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Posted: 3/11/2015 10:23:10 AM EDT
So, I'm one of the guys who's supressor to mount lock up had no noticeable wobble. Woo Hoo.mafter my first range trip with the can and about 90rounds of subsonic 300blk down the pipe i took the suppressor off the mount and cleaned a little crud from the threads and teeth of the mount, put the can back on and set it next to my bed for my HD gun. Whell the last two ramge trips I've tried getting the can off to show people the before and after effect of supressors. No dice. I've tried it hot with welding gloves, cold, with someone helping and giving it a decent wack with a hammer handle to see if it would budge. Nothing. I can depress the release ring on the 7.62sd all the way, or what looks and feels all the way, nothing it won't budge. On the plus side the rocket blackout flashider hasn't moved either. I emailed aac two days ago with no love. Any suggestions?
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Posted: 3/11/2015 11:21:24 AM EDT
[#1]
Have you hit it with a mallet? My Saker gets stuck every now and then and one good blow from anything really and it comes off.
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Posted: 3/11/2015 11:26:38 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you hit it with a mallet? My Saker gets stuck every now and then and one good blow from anything really and it comes off. No, just a hammer handle. I'll go give it a smack right now. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 11:36:48 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, just a hammer handle. I'll go give it a smack right now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Have you hit it with a mallet? My Saker gets stuck every now and then and one good blow from anything really and it comes off. No, just a hammer handle. I'll go give it a smack right now. No joy. It's on there. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 11:36:49 AM EDT
[#4]
Go shoot a mag through it to get it real hot. put on some gloves or something/silicone pot holder etc so you can grab the thing quickly. Push the latch to release it and twist hard. Should come off.
Don't squeeze for more than a second or two as not to burn yourself though. You could also probably just heat it up close to the latch, but shooting works also. if that doesn't work you could always spray some penetrating spray in/around where it mounts up and let it soak for a while. Try again and repeat. It should come off. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 11:52:43 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Go shoot a mag through it to get it real hot. put on some gloves or something/silicone pot holder etc so you can grab the thing quickly. Push the latch to release it and twist hard. Should come off. Don't squeeze for more than a second or two as not to burn yourself though. You could also probably just heat it up close to the latch, but shooting works also. if that doesn't work you could always spray some penetrating spray in/around where it mounts up and let it soak for a while. Try again and repeat. It should come off. I'll hit it with some PB blaster and let it sit a while. I tired it after three mags day before yesterday with a pair of welding gloves, nothing. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 12:02:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Make extra sure the latch is depressed all the way. You may have to smack it a bit if junk is under it. Go and buy a strap wrench from northern/harbor freight. Get the one that allows you to cinch the strap down. See if the strap wrench will give you the torque needed.
Otherwise, i got nothing. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 12:17:40 PM EDT
[#7]
One more thing, if the PB blaster doesn't work, try pressing the latch all the way down, and smack the can closest to the latch with a rubber mallet a few times. Not too hard, just enought to maybe rock it loose.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 1:59:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Got it off with some vice grips. I put another scratch on the finish but I don't care. What I do care about is now when the can is ratcheted all the way down I can rock the can back off the tooth. It feels like the teeth are only meshing halfway on the very last notch. Is that the wobble people talk about? Cus now I have it. Aac got back to me and also recommended some penetrating oil. I emailed me back just now letting them know the can and mount will be heading back to them for warranty work. Lame.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 3:32:11 PM EDT
[#9]
I wouldn't worry about the scratches, they refinish it for free every time you send it in. It will come back looking brand new.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 3:36:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Its likely rotational play and not actually rocking up and down.
I have one mount that doesn't lock all the way up either, it seems like it wobbles up and down but it is just rotational play. Never had problem with accuracy or strikes with that mount. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 3:46:39 PM EDT
[#11]
This is why I like my 18 tooth 762SD. This isn't a problem. Ever!
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Posted: 3/17/2015 3:59:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its likely rotational play and not actually rocking up and down. I have one mount that doesn't lock all the way up either, it seems like it wobbles up and down but it is just rotational play. Never had problem with accuracy or strikes with that mount. Rotational play is normal. when it starts backing off teeth is when you need to worry. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 4:00:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rotational play is normal. when it starts backing off teeth is when you need to worry. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Its likely rotational play and not actually rocking up and down. I have one mount that doesn't lock all the way up either, it seems like it wobbles up and down but it is just rotational play. Never had problem with accuracy or strikes with that mount. Rotational play is normal. when it starts backing off teeth is when you need to worry. I cant read, Sounds like you need a new latch. They'll hook you up no problem. They refinished mine as well. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 4:27:30 PM EDT
[#14]
How hard did you crank it down in the first place?
Mine locks up well on a particular "tooth", but has that little bit of wobble everyone talks about. If I crank it further, I can just barely get it to latch on the next tooth, but the latch doesn't quite engage fully (doesn't settle all the way down into the valley of the next tooth). No more wobble when I do that, but I wouldn't dare shoot it like that for fear of not being about to get it back off. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 9:20:31 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is why I like my 18 tooth 762SD. This isn't a problem. Ever! Lol. I can't tell if you are serious or not. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 9:22:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you hit it with a mallet? My Saker gets stuck every now and then and one good blow from anything really and it comes off. Taking the spanner wrench to the trifecta mount really helps get it off for me. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 EDT
[#17]
I got this back From AAC when I told them about it rocking back off the last tooth on the mount.
"We can take a look at it, however this seems normal. All my 51T silencers go on and then I rock them back to where it naturally sits in the valley of the teeth." Call me crazy but I thought a supressor should lock up tight to the mount to avoid a big poi shift and accuracy problems when/if the can moves during firing. So far there responses have been prompt, but it's definitely not giving me a good feeling. Am I wrong in my thinking? |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 1:12:53 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got this back From AAC when I told them about it rocking back off the last tooth on the mount. "We can take a look at it, however this seems normal. All my 51T silencers go on and then I rock them back to where it naturally sits in the valley of the teeth." Call me crazy but I thought a supressor should lock up tight to the mount to avoid a big poi shift and accuracy problems when/if the can moves during firing. So far there responses have been prompt, but it's definitely not giving me a good feeling. Am I wrong in my thinking? The nature of the ratchet and pawl design of the 51t precludes it from having 100% effective and repeatable lockup across all mounts and all cans. It's a natural side effect of the design, anytime you have two gears, or two sets of teeth meshing with each other you will have play, that rotational play is called backlash and its kinda to be expected. What is happening with mounts that lock up "tight" is that the silencer achieves clamping force on the beveled surface of the mount when the pawl is in the "valley" between teeth. A "looser" one is one that achieves clamping force when it can't quite get over that last tooth. What you're feeling is the small amount of play between the teeth of the silencer and that of the mount. It doesn't take much of a manufacturing variance effect lockup majorly. Completely normal, but some people find it undesirable. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 7:23:13 AM EDT
[#19]
this can sucks, I hear so many problems with this mount system
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Posted: 3/18/2015 7:23:33 AM EDT
[#20]
OP what you're describing with the "wobble" seems completely normal. I have a feeling if you send your can and mount in they will end up shipping it back and telling you there is nothing wrong.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 11:23:17 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
this can sucks, I hear so many problems with this mount system I'm starting to feel the same way. Im thinking I may just take a hit and sell it. Then use the cash for a form1 can and have money left over for reloading components. If this is normal, I don't like it. And it's just odd that it locked up tight before and now this is going on. Would "the fix" help in this situation? |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 11:28:21 AM EDT
[#22]
I have a SDN-6. And have three different rifles I use it on. Only one of the have the "wobble". But I can really tighten it down and get it to the next tooth but it's a bitch to remove. And it has the same exact accuracy as it does when it "wobbles". If it bothers you this bad do this
Or some guys have even had luck with using a silicone o-ring to tighten things up. You have an excellent can and no way in hell I would go through the hassle of selling it and taking a huge hit on it. There is nothing wrong with it. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 11:34:30 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a SDN-6. And have three different rifles I use it on. Only one of the have the "wobble". But I can really tighten it down and get it to the next tooth but it's a bitch to remove. And it has the same exact accuracy as it does when it "wobbles". If it bothers you this bad do this Or some guys have even had luck with using a silicone o-ring to tighten things up. You have an excellent can and no way in hell I would go through the hassle of selling it and taking a huge hit on it. There is nothing wrong with it. Thanks for the link. I have a couple days off in a row and I'll give the mount the old polish treatment and see how it goes. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 12:56:21 PM EDT
[#24]
Whell after polishing the mating surface on the mount I successfully made the lock up looser. Now I know what people say when it wobbles. Anyway I think I'll chuck it up for sale later. I should have gotten a direct thread can.
Edit. Found a mount on the EE for cheap. Just gunna run it till it explodes 
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Posted: 3/18/2015 3:59:50 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whell after polishing the mating surface on the mount I successfully made the lock up looser. Now I know what people say when it wobbles. Anyway I think I'll chuck it up for sale later. I should have gotten a direct thread can.
Edit. Found a mount on the EE for cheap. Just gunna run it till it explodes 
It's going to explode. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 4:52:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whell after polishing the mating surface on the mount I successfully made the lock up looser. Now I know what people say when it wobbles. Anyway I think I'll chuck it up for sale later. I should have gotten a direct thread can.
Edit. Found a mount on the EE for cheap. Just gunna run it till it explodes i was always hesitant to do this, but I've done this to all of my mounts now. It really takes no time at all to do and seems to have tightened up my groups on the mounts that had a lot of left-right, up and down play. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:11:05 PM EDT
[#27]
Don't sell your can! I have suppressors from almost every major manufacturer and the only ones that have absolutely zero play are direct thread and those have disadvantages too.
Small amounts of rotational play have no detrimental effect on accuracy and will not cause can failures. Worst case just buy a couple of mounts and find the one that times the best with your can. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:44:25 PM EDT
[#28]
MAG DUMP
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Posted: 3/18/2015 9:14:23 PM EDT
[#29]
Here's what you have to understand.
Suppressors add weight to the end of the barrel. POI shift is unavoidable. When you add weight to the end of a barrel you are changing the harmonics of the barrel so therefore POI will shift regardless. As to how much it will shift, well I can't say but it's dependent on many factors. A repeatable POI shift after mounting a suppressor is normal if everything locks up like it should. Even if there is a normal amount of movement. If your suppressor has a lot of back and forward/side to side play, it is very possible it could cause the zero to shift to a different location each time. AAC cans wobble. It's just something you have to deal with, most of the time, no one has any issues with it, but the cases that wobbling is actually causing issues, AAC will take care of you. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:50:48 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's going to explode. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whell after polishing the mating surface on the mount I successfully made the lock up looser. Now I know what people say when it wobbles. Anyway I think I'll chuck it up for sale later. I should have gotten a direct thread can.
Edit. Found a mount on the EE for cheap. Just gunna run it till it explodes
It's going to explode. It may, after I run it on my 7.5inch 5.56 upper.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 5:45:56 AM EDT
[#31]
Got the new mount on this morning. Wobbles just as bad as the one I tried to polish. Gunna go do some mag dumps and see what happens.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 6:33:33 AM EDT
[#32]
Plot twist. Put the suppressor on the new to me mount, wobble wobble Fuck! Went to pull it off Striiiiiip. Teeth inside the can stripped. FUUUUUUUUUUUUU. Teeth on the can won't engage on either mount now. I set it down, walked out FO the shop and am posting this befor I smash the God damned thing. I had read that some ratchet systems hadn't been heat treated correctly on some of the earlier cans. Maybe I got a bad one. Gunna email AAC about sending it back.
I'm trying really had not to take this thing with me shooting today and putting a few rounds through it. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:08:40 AM EDT
[#33]
heat treating wont stop you from stripping out the teeth if you turn it without pushing the latch in. the heat treating is for wear resistance when putting it on.
ive always pushed the latch in when putting the can on too. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:46:27 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
heat treating wont stop you from stripping out the teeth if you turn it without pushing the latch in. the heat treating is for wear resistance when putting it on. ive always pushed the latch in when putting the can on too. I do this to. I want to limit any metal to metal contact between the latch and teeth. The latch gets pressed in going on and off on my 51t cans. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:57:31 AM EDT
[#35]
So this could be 100% my fault, but I'm done with this supressor. Not mad, just disappointed. After taking a closer look at the mounts I could have polished the teeth along with the mount surface causing the thee th to slip. But on one of the mounts there is a broken tooth, again probably my fault for torquing the suppressor off when it was stuck, even with the latch pressed down. I'm going to send this back to aac to get the latch fixed then sell it. Im going direct thread only from now on. Again, not a bash against AAC at all, my fault.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 10:49:44 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So this could be 100% my fault, but I'm done with this supressor. Not mad, just disappointed. After taking a closer look at the mounts I could have polished the teeth along with the mount surface causing the thee th to slip. But on one of the mounts there is a broken tooth, again probably my fault for torquing the suppressor off when it was stuck, even with the latch pressed down. I'm going to send this back to aac to get the latch fixed then sell it. Im going direct thread only from now on. Again, not a bash against AAC at all, my fault. I wouldn't give up on QD just because the AAC mount didn't work out for you. Direct thread is a pain in the ass for anything other than a bolt action imo. You could get a Saker or Omega and if you don't end up liking their QD system you can get direct thread modules for them. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 2:52:11 AM EDT
[#37]
lol..you message me telling me your selling a 762sd as i was interested in one and i read this..lol...hope it works out for ya..
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Posted: 3/23/2015 3:07:53 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: lol..you message me telling me your selling a 762sd as i was interested in one and i read this..lol...hope it works out for ya.. I'm sure it would be good as new after it went back to AAC if you still want an AAC can. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 3:21:46 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
lol..you message me telling me your selling a 762sd as i was interested in one and i read this..lol...hope it works out for ya.. Buyer beware.
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:15:14 AM EDT
[#40]
UPDATE.
Got my can back from AAC, took about two weeks. They replaced the latch, pin, spring, and also refinished the supressor. It looks great but I still have some play/wobble where it won't lock up rock solid. I figured F it and took it out a couple days ago for some shooting. I dump a mag of my 300blk reloads through it no problem. Then I put up a fresh target and fired 5 rounds at 15 yards standing unsupported. And this happened. 
I love the can, but just hate the wobble. I think I can live with it.
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:10:43 AM EDT
[#41]
Here is how you get rid of the wobble. You can also do this by hand with some scotch-brite, just takes a bit longer.
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