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Posted: 12/13/2012 10:45:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
NOTE, the archive toggle is set for this thread.
That means you don't have to bump this thread to keep it out of the archives. So copy the link for future reference. dryflash3 As of late there has been quite a few questions regarding the 300 Blackout. With the blessing of the mods I have created this master thread to help consolidate all of the questions and data. Hopefully with this thread we can accomplish a couple different things. First make it easier to answer and find questions, and second gain enough info and data to start building good load data for the database. Please post all your Blackout questions here. If you post data please make sure it includes all of this info: Data should include: 1) Caliber 2) Case manufacturer 3) Case length 4) Bullet manufacturer 5) Bullet weight and type 6) Powder type 7) Powder charge weight 8) OAL 9) Primer 10) Firearm tested in 11) Chrono data (Avg, ES, SD) |
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Originally Posted By craig24680: Have a 300blk bolt gun on order to be used for hunting deer and suppressor plinking. Are magnum primers necessary or just added insurance for semi's? View Quote I've run quite a few subs with pistol primers. Short answer for supers is it's very unlikely you'll need magnum primers. |
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Need a little help from the 300BO experts here. Picked up a few thousand of these 220gr projectiles. They are pulls from 220gr 300BO subs. Hollow point flat base.
Anyone have any clue who makes these are what projectile I should use for load data?? BULLET IMAGE 1 BULLET IMAGE 2 |
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Originally Posted By craig24680: Didn't know that. Right now for supers I'll be using Win296 and subs H4198 haven't decided on bullet but for general plinking I have lots of 150gr M1 garand style bullets View Quote H-4198 I load in 223, standard primer. Don't use this powder in 300 blk. Go with what the loading data calls out for when in doubt. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I use a mag primer with H-110 (same thing as W-296). H-4198 I load in 223, standard primer. Don't use this powder in 300 blk. Go with what the loading data calls out for when in doubt. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By craig24680: Didn't know that. Right now for supers I'll be using Win296 and subs H4198 haven't decided on bullet but for general plinking I have lots of 150gr M1 garand style bullets H-4198 I load in 223, standard primer. Don't use this powder in 300 blk. Go with what the loading data calls out for when in doubt. Thanks, I originally picked up some Federal small rifle primers, might see if I can find small rifle mag primers for testing. Not arguing as I based my powder purchase off Hodgdon's website and it claims H4198 is OK in 300blk. However as I am a novice, is there a specific reason for not using it in 300blk? |
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Originally Posted By craig24680: Thanks, I originally picked up some Federal small rifle primers, might see if I can find small rifle mag primers for testing. Not arguing as I based my powder purchase off Hodgdon's website and it claims H4198 is OK in 300blk. However as I am a novice, is there a specific reason for not using it in 300blk? View Quote Lots of choices for powder in 300 blk. I haven't tried that particular powder in 300 blk. |
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Originally Posted By craig24680: Thanks, I originally picked up some Federal small rifle primers, might see if I can find small rifle mag primers for testing. Not arguing as I based my powder purchase off Hodgdon's website and it claims H4198 is OK in 300blk. However as I am a novice, is there a specific reason for not using it in 300blk? View Quote I used plenty of 4198 for subs, worked flawless in my 12.5 and 8. I found CFE BLK to run better in my 6" 300 blk. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: All i'm saying is I have never used it in 300 blk, not saying unsuitable. Lots of choices for powder in 300 blk. I haven't tried that particular powder in 300 blk. View Quote Gotcha. I read it as a qarningnot to use it, not a " I've never used it" type, sorry. |
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Anyone use the NOE 247 gr molds?
I’m thinking about trying my first batch today. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Anyone use the NOE 247 gr molds? I’m thinking about trying my first batch today. View Quote I have used it a lot, to include their hollow point version. The Hollow point pins were not big enough to get any type of reliable expansion ot subsonic velocities so I made a bigger set. I powder coat. I have used the following loads. all at 2.135 OAL. Red Dot 5.5g 1000fps for single shot/bolt action guns very quiet suppressed out of my model 7 and my straight pull bolt action 10.5 inch AR15. AA1680 11g 1000/1090 9.5inch/16 inch will sometimes go supersonic in the 16 inch H4198 10.9g 950/1030fps 9.5 inch/16 inch Lil Gun 8.3g 1020fps 9.5 inch My go to is always 1680. It is not anywhere near as quite as some others, but it just works for me. |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 5 un-socialized homeschoolers and 1, 11B |
Originally Posted By garyd: I have used it a lot, to include their hollow point version. The Hollow point pins were not big enough to get any type of reliable expansion ot subsonic velocities so I made a bigger set. I powder coat. I have used the following loads. all at 2.135 OAL. Red Dot 5.5g 1000fps for single shot/bolt action guns very quiet suppressed out of my model 7 and my straight pull bolt action 10.5 inch AR15. AA1680 11g 1000/1090 9.5inch/16 inch will sometimes go supersonic in the 16 inch H4198 10.9g 950/1030fps 9.5 inch/16 inch Lil Gun 8.3g 1020fps 9.5 inch My go to is always 1680. It is not anywhere near as quite as some others, but it just works for me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By garyd: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Anyone use the NOE 247 gr molds? I’m thinking about trying my first batch today. I have used it a lot, to include their hollow point version. The Hollow point pins were not big enough to get any type of reliable expansion ot subsonic velocities so I made a bigger set. I powder coat. I have used the following loads. all at 2.135 OAL. Red Dot 5.5g 1000fps for single shot/bolt action guns very quiet suppressed out of my model 7 and my straight pull bolt action 10.5 inch AR15. AA1680 11g 1000/1090 9.5inch/16 inch will sometimes go supersonic in the 16 inch H4198 10.9g 950/1030fps 9.5 inch/16 inch Lil Gun 8.3g 1020fps 9.5 inch My go to is always 1680. It is not anywhere near as quite as some others, but it just works for me. If you powder coat, do you also gas check? Thanks ETA: I molded some bullets yesterday, but between inexperience, inconsistent mold temp, and ignorance as far as alloy, my bullets kept coming back with wrinkles. Over and over and over. Today, I’ll smoke the molds first. Maybe that will help. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: If you powder coat, do you also gas check? Thanks View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By garyd: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Anyone use the NOE 247 gr molds? I’m thinking about trying my first batch today. I have used it a lot, to include their hollow point version. The Hollow point pins were not big enough to get any type of reliable expansion ot subsonic velocities so I made a bigger set. I powder coat. I have used the following loads. all at 2.135 OAL. Red Dot 5.5g 1000fps for single shot/bolt action guns very quiet suppressed out of my model 7 and my straight pull bolt action 10.5 inch AR15. AA1680 11g 1000/1090 9.5inch/16 inch will sometimes go supersonic in the 16 inch H4198 10.9g 950/1030fps 9.5 inch/16 inch Lil Gun 8.3g 1020fps 9.5 inch My go to is always 1680. It is not anywhere near as quite as some others, but it just works for me. If you powder coat, do you also gas check? Thanks No. I do not gas check any 300blk subsonics. Even before I started powder coating. |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 5 un-socialized homeschoolers and 1, 11B |
Tested 11.8 gr of AA1680 today.
SMK 220 gr New FC brass (didn’t resize) Rem 7.5 primer Lee factory crimp BA 10.5 barrel (or 10.3 forget which) Form 1 can (freeze plugs) About 2 MOA at 50 yards. I think that could be closer to 1 MOA with a 3x magnifier (or my eyeglasses) Av 953 fps Sd 20 fps Next batch I’ll use 12.0 gr and tighten up the reloading (resize, trim, etc.). |
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215 Gr Flat point, bevel base Brazos precision bullet..
Assorted brass.(factory 300 BO) 7.7gr of lil gun.. Cci 400 SR primers Forgive me..I'm newish to reloading and 300 BO but what OAL am I needing to be at.. I'm seeing it varies a lot. 2.26 to get just in the mag and then I'm seeing 2.00 on some cast bullets that are about the same weight..200-230ish etc.. I'm gonna try 3 groups of 10.. One at 2.25...one at 2.10...and another at 2.20.. I even saw a Hornady 190gr loaded to 1.93 OAL.. Any help/suggestions thanks. |
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@garyd
My NOE 247 is the 311 and I’ll be shooting it from an AR. I assume I’ll need to get a bullet sizer and size down to .309? Before or after I powder coat? Thank you! |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: If you powder coat, do you also gas check? Thanks ETA: I molded some bullets yesterday, but between inexperience, inconsistent mold temp, and ignorance as far as alloy, my bullets kept coming back with wrinkles. Over and over and over. Today, I'll smoke the molds first. Maybe that will help. View Quote Frosted bullets means too hot. Link to a free Casting book you can print off if you wish. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: @garyd My NOE 247 is the 311 and I'll be shooting it from an AR. I assume I'll need to get a bullet sizer and size down to .309? Before or after I powder coat? Thank you! View Quote https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Sizing is done after powder coating. In 300 blk I size to .310. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: @garyd My NOE 247 is the 311 and I'll be shooting it from an AR. I assume I'll need to get a bullet sizer and size down to .309? Before or after I powder coat? Thank you! https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. this is pretty much what I do |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 5 un-socialized homeschoolers and 1, 11B |
Originally Posted By dryflash3: Always a good answer when you show up. Thanks for taking the time. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By garyd: That does seem to be an issue with this thread. Information is here, but can be difficult to locate, simply because of the number of pages. Thanks for taking the time. I Should probably answer more. |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 5 un-socialized homeschoolers and 1, 11B |
Originally Posted By dryflash3: Wrinkled bullets mean mold or lead was not hot enough. Frosted bullets means too hot. Link to a free Casting book you can print off if you wish. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm View Quote Thanks. I believe that is a book I read through last night (in slightly different format). Originally Posted By dryflash3: Sizing is done after powder coating. In 300 blk I size to .310. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. View Quote I have a Lee .311 bullet sizer, so I’ll run 4-5 through it and see how they measure out. Maybe I can avoid spending the $30. Originally Posted By garyd: this is pretty much what I do View Quote thanks. You should post and answer more. My casting today turned out much better. I smoked the dies. I warmed them up by setting them on the pot (crucible? Melter?). Only had to discard about 1 in 10 today. That’s so far ahead of where I was yesterday that it’s shocking, basically the inverse from yesterday. Just need to figure out how to estimate hardness and maybe try to find some source of tin to add to the alloy. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Thanks. I believe that is a book I read through last night (in slightly different format). I have a Lee .311 bullet sizer, so I’ll run 4-5 through it and see how they measure out. Maybe I can avoid spending the $30. thanks. You should post and answer more. My casting today turned out much better. I smoked the dies. I warmed them up by setting them on the pot (crucible? Melter?). Only had to discard about 1 in 10 today. That’s so far ahead of where I was yesterday that it’s shocking, basically the inverse from yesterday. Just need to figure out how to estimate hardness and maybe try to find some source of tin to add to the alloy. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Wrinkled bullets mean mold or lead was not hot enough. Frosted bullets means too hot. Link to a free Casting book you can print off if you wish. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm Thanks. I believe that is a book I read through last night (in slightly different format). Originally Posted By dryflash3: Sizing is done after powder coating. In 300 blk I size to .310. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. I have a Lee .311 bullet sizer, so I’ll run 4-5 through it and see how they measure out. Maybe I can avoid spending the $30. Originally Posted By garyd: this is pretty much what I do thanks. You should post and answer more. My casting today turned out much better. I smoked the dies. I warmed them up by setting them on the pot (crucible? Melter?). Only had to discard about 1 in 10 today. That’s so far ahead of where I was yesterday that it’s shocking, basically the inverse from yesterday. Just need to figure out how to estimate hardness and maybe try to find some source of tin to add to the alloy. I use straight wheel weights, and range scrap. I have found with powder coating Tin is really not needed. I know some still recommend it. I have not found it to be necessary. |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 5 un-socialized homeschoolers and 1, 11B |
Originally Posted By garyd: I use straight wheel weights, and range scrap. I have found with powder coating Tin is really not needed. I know some still recommend it. I have not found it to be necessary. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By garyd: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Wrinkled bullets mean mold or lead was not hot enough. Frosted bullets means too hot. Link to a free Casting book you can print off if you wish. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm Thanks. I believe that is a book I read through last night (in slightly different format). Originally Posted By dryflash3: Sizing is done after powder coating. In 300 blk I size to .310. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537?pid=112145 It goes in your press like a die, Works well and at a good price. Yes I enlarged my die from .309 to .310. Note: Lee dies are always undersize, so size a bullet and measure it to know the real diameter you are getting. I have a Lee .311 bullet sizer, so I’ll run 4-5 through it and see how they measure out. Maybe I can avoid spending the $30. Originally Posted By garyd: this is pretty much what I do thanks. You should post and answer more. My casting today turned out much better. I smoked the dies. I warmed them up by setting them on the pot (crucible? Melter?). Only had to discard about 1 in 10 today. That’s so far ahead of where I was yesterday that it’s shocking, basically the inverse from yesterday. Just need to figure out how to estimate hardness and maybe try to find some source of tin to add to the alloy. I use straight wheel weights, and range scrap. I have found with powder coating Tin is really not needed. I know some still recommend it. I have not found it to be necessary. Roger that. |
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Powder coating these long bullets for subsonics ain’t easy. I don’t think I have a keeper in the entire initial run I did this morning (they’ll be shot for function and EARLY load development).
I’m adjusting my technique and I’ll start again. ETA1: Ok, here is how I ended up.. took a wire mesh and bolted it to the pan. Now they stand up. Attached File ETA2: early runs on the left 3. Last two are later runs. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By s10nova: 215 Gr Flat point, bevel base Brazos precision bullet.. Assorted brass.(factory 300 BO) 7.7gr of lil gun.. Cci 400 SR primers Forgive me..I'm newish to reloading and 300 BO but what OAL am I needing to be at.. I'm seeing it varies a lot. 2.26 to get just in the mag and then I'm seeing 2.00 on some cast bullets that are about the same weight..200-230ish etc.. I'm gonna try 3 groups of 10.. One at 2.25...one at 2.10...and another at 2.20.. I even saw a Hornady 190gr loaded to 1.93 OAL.. Any help/suggestions thanks. View Quote I'm currently working with this same bullet n110, wolf srm primers. I'm shooting it in a 8.5" pistol length gas system ar and a rem 700 i've loaded at 2.0 and 2.2 coal Are you having any stabilization issues? |
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Need some load data for these NOE 247 hogs I’ve made. Anyone have any links?
Thanks |
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10.3 gns of 1680 under a Gallant 217 coated lead. Federal small rifle primer.
980 fps, ES 18 fps. LC brass. No pressure. 8 inch M-16. H3 buffer, Tubb flatwire spring, Thunderbeast Ultra 7 suppressor. Cycled fine. |
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Talked to FatMcNasty. He said 10.5 gr AA1680 with COAL of 2.210. So I started at 10.0 and did a run of 10. I also did a run of (10) 10.3 gr. Tomorrow, I’ll roll some more runs going all the way up to 11.5.
My rifle has the 12.5” AAC branded upper. ETA: Decided to only go 10.0, 10.3, 10.5, 10.7, and 11.0. I’ll try to find some time this week and see if I can get to the range for testing. My birthday is next week. Wife mentioned one of the molds I showed her (RCBS 311-130 SP), if only I could find it in stock! |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Talked to FatMcNasty. He said 10.5 gr AA1680 with COAL of 2.210. So I started at 10.0 and did a run of 10. I also did a run of (10) 10.3 gr. Tomorrow, I’ll roll some more runs going all the way up to 11.5. My rifle has the 12.5” AAC branded upper. View Quote You'll probably be happy with 1680 somewhere between 10.0 and 10.5, the same with IMR 4227. I'm coating the NOE bullet with Hi-Tek and my barrel is 9". |
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Anyone run the RCBS .309 130 gr Spire Point? I would powder coating the bullets.
Does you HAVE to run gas checks or will it be accurate without them? |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Powder coating these long bullets for subsonics ain't easy. I don't think I have a keeper in the entire initial run I did this morning (they'll be shot for function and EARLY load development). I'm adjusting my technique and I'll start again. ETA1: Ok, here is how I ended up.. took a wire mesh and bolted it to the pan. Now they stand up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/F5F7BB51-187C-4ADD-90AC-891E197DDA35_jpe-1391020.JPG ETA2: early runs on the left 3. Last two are later runs. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/1FC54939-0DCF-4907-BEE5-2FEFD3AFDDB4_jpe-1391035.JPG View Quote
Also, fwiw I use powder from Smoke over at castboolits.gunloads.com. Good powder makes a difference. Especially black. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Anyone run the RCBS .309 130 gr Spire Point? I would powder coating the bullets. Does you HAVE to run gas checks or will it be accurate without them? View Quote Leave off the $.03 gas check and you shoot patterns instead of groups. I have found if a bullet is designed for a gas check use one if you want accuracy, or use a bullet designed without a gas check. Not everyone will agree with me, just reporting what I have found in my testing. Good luck. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: My experience with PC bullets in 300 blk (Lee 160 gr 2R) is accuracy is good with gas checks. Leave off the $.03 gas check and you shoot patterns instead of groups. I have found if a bullet is designed for a gas check use one if you want accuracy, or use a bullet designed without a gas check. Not everyone will agree with me, just reporting what I have found in my testing. Good luck. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Anyone run the RCBS .309 130 gr Spire Point? I would powder coating the bullets. Does you HAVE to run gas checks or will it be accurate without them? Leave off the $.03 gas check and you shoot patterns instead of groups. I have found if a bullet is designed for a gas check use one if you want accuracy, or use a bullet designed without a gas check. Not everyone will agree with me, just reporting what I have found in my testing. Good luck. Thanks. Someone needs to copy that RCBS design, except ditch the GC portion. |
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Originally Posted By Landshark9025: Try this:
Also, fwiw I use powder from Smoke over at castboolits.gunloads.com. Good powder makes a difference. Especially black. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Landshark9025: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Powder coating these long bullets for subsonics ain't easy. I don't think I have a keeper in the entire initial run I did this morning (they'll be shot for function and EARLY load development). I'm adjusting my technique and I'll start again. ETA1: Ok, here is how I ended up.. took a wire mesh and bolted it to the pan. Now they stand up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/F5F7BB51-187C-4ADD-90AC-891E197DDA35_jpe-1391020.JPG ETA2: early runs on the left 3. Last two are later runs. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/1FC54939-0DCF-4907-BEE5-2FEFD3AFDDB4_jpe-1391035.JPG
Also, fwiw I use powder from Smoke over at castboolits.gunloads.com. Good powder makes a difference. Especially black. I’ll definitely give that a try. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Thanks. Someone needs to copy that RCBS design, except ditch the GC portion. View Quote In pistol bullets I prefer my molds to not have a gas check. My PC bullets don't lead in 357 through with full H-110 charges in a Marlin M 1894. Same in 44 mag with hot through a Redhalk. I have one pistol mold that uses gas checks, a Lee 6 gang 310 gr. Shoots horrible without gas check. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: I'll definitely give that a try. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By Landshark9025: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Powder coating these long bullets for subsonics ain't easy. I don't think I have a keeper in the entire initial run I did this morning (they'll be shot for function and EARLY load development). I'm adjusting my technique and I'll start again. ETA1: Ok, here is how I ended up.. took a wire mesh and bolted it to the pan. Now they stand up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/F5F7BB51-187C-4ADD-90AC-891E197DDA35_jpe-1391020.JPG ETA2: early runs on the left 3. Last two are later runs. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/71141/1FC54939-0DCF-4907-BEE5-2FEFD3AFDDB4_jpe-1391035.JPG
Also, fwiw I use powder from Smoke over at castboolits.gunloads.com. Good powder makes a difference. Especially black. I'll definitely give that a try. |
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If you cannot see the irony in having a gun ban enforced by men with guns, then you fail to understand why the Second Amendment was written in the first place.
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Had a chance to chrono some 300 Blackout cast lead loads this weekend.
NOE 230 coated with Hi-Tek and 9.7 grains of IMR 4227 averaged 1043 FPS in a 9" barreled AR. Probably gonna drop these to 9.5 and try again. |
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Went out and tested the 300 AAC subs out of my 12.5” AAC factory upper. (I eventually want a 9.5” version as a companion to this one)
5 groups of 10. Half of each group with suppressor attached, 1/2 without. All weights are AA1680 powder charges under 247 gr NOE cast and powder coated WW lead. 10.0 gr no can- cycles perfectly, did not lock open. W/can- same 10.3 gr no can- cycles perfectly, did not lock open. W/can- same 10.5 gr no can- cycles perfectly, did not lock open. W/can- same 10.7 gr with and w/o can cycled perfectly and locked back. Stayed subsonic (roughly sea level, 81* F) 11.0 gr with and w/o can cycled perfectly locked back. Stayed subsonic (see above) So, I’ll probably just roll a bunch with 10.7 gr charges until I buy or borrow a chrono and see how close I’m pushing them. |
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Has anyone loaded Everglades 200gr with A1680 or Lil Gun? Ive been trying to poke through this thread but there is so much information I probably already went past it without seeing.
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Originally Posted By laxman09: Has anyone loaded Everglades 200gr with A1680 or Lil Gun? Ive been trying to poke through this thread but there is so much information I probably already went past it without seeing. View Quote The reviews on the Everglades page have multiple charges listed for 1680. https://www.evergladesammo.com/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html Link for review purposes only. |
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I haven't reloaded in a number of years, but I went and bought myself a 300 AAC pistol, so here I find myself looking at dusting off my Lee Pro 1000.
Looking to first load up cheap training ammo, where are the best deals for components? I have PLENTY of .mil primers for 5.56 and various powders (packed away, I don't even remember what I have anymore), so hopefully I can utilize that. I plan on getting a can and shooting subs, but for now I'll train with whatever is cheapest/easiest to produce. Not interested in making my own bullets though. I bought a few hundred rounds of ready ammunition, will be using the brass off of that or buying more brass (not going to trim my own brass). |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: I haven't reloaded in a number of years, but I went and bought myself a 300 AAC pistol, so here I find myself looking at dusting off my Lee Pro 1000. Looking to first load up cheap training ammo, where are the best deals for components? I have PLENTY of .mil primers for 5.56 and various powders (packed away, I don't even remember what I have anymore), so hopefully I can utilize that. I plan on getting a can and shooting subs, but for now I'll train with whatever is cheapest/easiest to produce. Not interested in making my own bullets though. I bought a few hundred rounds of ready ammunition, will be using the brass off of that or buying more brass (not going to trim my own brass). View Quote You’ll need some magnum pistol powder like W296/H110, lilGun, or other similar intended for magnum pistols (CFE Black is another choice). 147 gr pulls are one of your cheapest bets for supers. You can also sometimes get the Speer 125gr TNT for around 13 cents/ea. Subs? I think people like Everglades heavy bullets. Hunting or HD, Barnes TACTX 110 and 125 are the gold standard. |
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Here I am, Here I remain
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: You'll need some magnum pistol powder like W296/H110, lilGun, or other similar intended for magnum pistols (CFE Black is another choice). 147 gr pulls are one of your cheapest bets for supers. You can also sometimes get the Speer 125gr TNT for around 13 cents/ea. Subs? I think people like Everglades heavy bullets. Hunting or HD, Barnes TACTX 110 and 125 are the gold standard. View Quote For the 147 grain pulls, what is the favorite source for those? Quick google search yields a lot of OOS situation. |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Thanks! For the 147 grain pulls, what is the favorite source for those? Quick google search yields a lot of OOS situation. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: You'll need some magnum pistol powder like W296/H110, lilGun, or other similar intended for magnum pistols (CFE Black is another choice). 147 gr pulls are one of your cheapest bets for supers. You can also sometimes get the Speer 125gr TNT for around 13 cents/ea. Subs? I think people like Everglades heavy bullets. Hunting or HD, Barnes TACTX 110 and 125 are the gold standard. For the 147 grain pulls, what is the favorite source for those? Quick google search yields a lot of OOS situation. Everything is OOS. I’m not even sure of the best place. Natchez Wieners Brownells Midwayusa And probably 10 others I’m unaware of. BTW, I’m using 1680 for my subs, but find a modern manual or dig through some of the official online sources for a starting point (powder, primer, bullet combo). |
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Here I am, Here I remain
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