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Posted: 7/20/2008 8:40:52 AM EDT
[#1]
My dad has one. It works. I personally despise cannelures.
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Posted: 7/20/2008 9:12:47 AM EDT
[#2]
I have had one for about 3 decades now and have cannelured .22-.50cal bullets with it. Works fine if you want cannelures on bullets or casings.
Carey |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 10:35:20 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks guys.
I have about 1500 rounds of .223 brass & when I figure out what handload I like for the 75gr Hornady BTHP Match, I want to load up at least 1000 rounds for my stash & I want to put a cannelure on the bullets, so I can get a better crimp. And yes, I know that I'll have to use a light cannelure due to the thin jacket. 30Caliber, out of curiousity, why do you despise cannelures? |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 12:15:20 PM EDT
[#4]
I have a C-H cannelure tool. I got it in a trade and used it once to check it out.
Why do you want to ruin premium bullets with a cannelure? If you're dead set on a crimp, either get a taper crimp die or a LEE factory crimp die. Or buy bullets with a cannelure, say a hunting bullet or 77 gr MK's with the cannelure. |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 3:06:34 PM EDT
[#5]
1. Because the Hornadys are quite a bit cheaper.
2. I'm not too sure how well a crimp will hold without a cannelure on a bullet. 3. Sierra does the same thing. What hunting bullets are out there in the 75-77 grain range that have a cannelure? |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 4:16:49 PM EDT
[#6]
If you use a Lee FCD, factory crimp die, no cannelure is needed to crimp.
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Posted: 7/20/2008 6:16:08 PM EDT
[#7]
It digs into the bullet that hard?
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Posted: 7/20/2008 6:49:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Taper crimps squeeze the bullet without digging in if set correctly. Digging in damages the jacket, and so does adding a cannelure.
You're worrying about a non-factor, but I'm not going to try very hard to convince you to change your mind. If your loads have an adequate amount of neck tension, a crimp is not needed with .223 Rem, even for emergency ammunition. As far as I know, no one is making a heavy hunting bullet in .224 diameter. Speer makes a 70 grain bullet, but I don't think it has a cannelure, either. |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 8:38:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Ok, I guess I'll skip it then.
Thanks to everybody for the replys. |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 9:28:32 PM EDT
[#10]
If you want to make military clones then the cannelure will help the bullet destabalize after it hits flesh. I poad my clones with pulled M193, M855, Nosler 77 grain with cannelure and have exact matches in MV to standard loads.
But i do not cannelure my 73 grain Bergers. |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 9:41:15 PM EDT
[#11]
The cannelure helps the 55 grain fmj's fragment in the target for better terminal ballistics. I guess it might do the same thing with 75/77 grain projectiles. If you're not loading them for target shooting, who cares if it hurts accuracy a bit?
It's all about what you're looking for in a bullet. Some folks think it's ridiculous to try to make mil type rounds, and will argue with you all day about the subject. If that's what you want to do though, have at it. You are the only person who needs to be satisfied with the results of your loads. |
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Posted: 7/20/2008 9:58:05 PM EDT
[#12]
Hmm, I'm going to have to do some digging in the Ammo Oracle again when I have some more time.
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Posted: 7/22/2008 7:24:50 PM EDT
[#13]
They are good tools. They can cut a deep consistant cannelure on bullets, but that little knob rotating the cannelure tool is too small, the knurling too sharp, and the cannelure height adjustment setscrew needs to be polished. Easily fixed with sandpaper and a thin leather glove.
Like others have said, it all depends on what you want to use it for. It is a good tool for its intended purpose, i.e., cut cannelures. |
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