I just picked one up in .30-06 for $200

Any ideas on what to top it with (something less than $150)?  I think it uses Remington bases doesn't it?  I also want a replacment walnut stock since the synthetic one is cheezzzzzzyyy!

One more last item.  I would like to get the gun coated with something similar to the "birdsong" finish.  

Any opinions???????

The Howa is not a bad gun at all .$200 is a steal it is a jap copy , Sako action , nice shooter. Step up to around 2 bills and put a Bushnell Elite 3200 on it . You'll have a nice quality whitetail package for $400

Howa’s have a pretty good reputation and $200 sounds like an extremely good price.  My local Wal-Mart sells them for, I think, about $300.

However, I’m not sure they’re worth putting a lot of money into – it’s your rifle, though.

You can get a wood stock for it from:  www.boydboys.com.

I believe the Howa long action and the Remington long action 700 rings are the same.

At one time, I believe Weatherby sold Howa’s under their Vanguard trademark.

Howas are made in Japan in an old weatherby factory on weatherby machines, they are comparable to the Vanguard.

Quoted: I just picked one up in .30-06 for $200 Any ideas on what to top it with (something less than $150)?  I think it uses Remington bases doesn't it?  I also want a replacment walnut stock since the synthetic one is cheezzzzzzyyy! One more last item.  I would like to get the gun coated with something similar to the "birdsong" finish.   Any opinions???????

Hey, JarHead94:

Good choice.
The Remington 700 bases fit the Howa 1500.
A good used scope might be in order, or you may look into a 'new' Redfield or a NIKON 'Buckmaster'.
Believe it or not, Rustoleum High Temp BBQ Black is a pretty tough finish on a firearm.
I used it on my L1A1 and let it dry for about 4 days...it's still on, no scratches.  
Boyd's makes some nice wood stocks for the Howa, including a thumbhole variant.
Good luck.

Busmaster007,
 Rustoleum High Temp BBQ Black you say? I'd be willing to give it a try as long as I could get it off if I needed to. I've been looking to rustproof a Gp-100 for trail use and the rustoleum sounds like just the thing.
Other than the chambers, sights and bbl, what should I tape off?
I'm gonna screw this thing up royally...

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

BusMaster.......That sounds like a good idea!  Really cheap, too.  I assume it could be removed with paint thinner, right?  I really hesitate to dump serious cash in this rifle.  I really picked it up to trade off or sell.  Its just that I can really justify having a good, hi-powered bolt gun!  I found the "sweet spot" on the adjustable trigger, and man, I dry fire it about 5 times a day and really love it.  

Please email me Bus, and let me know the details of applying the rustoleum!

I have looked into the Boyd Boys walnut stock.  It is the same stock that they put on them at the factory.  It looks good on a friend of mines.  I wish it were a little more heavy, though. Its not a bad deal for $100 I think.

Thanks again

Quoted: Believe it or not, Rustoleum High Temp BBQ Black is a pretty tough finish on a firearm. I used it on my L1A1 and let it dry for about 4 days...it's still on, no scratches.   Boyd's makes some nice wood stocks for the Howa, including a thumbhole variant. Good luck.

It's not scratch proof on the bolt! I completely coated a shiny Ruger M77MkII in Rusty grill paint. It's fairly durable for a non-bake on finish. Firing will wear it away at the muzzle, as will continued cycling of the bolt.

re the 'scratchproofness' of Rustoleum BBQ paint:

I didn't paint anything that MOVED!

If one were to paint a bolt or a cylinder, I imagine they would incur scratches...

Removal of the paint was never even considered.

I put on a 'few' coats of the paint, thin ones at that, and let it dry for DAYS.  Full 24 hour days.  At least 4.
It's kind of tacky, touch wise as well as technique wise, and I just let it dry until it was done.
CURING the paint came when I fired the rifle, I think.
I heated it up pretty good.  It was smokin'.
Ever do a set of headers or exhaust manifolds on a car.  Kinda like that.  When the heat came on, the paint cured.  It's stayed that way.

I cleaned off the metal and cheap paint Century had applied to the L1A1, and then used rubbing alcohol, the stronger solution, and a green 3M pad.  I wiped down everything with a clean cloth and hung the gun up in the garage on metal coat hangers and just started spraying thin coats.
I checked the 'dries to the touch' time and I left a little fingerprint.  A few more coats and it was smooth, so I left it sit for a LONG time.
It was dry when I reassembled everything.
Then, when I fired it, whatever residual cleaning fluids, oils, & overspray, just kind of smoked a bit.
It's still in good shape.