory offerings, although it does not stay in P-mags well because of the extra long COAL, so I use modified lancer mags.

Ok, so I'm posting this here because anytime I even mention "300 blackout" someone directs me to this thread... I just started reloading for the first time. It was probably a dumb idea on my part, but I decided to start with some 300 blackout since my upper will be here this week. I picked up my chop saw from Harbor Freight and cut down about 50 or so .223 brass. I set up my Lee Anniversary press and loaded the resizing die into it as I've seen in all the videos I've watched. Now, here's where I'm stuck; when I try to raise the case into the die it just doesn't feel right. On all the videos the person easily pulls down on the lever and reforms the neck of the cut .223 brass. Whenever I go to resize it it is pretty difficult to pull the lever. It feels like something will break if I pull it much more than I have been. Granted, I haven't done this before, so I'm sure I must be doing something wrong.. I even tried adding some case lube on them to see if that would be it any easier, but nothing changed.

Any advice?

You need more lube for forming. What lube are you using? You may need imperial sizing/case forming lube. Also apply it to inside neck and neck sizer button.



http://www.midwayusa.com/product/519525/imperial-case-sizing-wax-2-oz
....

I put some of the Lee case lube that came with the kit. I put quite a bit on it. Guess I'l try adding more, and if that doesn't work I'll get some of that wax.

After chopping the brass and before putting it through your resizing die did you first debur and chamfer the cases?  If not I bet that is your problem, the die is getting snagged and likely damaged by the rough edge on the case mouth left by the chop saw.

I have the exact same mini chop saw, and each case gets touched by the debur/chamfer tool then into the full length sizing die.  I've used Hornady Unique wax case lube with great results.  However for the sake of time with larger batches I switched to Hornady One-Shot case lube and had zero issues, most cases resize with little to no effort.