Bunghole/MurderSHO45 - IMHO you have some very fine revolvers. I had over 40K rounds through my GP100 when I retired it, and my SP101 was my carry gun for years. When you look in reloading manuals and see two different sets of data; one for Ruger's and Thompson Contenders and one for everybody else, it's for a reason. Ruger Revolvers are built like a bank vault.
Disassembly of the SP/GP series isn't that complicated.
First remove the grip panels being careful to retain the take down pin that should be stored under the fascia. Remove the grip screw, take off the fascia panels, punch out the aluminum grip cylinder and pull the grips down off the frame.
Cock the hammer, insert the take down pin into the bottom of the hammer spring strut, and slowly release the hammer to relieve tension on the spring.
Remove the frame pin holding the hammer assembly and remove the hammer assembly and the mainspring assembly from the weapon.
The trigger assembly is held in place by a spring detent that locks into the grip frame. Push in the detent(it's usually pretty stiff), and swing the trigger assembly down and away from the weapon.
With the trigger assembly removed, you can release the crane and work it out of the frame toward the end of the barrel.
This completes standard disassembly. This is the procedure as I remember it, but I haven't done this in 4-5 years, so somebody correct me if I'm a little rusty and get something wrong.
The ejection rod should have a fair amount of play. It is part of the design of the weapon that it serves as only an ejection rod; it has no interface with the rotation or lock-up of the cylinder. That way, even if you bent the rod, as long as you could get the cylinder closed, it would still lock-up and rotate.
Did I mention that Ruger makes the best Revolvers on the market?