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Quoted: which high carbon steels are known for their sheer toughness overall and which for the best edge retention? I know 1095 is your basic steel and D2 is supposed to be extremely hard, damascus steel IIRC is overlapped layers of steel but other than that Im not all that knowledgable about steels. Reason I am asking is I want to buy a knife that can be used equally well as a combat knife (god forbid I should ever be in a situation like that) hunting knife and utility knife. Bascially I reckon I need the best marriage between hardness and edge retention. what would you recommend?
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S30V is a newer stainless steel that many pocket knives and fixed blades use. It has the toughness of A2 carbon steel(which is pretty tough, tougher then 1095) and even better edge retention. That would be a good one to look at if you want a stainless blade which is good if you will get the knife wet, bloody and dirty for a while. BG42 is another top steel and good old 440C is great! I have a Randall #14 made in 440C that holds a great edge and takes a beating with no problem.
If you only want Carbon there are many that will do well being tough and hold a great edge. 1095 has always been a good steel and has been proven decade after decade. A2, 01, 0170-6 and 5160 are very good steels. 5160 is very flexable and holds a great edge and arguabley could be one of the toughest steels to be had. All carbon steels rust faster then stainless so you have to care for them more often.
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Skag is right on here. If I were to rate steels based strictly on toughness, read that as the ability to withstand impact, the list would probably fall roughly in this order:
L6, 5160, CPM3V, A2, S30V, O1, D2 and a few others. For pure edge retention then the plain carbon steels really shine, in particular 1095 and 1084.
Once again we are back to the toughness/edge retention trade off. There is no single knife that is designed to do all tasks well. Blade steel, geometry, thickness and overall design all play major roles for a given knife's task. Just like you would not use vice grips to remove the head bolts on your car's engine, you would not want to use a fighter to butcher a few deer or cows. Use the correct tool for the job, as the saying goes. While I would not recommend 1095 for a survival knife, it has certainly worked well for the Ka-Bar style of blades for the last 65 years and many Marines and soldiers still swear by it. Unless one is spending time pushing a knife to the limit for purposes not intended for a blade, then most of the time the exercise is moot.
If you insist on a single knife for multiple tasks, then 5160, A2 and O1 are hard to beat for a combination of toughness and edge retention. They are inexpensive and easy to heat treat, although A2 is an air tempered steel that requires an accurate furnace and controls. For more information, check out
Crucible's excellent site.