sig_230 asked me, as a complement to the excellent forging series by Terry Primos, if I would do a tutorial using the stock removal method for making a knife. Since I do not want to be repetitive or waste bandwidth, I am going to take the liberty of referring to Terry's posts from time to time. He has already covered a number of basic issues which are common to both disciplines and discussed the differences between forging and stock removal on his web site. I will also refer to the FAQ post by Big_Bear, in which he has linked to the great series by Joe Talmadge over at Blade Forums. Finally, for those that wish to really look at the nitty-gritty details of knife making I suggest reading the information created by the late Bob Engnath and kept up as a tribute to him over at:
Bob's Bookcase. Part one of the tutorial will cover layout and profiling. Later posts will discuss blade grinding, heat treating, and handle installation and finishing. The steps described here can generally be used for either carbon or stainless steels, except for the thermal treatments. I rarely use stainless steel. I hope you will find the series interesting and entertaining.
I must post a disclaimer about my photography - it is pretty bad. I will do my best to take some decent photos of the process, but please bear with me when my photos are not up to par.
I want to share a few words about knife making philosophy and a little personal background. Nothing I say here should ever be taken as a criticism or flame of other knife makers or their methods. My opinions are based upon my own experiences and observations over many years. I have met and shared information with a lot of makers, many of them quite famous. Each maker is guided by a number of factors such as: educational background, mechanical aptitude, how the craft was learned, the mentor, the tools at hand, financial issues, personal experience, customer demand and the functional forms of the knives he/she desires to make. Each maker does things a little differently. There is rarely a right or wrong involved, just a matter of personal preference or experience as to what works for that maker in their shop, given their tools and background. Remember also that as a general rule economic imperatives drive markets and the custom knife niche is no different.
I agree with Terry in that the forged blade has potential for increased strength due to the way the grain of the steel can be directed under the hammer. I think that Ed Fowler and Ed Caffrey have clearly shown that with proper forging and thermal treatment, 52100 and 5160, respectively, make superior high-performance knives with increased edge retention and toughness. However, the increasing levels of performance come with a price tag for the additional time and labor involved. The merits of forged versus stock-removal blades has been argued for years. Each has its place. Does increased edge retention mean that the knife is better? Not necessarily. Does the fact that the stock removal maker uses stainless steel rather than carbon steel make that product inferior? Absolutely not. Does the increased strength from a forged blade translate into superiority in the real world? Again, not necessarily. In the real world the high performance knife may need to be sharpened less and may have a longer life. The forged knife may be a little harder to break when subject to abuse. The stainless knife may not retain its edge as long, but will be superior in many environments. Again, it depends on the intended function of the blade. If I am making a blade used for a survival situation I will probably forge it from 5160 and use the triple quench method to give the customer every bit of performance available from the steel when it may be needed most. I have been using knives for more than 40 years and have never seen a knife break anywhere, except at its thinnest point, the tip area, when used for it main purpose - cutting! I have seen knives break when used as pry bars, hammers, wedges and hatchets on inappropriate materials. It is the customer who will pay for the extra attention, time and effort put forth by the maker to increase the performance level of the blade and who will ultimately decide which type of blade is sufficient for their needs. To use the automobile analogy, it is like buying a Toyota Camry or a Mercedes SL500. Both are high quality and will get you to where you want to go, but one will definitely give you a better ride and offer better resale value. From the maker's economic point of view, there are a lot more people buying Toyotas than there are Mercedes. Although we may have a preference for the Mercedes, most of us would be happy to own a new Camry. I will confess that I made a few Yugos in my time. As Terry notes, the maker's names go on these knives and we want them to be synonymous with quality and reliability. Unfortunately, in the early years when I had not learned that vital lesson I rushed to give away and sell some blades that I would not allow out of the shop today.
Mostly, I am self taught. I started making knives about 8 years ago from blanks that were ground by the late Bob Engnath and heat treated by Paul Bos. When I started the Internet was still fairly young and without the excellent forums and web sites of today. There were no makers that I knew of in my part of the country who could show me grinding or finishing techniques. Bob Engnath was always one to share knowledge with new makers and we corresponded regularly until his untimely passing. His catalogue, found at the Internet link above, is still a valuable source of information. I never got to watch Bob work, but had to translate his writings and correspondence into my shop, using my tools and abilities. In essence, he was my mentor and his recommendations influenced much of my work. My point here is that for those of you who may consider knife making at some point in your lives, take the time to study the craft with an established maker, in his/her presence as it will help you greatly and dramatically shorten some of the learning curve. I made a lot of stupid and costly mistakes because of the trial and error method of learning and probably still do some things the hard way.
I now use both methods of blade creation, forging and stock removal. The split is probably about 50 - 50 between the two on an annual basis. I am a part-time maker and usually only make 20 - 25 knives per year and have been doing so for about 5 years. I have a full-time job that pays the bills and often limits the time I can spend in my shop. My main goal is to make functional, high quality knives at a decent price, with a cost that the average working man can afford if he stretches his budget just a little. I make hidden-tang, through-tang and full-tang blades. See Engnath for a good description of each. I like to forge hidden and through-tang models and use stock removal for the full-tang blades. Why? Because I usually make my full-tang blades from precision-ground, O1 tool steel. The steel is already very flat and easy to use for full-tang construction. It is fully annealed (soft) and is very easy to grind and work. O1 is forgiving during heat treatment, takes and holds a wonderful edge and is very tough. For this tutorial we will be making a full-tang hunter/utility from 3/16" x 1.5" x 18" precision ground O1. This is where we are going:
By the way, the sheath is by Gerald Barrowcliff out of Grants Pass, OR. The handle is butterscotch micarta attached with Loveless style bolts. The thong-hole liner and rear pin are stainless steel. We will be discussing handles in much more detail later.
Let us get started.