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Posted: 11/26/2021 5:37:15 PM EDT
[#1]
My wife would not be pleased if I tried that with ours, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. They tend to hold their temperature very well.
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Posted: 11/29/2021 9:05:10 AM EDT
[#2]
As long as it is clean I would imagine it should work well as the heat is well circulated. The issue I saw with a toaster oven is the parts usually sit too close to the heating element causing a slightly different finished look, making a semi-gloss looking more flat but putting up a aluminum foil sheet in front of the element helps with the issue. I made a larger toaster oven with a small one drawer file cabinet, cut hole in the side and mounted the element plus controls in it. Works great, plenty of room for smaller thing for doing longer items I added a mod for that as well.
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Posted: 12/14/2021 10:59:37 AM EDT
[#3]
The answer is a resounding... YES. You can cure parts in an air fryer. Worked amazingly well, after it cooled down I tested it with MEK and the rag stayed clean and the finish stayed on. It was about 45 degrees out last night, I set the air fryer to 300, set it for an hour, and away it went!
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Posted: 12/16/2021 1:18:53 AM EDT
[#4]
How did you keep the parts off the rack?
Just curious, but why Monly resin? |
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Posted: 12/16/2021 11:42:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How did you keep the parts off the rack? Just curious, but why Monly resin? The air fryer I have has holes on the sides of the inner basket. I took some 20 ga wire and strung it through the part and tied it around the holes. I went with Moly Resin because I don't have the time or materials at the moment to start up an anodizing operation. |
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Posted: 12/17/2021 12:30:22 AM EDT
[#6]
Totally. Anodizing and coating are two different levels. I was more asking why Norrell verses Cerakote or GunKote or Durakote. We don’t hear much about John these days
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Posted: 12/17/2021 10:48:07 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Totally. Anodizing and coating are two different levels. I was more asking why Norrell verses Cerakote or GunKote or Durakote. We don’t hear much about John these days No solid articulable reason, really. I've just seen Norrells tossed around a ton in the retro forum. It just seemed like a good fit for me with the oven cure and being able to remove before curing. I'm very happy with the color and results so far and will experiment again with it. I bought the flat black and colt gray colors so I'm going to try to re-color an upper and charging handle next. |
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Posted: 12/20/2021 10:39:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Totally. Anodizing and coating are two different levels. I was more asking why Norrell verses Cerakote or GunKote or Durakote. We don't hear much about John these days |
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Posted: 12/20/2021 11:06:25 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: While cerakote is a great finish, the ability to apply an over-coat to Norrell's after its been cured has it advantages for me as you don't have to take it down to bare metal if you want to change up your paint scheme. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Totally. Anodizing and coating are two different levels. I was more asking why Norrell verses Cerakote or GunKote or Durakote. We don't hear much about John these days I've seen a lower that wouldn't close with any upper because the person who Cerakoted it layed it on too thick on the top edge of the receiver. As you noted, being able to touch up the moly resin and re-bake seemed like a really cool plus as well. |
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Posted: 1/16/2022 6:28:09 PM EDT
[#10]
Did some Norrell's in an old toaster oven several weeks ago, it worked very well
 
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Posted: 1/17/2022 2:49:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Here's my diy hack featuring a toaster oven guts shoved into on end of a file cabinet with a box on top to be able to do long items that wouldn't fit into the filing cabinet. Doing small things like a pistol, wood box isn't used.
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