Now, I've read around and found a dozen different answers..

Can I use it on my 10/22? It will not be used for many rounds at all, I'm talkin just for zeroing and then a few shots here and there for rabbits. By no means a dedicated 22 can or a range toy on it. It's primary role will be on an sbr, but if I have to ability to use it hunting that'd be awesome.

Of course you can. But it's like using a sledgehammer to hang a picture.

I definitely understand that, long term I'll absolutely get a dedicated 22 suppressor but I just wanted to make sure that for the short term I'd be ok.

Your better off getting a rimfire can, once you hear how quiet it is you will want to shoot your 10/22 suppressed all the time. 22 lr is dirty and you need the ability to break the can down for cleaning. Also rimfire cans weigh a lot less than even the Saker k, they make for a much better setup than a centerfire rifle can.

What answers have you gotten?
It will be fine for occasional hunting. By no means ideal, but functional

Anyone who says different is an idiot. So says I and the scotch.

Anything over a hundred ish rounds will badly dirty it up, reducing the performance of the can. Depending on your 22's barrel length.

Ignore that and go to 500+ rounds, and you'll get increased erosion whenever you switch back to a rifle. All the carbon and led crap blows around in there and causes scarring and cratering.

My advice would be to try it once or twice to get a feel for what suppressed 22 is like, and then wait until you get a dedicated can.

Thanks all for the input.

Doable, yes. Advisable, no.  Here and there it would probably be alright, but I wouldn't do it.


You won't likely regret getting a dedicated 22 can.  IMO It's well worth just getting one from the start.

Good advice from Joshua. I would add, if you are going to use it with 22LR at least use copper plated ammo like CCI Mini Mags. In my experience they seem to put less lead in the can but they definitely don't eliminate it. Powder residue and wax build up are the same.


Ponder This But I'm NOT Endorsing It:
Shoot 22LR through it, then when it looks like there is lead build up on the blast baffle or bore remove the end cap and mount and soak the entire can in "the dip". I've seen it discussed but don't know that anyone has done it. The Saker materials (Stellite, Stainless Steel) are impervious to the dip so it should be no different than soaking a stainless rimfire can. When I've soaked my Sparrows I don't really have to do anything other than rinse them off and reassemble and I put well over a thousand rounds through them prior to cleaning. You may need to soak the Saker twice to get all of the lead dissolved. I can't warranty your can and SilencerCo probably won't recommend that but it can't hurt to ask them. Has anyone here personally tried this with a centerfire can? I'm trying to think of a way the can would be damaged and am not coming up with anything.

How did you arrive to this conclusion, personal experience?  I have several commercial cans along with a 1.5" stainless and titanium form 1 can.  I use the form 1 can for full auto 22LR and semi auto 223 on an AR platform.  I have seen no more noticible wear than any of my commercial cans which fire 223/6.5 creedmoor.  Yes, the can is a bit dirtier from the 22LR but I've shot 500 rounds in one range session and there has been no degression of sound performance in either 223 or 22LR.

Didn't people used to advise using a handful of 556 to blast out some of the crud after a rimfire range session?

They sure did and probably still will. I almost mentioned that line of thought in my post above but I think the dip method would work better than the shoot it out method. I haven't tried either method as I have more than a handful of rimfire cans but I'd like to know the results of trying each!

I have one of these in jail.

With removable end caps and dip resistant materials I don't see a problem.

I'm not planning on shooting 22 thru mine as I already have more 22 cans than hosts.