Hello,

I recently bought a 22 silhouette rifle and a scope for it at an auction.  Scope is a 36x leupold in case you are wondering, rifle is an anschutz 54MS.  Anyways before I take it out and begin to practice I want to re-zero the scope so I have my full windage and elevation available.  Will this work, run the scope all the way left, count the clicks all the way right, then go back 1/2 way.  Do same for up/down and then repeat once or twice to make sure?  Then I should be able to use the leupold rear bases to take up and left/right when I boresight it.  And I plan to take the bolt out and look at a target method to boresight, I don't want to run a spud in the crown, this rifle is to nice to even chance the slightest scratch on the crown, I know I am a freak.

Will the re-zeroing work or is there a better method?

whiterabbit_308

That's how you mechanically zero a scope before you bore sight it.

That is how you zero it.

I don't know how useful it would be on a .22, but since you use very little movement in the "up" direction it wouldn't hurt to move the rear base up to sight it in.  This gives you more movement in the "down" direction for longer shots.  Kind of like the Badger Ordnance 20MOA compensated base.

Just a thought...

whiterabbit,

As Zoinks said, that is how you mechaniscally zero.  But is it true center?

To find out, cut two vees in a cardboard box (in line like a scope mount).  Rezero.  While looking through scope turn it in circle.  If the reticle moves it is not true center.

There is a benefit to a centered scope. Most scope offer less parallax and clearer optics the closer to true center you get.  A few clicks don;t matter, but if you get to one end or the other it really does.

To really mount that puppie right, buy the Burris Signature rings with an offset insert kit.  Boresight the puppie as close as you can with these.  Do final zero on range using scope movement.  Oh, and the Burris rings negate the need to lap the mount.

James