I have become increasingly interested in making my own overnight expedient shelters when camping.  I will need to cut some dead wood and brush to rough dimension - but I'm not looking to fell small trees.  I have been exclusively a folder guy - but a folder won't get me the blade mass/size and toughness that I need for this task.  I'd like a flixed blade that I can wear on my pack shoulder strap.  I'm not interested in a Rambo ego-builder monster knife - nor do I want the weight that comes with it.  Likewise - I don't want crap steel that will dull to a butter knife after 1-2 nights but I'm ready to do my part on a Sharpmaker after a 4 night trip.  I need some rust resistance and a solid grip for moderate chopping tasks.

Price is not a primary consideration.  I expect to use it on 6-8 camping trips per year.  Your recommendations are appreciated.

CWO

I have had great results with my Ka-Bar.It's really a tough knife and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse.

I take it with me everytime I go camping and it's one of the most used tools in my camping gear.

And it won't break the bank either.

BK7
Becker Crewman

I would think a BK&T BK9, BK7 or the BK10 for mid to light weight chopping and general purpose knife.

Myself I would want something a bit heftier like a Khukuri.

www.thekhukurihouse.com/Content/ProductDetail.php?ID=ec8ce6abb3e952a85b8551ba726a1227|595a09

www.thekhukurihouse.com/Content/ProductDetail.php?ID=57aeee35c98205091e18d1140e9f38cf|595a00

Karsten

This one, of course!

Quoted: This one, of course!

Thats quite a hunk of steel.  I'm not familliar with O1 steel (rust, edge retention etc).

Quoted: Quoted: This one, of course! Thats quite a hunk of steel.  I'm not familliar with O1 steel (rust, edge retention etc).

Superb edge retention; very good toughness and crappy rust resistance.  However, I am of the opinion that all knives are rust resistant when cared for properly.  O1 is a carbon tool steel.  I own very few stainless knives because I prefer the carbon steels.  I do have a few from D2, which, as the saying goes, "takes a terrible edge and holds it forever!"  D2 is a semi-stainless

It is mostly a matter of priorities.  What is the most important to you?  There is no perfect steel for all situations.  You made a good post and gave us a lot of information, but not necessarily in priority order.  That is not a criticism, just a comment that you will need to decide which feature is most important: rust resistance, toughness or edge retention.  It is always a trade-off.

The ultimate in toughness with good edge retention is L6.  After that, it goes in rough order: CPM3V, 5160, O1, A2 . . . Note that none of those listed are stainless. . .S30V is very close to the latter steels and is stainless.  If stainless is important along with some decent toughness, then a custom in S30V is the ticket.  CPM154 is also very good for smaller knives.

CWO, I was mostly kidding with my unabashed marketing attempt. . .

Quoted: This one, of course!

Fox,

That is a great looking knife. Kinda looks like a well defined, super clean version of what my BT&K BK9 ended up looking like after some grinding.



Note, not comparing a Custom made by Fox Moulder to my rookie grinding on a  factory made BK9.

CWO,

High Carbon steels are some or the most forgiving for knives, tomahawks, axes, Knukuri's and what not. These can be sharpened up with a simple file and W/D Sand paper if need be or a stone if you have them. As for rust a little machine, mineral or other light oil goes a long ways. Simply clean the blade after use, wipe it dry and wipe it down with oil went you get home.

If you mess the blade or it gets some rust spots up get out the 320-600 W/D sand paper, mineral oil and clean the blade up...Heck you might like it better after some hard use and sanding the blade a little.

Karsten

I appreciate the input everyone has contributed in this thread.  The comment on priorities is a fair one.  One of my challenges is that I'm kind of a steel whore on folders... and it takes some mental adjustment to look at a large utility blade in a different way.  Dull blades make me nuts and I'm not used to utility chopping of shelter wood and brush... so I'm trying to strike a balance between edge retention, ability to take an edge and rust resistance.  At the price points these are at I'm not all that concerned at the end of the day.

You comments on practical care of the new blade are well taken.  

Thanks,

CWO

ASEK from gerber

Quoted: I have had great results with my Ka-Bar.It's really a tough knife and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse. I take it with me everytime I go camping and it's one of the most used tools in my camping gear. And it won't break the bank either.

+1 for the old school Ka-Bar or GI issue knife. Easy to sharpen and if it breaks or you lose it, it's not the end of the world.

Quoted: Quoted: This one, of course! Fox, That is a great looking knife. Kinda looks like a well defined, super clean version of what my BT&K BK9 ended up looking like after some grinding. img178.imageshack.us/img178/3067/bk9aai4.jpg Note, not comparing a Custom made by Fox Moulder to my rookie grinding on a  factory made BK9. CWO, High Carbon steels are some or the most forgiving for knives, tomahawks, axes, Knukuri's and what not. These can be sharpened up with a simple file and W/D Sand paper if need be or a stone if you have them. As for rust a little machine, mineral or other light oil goes a long ways. Simply clean the blade after use, wipe it dry and wipe it down with oil went you get home. If you mess the blade or it gets some rust spots up get out the 320-600 W/D sand paper, mineral oil and clean the blade up...Heck you might like it better after some hard use and sanding the blade a little. Karsten

Greetings Karsten,
Looks great!!!
I think Ethan Becker would be happy to see your interest in his design.
Q's
Did you shape the scales yourself?
Did you weigh it before and after the regrind?
Is the new gring convex?
IF I find a donor are you doing this type of work for others?

TIA,
Pete

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: This one, of course! Fox, That is a great looking knife. Kinda looks like a well defined, super clean version of what my BT&K BK9 ended up looking like after some grinding. img178.imageshack.us/img178/3067/bk9aai4.jpg Note, not comparing a Custom made by Fox Moulder to my rookie grinding on a  factory made BK9. CWO, High Carbon steels are some or the most forgiving for knives, tomahawks, axes, Knukuri's and what not. These can be sharpened up with a simple file and W/D Sand paper if need be or a stone if you have them. As for rust a little machine, mineral or other light oil goes a long ways. Simply clean the blade after use, wipe it dry and wipe it down with oil went you get home. If you mess the blade or it gets some rust spots up get out the 320-600 W/D sand paper, mineral oil and clean the blade up...Heck you might like it better after some hard use and sanding the blade a little. Karsten Greetings Karsten, Looks great!!! I think Ethan Becker would be happy to see your interest in his design. Q's Did you shape the scales yourself? Did you weigh it before and after the regrind? Is the new gring convex? IF I find a donor are you doing this type of work for others? TIA, Pete

Rudison,

PM sent so as not to get off topic.

Karsten

You need a saw.  Even a saw blade on a folder.

For shelter building I would go with THIS or something like it

Quoted: You need a saw.  Even a saw blade on a folder.

This one never leaves my pocket:

Victorinox One Hand Trekker.
Saw is amazingly sharp.

Serrated blade makes short work of biscuits and veggies.
Pete