How to you get the staticy powder out of the thrower to change powders?

Armory » Reloading

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - How to you get the staticy powder out of the thrower to change powders?

Posted: 9/15/2009 8:33:26 AM EDT

I want to get the Titegroup out of my uniflow but it is always caked against the sides of the tube. How the hell do you get it out?

Posted: 9/15/2009 8:48:29 AM EDT

[#1]

I have seen several re-loaders wipe down the powder tube with a dryer sheet, inside and out prior to starting the reloading session. Even seen the sheet taped or rubber banded to the outside of the tube during the loading session. I have no experience with this though.

Posted: 9/15/2009 9:21:08 AM EDT

[#2]

I wipe down the inside with a dryer sheet.

Posted: 9/15/2009 9:42:09 AM EDT

[#3]

Remove the static as best as you can, then turn the measure up side and tap the sides. I also work the drum handle.

Posted: 9/15/2009 10:13:35 AM EDT

[#4]

Dryer sheet. In time the residue from the powders will leave a light coating that will not need the sheets any more.

Posted: 9/15/2009 2:38:51 PM EDT

[#5]

Or you can speed the process up and give a nce coating of graphite (the coating used most propellants). It needs to be rubbed in and then blown out. It helps good luck.

Posted: 9/15/2009 2:56:29 PM EDT

[#6]

Oh man, I was gonna post the exact same question pretty soon. Titegroup and most flake or tiny ball powders get stuck i there all the time. Varget and other large extruded powders come out clean and easy, but those tiny flakes are a pain! I have been just wiping out with a clean cloth when I'm done and then replacing the cap on the powder measure. Tapping the sides and clanging the metal thrower work fine for the larger extruded powders, but don't ever get all the flakes of Titegroup out.

Quoted:

Dryer sheet. In time the residue from the powders will leave a light coating that will not need the sheets any more.

are you talkin about wiping it out with a dryer sheet or just using a rubber band to hold one on the outside to "remove" the static cling???

Posted: 9/15/2009 3:15:47 PM EDT

[#7]

"are you talkin about wiping it out with a dryer sheet or just using a rubber band to hold one on the outside to "remove" the static cling???"

yes, do both. Works well for W231.

skink

Posted: 9/15/2009 4:00:32 PM EDT

[#8]

I have an old LP record, static eliminator, that I use on empty powder measures. For some reason it would give me the creeps to try it on one with powder in it. You simply point it at anything you want static electricity removed from and squeaze the trigger really slow both pulling it in and releasing it just as slow - controlling the trigger both ways. Most people probably have no idea what I'm talking about. It works.

I also rubber band dryer sheets to the powder hopper.

Posted: 9/15/2009 4:19:37 PM EDT

[#9]

Also when you store the PM, put a couple of dryer sheets in the powder hopper until next loading session.

Posted: 9/16/2009 6:36:20 AM EDT

[#10]

Best of luck brudda!

I threw in the towel... my solution to getting the staticy Titegroup out of my RCBS Uniflow?

I bought a second Uniflow.

Since I use Titegroup for all of my pistol loads, I simply have a dedicated Titegroup thrower... and then a separate thrower for my rifle powders, which I don't have as much of a static problem with.
Everything else I tried was of no use.

Posted: 9/16/2009 8:20:27 AM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:

Best of luck brudda!

I threw in the towel... my solution to getting the staticy Titegroup out of my RCBS Uniflow?

I bought a second Uniflow.

Since I use Titegroup for all of my pistol loads, I simply have a dedicated Titegroup thrower... and then a separate thrower for my rifle powders, which I don't have as much of a static problem with.

Everything else I tried was of no use.

I've got a second thrower, an old one I picked up from my old codger neighbor. I've never used it cause the cap is broken. I spose I could get a new cap and make it a dedicated Titegroup thrower. I like that idea... But I still throw a few other powders that are tiny ball, H335 or H380 me thinks??? can't remember off the top of mey head. And those still cause me a bit of a problem with getting them out of the hopper when I'm done.

Posted: 9/16/2009 9:21:58 PM EDT

[#12]

Titegroup will eat away at and pit some plastics if left there very long. I had this happen to the powder tube on my PW shotshell reloader. You might want to check the inside of your Uniflow tube for this problem.

Posted: 9/16/2009 9:51:57 PM EDT

[#13]

I put dryer sheets around my hopper. Seems to work.
I also polished the metal parts to help remove friction as well.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the Varget powder that I use on my reloads didn't stick when I poured it out into a container.

Posted: 9/17/2009 7:48:29 PM EDT

[#14]

Air compressor.

Posted: 9/18/2009 5:07:44 PM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
Air compressor.

This is what I do.

Posted: 9/18/2009 5:51:38 PM EDT

[#16]

I coat the powder measure stem and metering rotor with dry molly and bake it on were it's hard and wont rub off, this also makes it very smooth, keeps powder from sticking, and makes charges more uniform.

You can also use a clear dry lube to coat the inside the hopper like Hornady Cleaner & Dry Lube, but I find other dry lubes work a little better than the Hornady lube for preventing static.

Oh, and what doesn't come out I blow out with compressed air.