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Posted: 9/26/2020 9:08:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I mentioned in the OP that one of the advantages of this kind of paint pattern is when you upgrade your rifle parts or accessories. My LaRue UU 6.5 has been an amazingly accurate rifle, but the RAT stock just wasn't giving me the cheek rest I want on a long range rifle. I want sure I wanted to go with the UBR like my .308,(super solid, but spendy, and heavyish)and decided the ACS is right for this gun. ACS was black. Didn't tape anything off today, just wiped down the stock and area around it. It took longer to get the materials out than it took to paint the new stock. Paint was done in about 15min. Now it looks like it was in it when I originally painted the rifle. https://i.imgur.com/jONV1GL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZMFDlod.jpg Looks great!! I need to sack up and try this, but imma scared..... 
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Posted: 9/26/2020 9:17:50 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks great!! I need to sack up and try this, but imma scared..... You just repaint if you don't like it.  No reason to be scared. |
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Posted: 9/29/2020 9:34:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Scared to try on real guns.....?
My district is going away from airsoft guns for ALICE training and bought these to replace them. They asked me to make them look a bit more real. I used the chance to give a couple classes a lesson in sponge painting.    Still have a bit of cleaning up to do tomorrow. I just used krylon. I added gray to the palette, in place of coyote.   I'm try to get some better pictures tomorrow. 
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Posted: 10/11/2020 9:02:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Update:
Success on the hunt.  This is my old hunting rifle, Remington 700 SS in .338win mag. Updated with camo and a new/old scope. Looks good on the side of the hill.  Almost dissappears ......  |
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Posted: 10/11/2020 9:06:42 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 10/24/2020 7:21:33 PM EDT
[#6]
 
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Posted: 11/1/2020 11:56:20 PM EDT
[#7]
To me, that is the toughest part, finding the correct colors for your particular area. The second is, it might look like crap in your garage, but awesome in the field.
I equate it to looking at an oil painting. Getting close, and seeing how the paint textures and colors look vs standing back and seeing how those look completely different in the total work. Not sure if that makes sense. |
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Posted: 11/16/2020 6:45:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Update: Success on the hunt. This is my old hunting rifle, Remington 700 SS in .338win mag. Updated with camo and a new/old scope. Looks good on the side of the hill. https://i.imgur.com/EA6LHbV.jpg Almost dissappears ...... https://i.imgur.com/pE9bfrG.jpg Nice bull and nice paint job! |
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Posted: 2/3/2021 10:17:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: To me, that is the toughest part, finding the correct colors for your particular area. The second is, it might look like crap in your garage, but awesome in the field. I equate it to looking at an oil painting. Getting close, and seeing how the paint textures and colors look vs standing back and seeing how those look completely different in the total work. Not sure if that makes sense. This is a good description.  I try to get students to look at their work in a blank stare. Don't focus on any one part just look through it. See what stands out too much, or not enough. Make corrections from there. Stand back from it 10feet. Things look different than when you are 6 inches away and focusing on a single color or spot. I get back from my guns several times during the painting process. Look at them from a distance. Go from there. |
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Posted: 2/4/2021 10:14:07 AM EDT
[#10]
Is there a rule of thumb on number of colors? 3 colors vs. 4 colors is my usual decision?
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Posted: 2/4/2021 10:48:21 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there a rule of thumb on number of colors? 3 colors vs. 4 colors is my usual decision? I like 4 Values, although two of my usual are about the same lightness/darkness. If you don't include black as a color, then yes, three colors and black. 
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Posted: 2/4/2021 6:31:36 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like 4 Values, although two of my usual are about the same lightness/darkness. If you don't include black as a color, then yes, three colors and black. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is there a rule of thumb on number of colors? 3 colors vs. 4 colors is my usual decision? I like 4 Values, although two of my usual are about the same lightness/darkness. If you don't include black as a color, then yes, three colors and black. Can you explain ( or point me to a link) to explain the difference? I never had the opportunity for art education so I’m way behind the curve (too many math classes)
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Posted: 2/4/2021 8:12:36 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you explain ( or point me to a link) to explain the difference? I never had the opportunity for art education so I’m way behind the curve (too many math classes)Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Is there a rule of thumb on number of colors? 3 colors vs. 4 colors is my usual decision? I like 4 Values, although two of my usual are about the same lightness/darkness. If you don't include black as a color, then yes, three colors and black. Can you explain ( or point me to a link) to explain the difference? I never had the opportunity for art education so I’m way behind the curve (too many math classes)Ok, think of VALUES as light and darks We want a very light value color, a medium light color, a med dark value, and a dark or black value. Colors are hues. Your hues or colors could all be on the green side of the color wheel, but one might be a light green, one an olive green, one a more dark green, and finally we might use a black. Most of my colors I've chosen are in the brown, or tan family of colors. I've substituted a med value, olive green, from time to time, taking out the Coyote or Earth Brown color. When my student wanted to do a snow camo, he chose colors/hues mostly on the blue side of the color wheel. I am have to go check again. He picked white as his light value, light blue, med blue/gray, and black. His dark value could have been a dark blue or dark blue/gray, and worked pretty well too. We also don't want our hues/colors to be too intense. Intensity is how bright the colors are, or how saturated they are. Super bright high intensity colors won't work real well for our camo purpose. Think more neutral/pastel type colors. Instead of a bright turquoise blue hue, we want more of a grayishblue. Then we have to get the value, or darkness of that hue we want. Make sense? Look at my painting in my avatar.....super high intensity colors, but still lots of value contrast(darks and lights)that make the bison look 3D. Value contrast, or differences in lights and darks, help to break up our weapons outline and make the camouflage more effective. The hues/colors make it blend into the surrounding environment. Snow, desert, jungle......alpine. |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 12:00:15 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ok, think of VALUES as light and darks We want a very light value color, a medium light color, a med dark value, and a dark or black value. Colors are hues. Your hues or colors could all be on the green side of the color wheel, but one might be a light green, one an olive green, one a more dark green, and finally we might use a black. Most of my colors I've chosen are in the brown, or tan family of colors. I've substituted a med value, olive green, from time to time, taking out the Coyote or Earth Brown color. When my student wanted to do a snow camo, he chose colors/hues mostly on the blue side of the color wheel. I am have to go check again. He picked white as his light value, light blue, med blue/gray, and black. His dark value could have been a dark blue or dark blue/gray, and worked pretty well too. We also don't want our hues/colors to be too intense. Intensity is how bright the colors are, or how saturated they are. Super bright high intensity colors won't work real well for our camo purpose. Think more neutral/pastel type colors. Instead of a bright turquoise blue hue, we want more of a grayishblue. Then we have to get the value, or darkness of that hue we want. Make sense? Look at my painting in my avatar.....super high intensity colors, but still lots of value contrast(darks and lights)that make the bison look 3D. Value contrast, or differences in lights and darks, help to break up our weapons outline and make the camouflage more effective. The hues/colors make it blend into the surrounding environment. Snow, desert, jungle......alpine. Well explained sir! Not that I was the one who asked but thank you. |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 12:21:47 AM EDT
[#15]
@guns762
Have you ever painted an ammo can? I picked up an old fat 50 and the paint is kinda rough. I have all the Alumahyde paint and also have all of the krylon paints to do the sponge painting. Since the can is going to be a safe queen do you think I would be okay with the krylon? Any tips on prepping the surface? It's currently worn out green. Thanks man. |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 8:51:14 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @guns762 Have you ever painted an ammo can? I picked up an old fat 50 and the paint is kinda rough. I have all the Alumahyde paint and also have all of the krylon paints to do the sponge painting. Since the can is going to be a safe queen do you think I would be okay with the krylon? Any tips on prepping the surface? It's currently worn out green. Thanks man. Nope, but prep work should work the same. Wipe with alcohol to clean it, then paint. The krylon will be fine, but if you are stacking them together, my guess is the krylon will get worn off over time where it contacts other ammo cans. That probably wouldn't be that noticeable if it already has a base coat OD green. The Krylon would probably be fine. Like I said, that's what is on my Arsenal AK. It's gotten almost all of my shooting time lately, as I have a decent supply of ammo for it, and don't mind shooting it all up. Haven't seen much wear of the paint yet. I've got some smaller black painted cans, I may have to play with now. Paint yours up and post the results! I'd like to see it! |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 8:58:24 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well explained sir! Not that I was the one who asked but thank you. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Ok, think of VALUES as light and darks We want a very light value color, a medium light color, a med dark value, and a dark or black value. Colors are hues. Your hues or colors could all be on the green side of the color wheel, but one might be a light green, one an olive green, one a more dark green, and finally we might use a black. Most of my colors I've chosen are in the brown, or tan family of colors. I've substituted a med value, olive green, from time to time, taking out the Coyote or Earth Brown color. When my student wanted to do a snow camo, he chose colors/hues mostly on the blue side of the color wheel. I am have to go check again. He picked white as his light value, light blue, med blue/gray, and black. His dark value could have been a dark blue or dark blue/gray, and worked pretty well too. We also don't want our hues/colors to be too intense. Intensity is how bright the colors are, or how saturated they are. Super bright high intensity colors won't work real well for our camo purpose. Think more neutral/pastel type colors. Instead of a bright turquoise blue hue, we want more of a grayishblue. Then we have to get the value, or darkness of that hue we want. Make sense? Look at my painting in my avatar.....super high intensity colors, but still lots of value contrast(darks and lights)that make the bison look 3D. Value contrast, or differences in lights and darks, help to break up our weapons outline and make the camouflage more effective. The hues/colors make it blend into the surrounding environment. Snow, desert, jungle......alpine. Well explained sir! Not that I was the one who asked but thank you. Thanks, Now get out your duck references and your pencils and let's get the sketch of your ducks drawn, remember fill the composition with your duck, no shading with the pencil, drawn the outline shapes of the water reflections, but no horizon line......... Damn, sorry....  ......that's what we do after the normal color theory lesson.And in our color theory conundrum. ......where is brown on the color wheel?  Answer.......it's usually a dark yellow or dark orange in its high intensity hue. |
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Posted: 2/6/2021 12:28:51 PM EDT
[#18]
I am considering a camo job on my M1A. But I am colorblind. Any suggestions for figuring out the colors? My wife has an art degree, but I refuse to bring her in on it. She spent most of our early years together asking me “ What does this look like to you?”
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Posted: 2/6/2021 12:36:18 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am considering a camo job on my M1A. But I am colorblind. Any suggestions for figuring out the colors? My wife has an art degree, but I refuse to bring her in on it. She spent most of our early years together asking me “ What does this look like to you?” My favorites are posted in the OP. Substituting OD green for the Earth brown, would be an option for those in slightly less arid environments. It seems to work pretty well everywhere I play around in. Lots of good ideas/color combos from those in different regions here. I've found the set I use, works in the Rocky Mountains, as well as our high deserts pretty well. Choose a set that fits your local. |
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Posted: 2/7/2021 10:59:06 AM EDT
[#20]
Surprisingly, (or not) everything is out of stock. I will have to start driving around to all off the small shops in nearby towns. If anyone is on the fence about getting started on this, better make up your mind.
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Posted: 3/31/2021 5:05:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Weather is warming up so it's going to be sponge painting season soon.
Now I'm looking around for some natural sponges at a reasonable price. |
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Posted: 3/31/2021 5:51:41 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Weather is warming up so it's going to be sponge painting season soon. Now I'm looking around for some natural sponges at a reasonable price. Paint is back in stock for those looking. One of my students ordered some last week. |
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Posted: 4/1/2021 3:28:57 PM EDT
[#23]
I've got a student doing a pair of binoculars right now. He's got a rifle stock he's going to bring in next week. Binocs look good.
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Posted: 4/1/2021 8:55:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Here is one of my student's first attempts using this method. We discussed making the sponge marks different sizes, as well as spacing. He used desert tan, coyote, OD green, and black.
  Pulling the masking off.   
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Posted: 7/7/2021 3:41:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Update
New victims today. It's been a while since I've had time to paint again. I have a few accessories that need painted to match rifles they are on, and a couple new rifles.  Someone mentioned my garage looked like some evil dungeon earlier in the thread....I'm not sure what you mean????  I got all set up and forgot a kind of important ingredient.  Almost started without cleaning.   I also had to go look for my sponges. I found my box and used what was left, but next time is going to require new sponges.  1st color   2nd color   3rd color    I forgot to grab photos after a bit of black and my first sponge color of the desert tan.    After all 4 values sponged on, with just a little black.  I had to go back and add just a bit more black to the bottom rear of the stock after this photo.   I'll post some finished photos when everything has a bit more time to cure and I can handle them. It's a warm day so I might be able to do this later this afternoon.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:00:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Masterful work, 7.62. When it comes to time to touch up a couple of my ARs, I'm going to do this. My XCR already has something similar going on.
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Posted: 7/8/2021 5:46:15 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Masterful work, 7.62. When it comes to time to touch up a couple of my ARs, I'm going to do this. My XCR already has something similar going on. Thank your, Sir!Finished up pics. It's a little too early to slap the stock pack on the .22mag. The Eotech and Streamlight are two of the freshly painted accessories. Pretty easy to make them match the rest of the guns finish when you paint like this. Probably one of the most attractive things about this style of camo.  Notice the stock pack sponge marks. Even on the edges of the pack, you can add just a little singing and it really helps tie it all together. The two 7.62 mags are supposed to go with my 6.5 Creedmoor. They may he a bit light. I tried to make them purposely darker than my .308 mags to keep them all easy to match. I may have to go back and redo these.  The M&P 15-22 pistol   The Savage BM22. 22mag   
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Posted: 7/26/2021 9:14:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Had this rifle out in the wild this past week. The coyotes didn't want to play.
 Had one slight oopsie......rifle came off my front pack, and I ran over it with my 600 lb 4wheeler carrying myself and 100 lb GSD. I wanted to cry. It was in a soft case. I did check zero and it was only off by 1moa right. Anyway..... camo style blends in well in couple different areas.    
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Posted: 8/1/2021 8:33:14 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 8/25/2021 2:11:39 PM EDT
[#30]
@guns762 I have a question on nozzles and Alumahyde. I'm having a real issue keeping my nozzles working properly. I was just giving an AK mag a basecoat of Alumahyde FDE, and despite manually clearing the nozzle I still ended up with more of a splattery spray than a mist.
Should I soak in some sort of solvent? Buy new nozzles? |
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Posted: 8/25/2021 4:30:06 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @guns762 I have a question on nozzles and Alumahyde. I'm having a real issue keeping my nozzles working properly. I was just giving an AK mag a basecoat of Alumahyde FDE, and despite manually clearing the nozzle I still ended up with more of a splattery spray than a mist. Should I soak in some sort of solvent? Buy new nozzles? I usually take the nozzles off after I spray and blow carb cleaner through them and then air from the air compressor. That seems to keep them like new. I have bought a pack of new nozzles but I haven't needed any yet. Brake cleaner is known to remove dried alumahyde so I would try blowing some of that through the nozzle a couple times and then blow out with air. |
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Posted: 8/25/2021 5:45:17 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I usually take the nozzles off after I spray and blow carb cleaner through them and then air from the air compressor. That seems to keep them like new. I have bought a pack of new nozzles but I haven't needed any yet. Brake cleaner is known to remove dried alumahyde so I would try blowing some of that through the nozzle a couple times and then blow out with air. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @guns762 I have a question on nozzles and Alumahyde. I'm having a real issue keeping my nozzles working properly. I was just giving an AK mag a basecoat of Alumahyde FDE, and despite manually clearing the nozzle I still ended up with more of a splattery spray than a mist. Should I soak in some sort of solvent? Buy new nozzles? I usually take the nozzles off after I spray and blow carb cleaner through them and then air from the air compressor. That seems to keep them like new. I have bought a pack of new nozzles but I haven't needed any yet. Brake cleaner is known to remove dried alumahyde so I would try blowing some of that through the nozzle a couple times and then blow out with air. This seems like good practice to me. I found that often, it isn't the nozzles so much, as it is the paint not being shaken up enough. Paint dries down in the straw a bit, and I think it gets chunky. I often clear out a bit of paint after shaking the cans up really well. This allows fresh paint to get to the top and often makes for a better, less splattery pattern. I will test fire paints into a trash can to make sure paint is coming out smooth and not spitting. New nozzles sometimes is the answer. |
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Posted: 8/26/2021 1:11:50 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This seems like good practice to me. I found that often, it isn't the nozzles so much, as it is the paint not being shaken up enough. Paint dries down in the straw a bit, and I think it gets chunky. I often clear out a bit of paint after shaking the cans up really well. This allows fresh paint to get to the top and often makes for a better, less splattery pattern. I will test fire paints into a trash can to make sure paint is coming out smooth and not spitting. New nozzles sometimes is the answer. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: @guns762 I have a question on nozzles and Alumahyde. I'm having a real issue keeping my nozzles working properly. I was just giving an AK mag a basecoat of Alumahyde FDE, and despite manually clearing the nozzle I still ended up with more of a splattery spray than a mist. Should I soak in some sort of solvent? Buy new nozzles? I usually take the nozzles off after I spray and blow carb cleaner through them and then air from the air compressor. That seems to keep them like new. I have bought a pack of new nozzles but I haven't needed any yet. Brake cleaner is known to remove dried alumahyde so I would try blowing some of that through the nozzle a couple times and then blow out with air. This seems like good practice to me. I found that often, it isn't the nozzles so much, as it is the paint not being shaken up enough. Paint dries down in the straw a bit, and I think it gets chunky. I often clear out a bit of paint after shaking the cans up really well. This allows fresh paint to get to the top and often makes for a better, less splattery pattern. I will test fire paints into a trash can to make sure paint is coming out smooth and not spitting. New nozzles sometimes is the answer. Thanks gents! A little application of solvent fixed the nozzle! Now I have a normal spray instead of a splatter
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Posted: 8/27/2021 8:01:41 AM EDT
[#34]
The carb cleaner blow out works, as does the dedicated blow-out nozzles that brownells sells for clearing out the tube. Will say had bad results with can of earth brown, it was damn gritty and no amount of shaking would help
, felt like 400 grit sandpaper when cured. So I let it cure, then hit it lightly with some w/d sand paper which helped but was still disappointing. |
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Posted: 9/11/2021 11:56:06 AM EDT
[#35]
You got an epic from me op. Fantastic thread. Thanks for taking the time.
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Posted: 10/11/2021 4:27:19 PM EDT
[#36]
Great thread. Valuable information post after post. Thanks OP for all the detail!
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Posted: 10/17/2021 3:57:54 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Had this rifle out in the wild this past week. The coyotes didn't want to play. Had one slight oopsie......rifle came off my front pack, and I ran over it with my 600 lb 4wheeler carrying myself and 100 lb GSD. I wanted to cry. It was in a soft case. I did check zero and it was only off by 1moa right. Anyway..... camo style blends in well in couple different areas. https://i.imgur.com/wmFGqRd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Kb3PjwR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/I6bNZHp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iUXqjNr.jpg Beautiful as always. Glad the rifle was ok! |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 9:09:07 PM EDT
[#38]
Just came across this thread. WOW! Gonna need to do some painting now.
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Posted: 11/16/2021 12:58:30 PM EDT
[#39]
Thanks for compiling this.
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Posted: 11/17/2021 5:34:45 PM EDT
[#40]
Great thread, great thread!!!! So how does this particular paint setup? Is it sticky or rough or smooth or a combination of sticky and smooth, etc.? I cannot stand the feel of certain spray paints with that grittiness.
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Posted: 11/17/2021 8:28:47 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Great thread, great thread!!!! So how does this particular paint setup? Is it sticky or rough or smooth or a combination of sticky and smooth, etc.? I cannot stand the feel of certain spray paints with that grittiness. Paint sets up pretty smooth. It will take a bit of time to cure. I tell people give it two weeks for full hardness, but you can often handle it a few hours after spraying it. I have had it come our rough using old cans of paint that weren't mixed well, and little left in the can. |
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Posted: 11/18/2021 7:31:58 PM EDT
[#42]
 Attached FileHanging to dry so I rotated the image, I couldn't bring myself to paint the optic yet. I'm real happy with it. Thanks @guns762 for the inspiration and techniques! |
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Posted: 11/18/2021 7:48:36 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/429493/20211117_140406_jpg-2171755.JPGHanging to dry so I rotated the image, I couldn't bring myself to paint the optic yet. I'm real happy with it. Thanks @guns762 for the inspiration and techniques!  Excellent work! You have just the right balance of sponge marks and soft transitions from the spray nozzles. Seriously, great work! Now, GO PAINT THE DAMN OPTIC!!!!
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Posted: 1/8/2022 9:48:25 AM EDT
[#44]
Awesome thread! I haven't ever tried painting a rifle, but I can see it in my future.
What would you recommend to remove paint from optics, plastic, etc. if I try this and want to get rid of it? I would assume it's fairly easy to remove from steel and aluminum without damaging the original anodizing or nitride, but getting off of optics or plastic without damaging them seems like it might be a bit more difficult. |
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Posted: 1/8/2022 12:23:01 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Awesome thread! I haven't ever tried painting a rifle, but I can see it in my future. What would you recommend to remove paint from optics, plastic, etc. if I try this and want to get rid of it? I would assume it's fairly easy to remove from steel and aluminum without damaging the original anodizing or nitride, but getting off of optics or plastic without damaging them seems like it might be a bit more difficult. Alumahide isn't coming off easily. At least, I don't know of what would take it off. Krylon will come off with acetone. Alumahide is heat and chemical resistant. Maybe someone else has experience taking it off? I just paint over it.
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Posted: 1/8/2022 5:47:48 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Alumahide isn't coming off easily. At least, I don't know of what would take it off. Krylon will come off with acetone. Alumahide is heat and chemical resistant. Maybe someone else has experience taking it off? I just paint over it. Thanks for the info. I'll probably start by practicing on something cheap like spare stocks, grips etc. before I attack a full gun or optics. I'm a pretty decent painter, but I won't claim to be artistic. |
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Posted: 1/11/2022 4:36:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Alumahide isn't coming off easily. At least, I don't know of what would take it off. Krylon will come off with acetone. Alumahide is heat and chemical resistant. Maybe someone else has experience taking it off? I just paint over it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Awesome thread! I haven't ever tried painting a rifle, but I can see it in my future. What would you recommend to remove paint from optics, plastic, etc. if I try this and want to get rid of it? I would assume it's fairly easy to remove from steel and aluminum without damaging the original anodizing or nitride, but getting off of optics or plastic without damaging them seems like it might be a bit more difficult. Alumahide isn't coming off easily. At least, I don't know of what would take it off. Krylon will come off with acetone. Alumahide is heat and chemical resistant. Maybe someone else has experience taking it off? I just paint over it. Citri Strip and a lot of patience has got Aluma Hyde off for me, but I would just paint over it if it as adhering that well. |
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Posted: 1/13/2022 10:18:05 PM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 2/9/2022 12:16:34 PM EDT
[#49]
Awesome tutorial! Can't wait to give it a try, waiting for Brownells to get some paint back in stock...
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Posted: 2/12/2022 5:34:50 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Awesome thread! I haven't ever tried painting a rifle, but I can see it in my future. What would you recommend to remove paint from optics, plastic, etc. if I try this and want to get rid of it? I would assume it's fairly easy to remove from steel and aluminum without damaging the original anodizing or nitride, but getting off of optics or plastic without damaging them seems like it might be a bit more difficult. Frankly, if you use Alumahyde then I would recommend make sure you are okay with it before you do it. Aluma Hyde is very difficult to remove from any surface. Practice on stuff that isn’t your rifle or optic first. |
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