Hey y'all,

  I plan on getting into reloading soon, and plan to start off with .223 and 7mm Remington Magnum. I'm in the process of researching the methods and tools that I will need, and came across case

sizing and lubrication for said sizing. I am wondering wether to full length size or just neck size. I know that neck sizing makes it more accurate and I have heard that it extends case life. But then why

the need for full length sizing? I remember hearing something about it being necessary for auto-loaders. Is this true? As for lubrication, I have heard great things from people who use the pads for

applying lube the the cases, but wouldn't the case necks and shoulders miss out on the lube? Is it necessary to lube the case necks and shoulders? And is there any difference in lubrication

technique for full length sizing and neck sizing?

Sorry if this is to many questions for one topic, but I figured I would get them all out of the way.

   Thanks.

Thank you.

I'm currently waiting on Midway to deliver the Lee Modern Reloading Second Edition, and figured I would post while I was waiting.

Thanks again.

One good book is from George C. Nonte. It's been around for years. If you go to Amazon.com and do a search usually you get a dozen hits and they often sell for a dollar. Some of the pics in the book are a little dated but the info is still current.

Even when neck sizing cases for the same rifle, after a few fired  rounds they will need full length sizing. They will eventually expand enough that they will get tighter in the chamber. You need to lube necks inside and out even for neck sizing. I use Dillion's spray lube and spray a squirt on a case lube pad and roll each case on the pad. I use an RCBS nylon case neck brush with a little lube sprayed on the brush to apply lube to the inside of necks. When rolling the case on the soft pad it will apply lube to the body and neck. Not too much though on the neck and shoulder or you will get dents from too much lube. I'd recommend buying a Sierra manual if you plan to use their bullets or Hornady if shooting them. Lyman's 49th Manual is a good one too. Lot's of important information in the manuals. Some information on-line is good also, but you need a manual. Do a search on sizing belted magnum cases as the 7MM Rem Mag cases headspace on the belt but you don't want to push the shoulder back too much or you can experience case separation just in front of the belt. A case headspace gauge is highly recommended, such as the RCBS Precision Mic or Hornady's Headspace gauge set.
http://www.inlandshooters.net/index.php?contentid=99
http://www.realguns.com/archives/035.htm
 These articles tell about sizing to not push the shoulder back more than necessary. Hornady's set will work with about all cases using a caliper.

If using Imperial Sizing Die Wax, how do you recommend applying it to the inside of the case neck?

I do both and get Redding Full Length S Dies. That way I can precisely control my neck tension and my gun will swallow what I feed it.
And it makes NO SENSE WHATSOEVER to size your neck and then drag an expander ball back through it.

It does if you turn your necks, you want the high spots on the outside of the neck and not on the inside the neck, I turn some brass but even with most I size .001" smaller than the expander(floating carbide ball) and then let the expander set the neck tension, this also pushes any difference in neck thickness to the outside so it will show up on a run-out gauge and if not done it will just end up showing up after you seat the bullet, besides .001" of expanding isn't enough to stretch the neck back out any and the carbide ball doesn't require lube to do so, my run-out is under .001" even on none turned necks(good LC, Lapua, & Hornady brass) even using the expander ball so it's defiantly not hurting anything.

Found it. Thanks a bunch.