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Posted: 6/5/2019 5:47:30 PM EDT
Over the years, I continually get IM requests for how to sponge paint the pattern on my rifles, pistols, and even accessories. I had a "how to" thread years ago, but the pictures are now not available thanks to Photobucket and Flickr.
So here is the latest and greatest "How to sponge paint, by guns762." Before we begin, what should you expect? Well, this pattern seems to blend in with arid terrain fairly well. It's easy to touch up, and paint accessories to match after it is painted. I use Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. It wears extremely well, even on my pistols that get a lot of holster use. I've also done this with Krylon, and have no complaints, but it is not as wear resistant. These are a couple photos of what it should look like when finished. I'm going to add to this post and thread in stages so my tablet doesn't glitch out and lose the information before I can get it posted. Attached File This one, I touched up today. Edited to add 8/3/22- please read the entire thread for clarifications and more in depth instructions and explanations on how I apply the sponge marks. Updates are posted throughout the thread. I started taking pictures for this thread about a month ago when a friend decided he wanted to take the plunge and paint his rifles in this pattern. We used his shop, as it was pretty dang cold outside, and he had a paint room with heat. I had this pistol that I also wanted to paint. Everyone wants to know what colors I use, so here they are. I've substituted a few through out the years, but these are my go to's. I encourage people to think about using four different values=lights and darks when choosing the colors. Tow of these are relatively similar in value , the Coyote, and Brown, but they still work well. If you change up the colors, think about the values. Light, med light, dark, and black will make the best pattern. I've got a can of OD green that could easily be substituted for the brown. From this afternoon, same cans. I encourage you to buy extra nozzles. They plug up easily, and aren't easy to find. I've bought red and black replacements locally, but they don't fit. I usually can find a spare spray can with a white nozzle to steal from, but it can be frustrating when you are in the middle of painting and they plug up. It happened today, and I had to use the same nozzle in three of the four cans. So, with paint selected, let's go through the steps for preparation. I like to use denatured alcohol to wipe down whatever I'm going to paint. It seems to work well, and I usually don't have problems with paint chipping or peeling later. If you do a good job in cleaning, your paint will last much longer. I use a lint free cloth to wipe down with the alcohol. You can also use cotton balls, or Q-tips, if you can't reach an area easily with the cloth. Because I did this again today, I've got similar photos of different stages. I didn't have to paint a whole rifle today, just touch up some recently added accessories and a few mags. What I like best about this finish is how easily you can do this and make the match. This pattern also hides scrapes, dings, and general wear very well. Once you have things wiped down, it's time to tape off what you don't want painted. This scope and new mount are getting touched up to better match the .22 it's going on. It came off of one of my other rifles. Usually the pattern matches pretty close, but some times there are dark or light areas thst need a little blending to look just right. We found this was an easy way to cut similar shapes to cover small numbers on the optics. |
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Your weapons look amazing. Going to try this shortly on a couple of A2 stocks first before I hit on of my weapons. The sponge seems to give one of the best camo jobs...Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks fellas.
I hope this encourages people to try the technique. I used to be one of those people who wanted my guns left black, but it's so boring, and they inevitably get scratched, dinged, and worn with use. Now I don't have to worry. Wear is easily covered back up, and I think they look great. My youngest just finished putting his first AR together, and he wants to try something similar, but in a grey scale. Kind of an urban camo type theme. It will be fun to see how it turns out. I'm thinking black, dark parkerizing grey, light grey, and maybe white, or desert tan. I'll have to look and see what colors Brownells has on hand. |
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Did you paint a base coat of OD green on the rifles before you added the diagonal lines?
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Quoted:
Did you paint a base coat of OD green on the rifles before you added the diagonal lines? View Quote And on the rifles and accessories pictured, I didn't use any OD green. |
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that technique looks like it could do pretty nice tiger stripe, if one were so inclined.
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Very good write ups to all participants, ive got a budget AR i may try this on.
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Awesome pictures thanks for posting. Everyone should have at least one rattle can gun https://i.imgur.com/aP6K43v.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4SqYWhx.jpg View Quote Great looking rifle! |
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This makes all my painted rifles look homeless. Great work OP.
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Cool thread - learned a lot that will assist with my next paint job.
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Thanks for the compliment. My shooting buddies and I were playing "Campsite photos" this weekend. I took these as a joke, as it's from the back of our cabin. The 10/22, I've obviously posted before, but this has a good view of the cheek pad. Even with my heavy sweating against it, and several years of use now, the paint has held up great on the soft surface. https://i.imgur.com/cb9WAcf.jpg My rifle next to my son's 1st AR. He hasn't decided what to paint his yet. https://i.imgur.com/nCnCerM.jpg View Quote My buddy is using your tutorial to do an urban camo on a Glock |
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This may just make me brave enough to paint mine. How does the paint you use hold up to heat? I want to my can also.
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This may just make me brave enough to paint mine. How does the paint you use hold up to heat? I want to my can also. View Quote |
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Post up pictures of the results when he gets it done. I'd love to see it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Attached File Quoted:
This may just make me brave enough to paint mine. How does the paint you use hold up to heat? I want to my can also. |
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Here's his sample piece. Working on bravery to do the rest https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263586/Attach33273_20190630_175434_jpg-1039439.JPG It will probably hold up if you don't mag dump. High rates if fire will cause the paint to peel. You can buy high temp grill paint, some are rated 1200 degrees and I've even seen some 2000 degrees. Those would work fine. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Post up pictures of the results when he gets it done. I'd love to see it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263586/Attach33273_20190630_175434_jpg-1039439.JPG Quoted:
This may just make me brave enough to paint mine. How does the paint you use hold up to heat? I want to my can also. As to the mag dumps, and I know you were talking about the can, but on the barrels, I've never had problems with it coming off or anything, even with mag dumps and serious heat. Thats just to reassure people considering doing this. |
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For people who’ve painted bolt action stocks, do you still have free float clearance after painting the stock?
I’m assuming a few layers of paint won’t fill in the clearance between barrel and stock channel but just checking. I’m thinking about making the ugly, boring black stock on my T/C Compass more interesting with some sponge camo, but I’m uncertain if I should mask off the barrel channel? |
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For people who've painted bolt action stocks, do you still have free float clearance after painting the stock? I'm assuming a few layers of paint won't fill in the clearance between barrel and stock channel but just checking. I'm thinking about making the ugly, boring black stock on my T/C Compass more interesting with some sponge camo, but I'm uncertain if I should mask off the barrel channel? View Quote |
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Mine does. If you have concerns just put a layer of blue painters tape down. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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For people who've painted bolt action stocks, do you still have free float clearance after painting the stock? I'm assuming a few layers of paint won't fill in the clearance between barrel and stock channel but just checking. I'm thinking about making the ugly, boring black stock on my T/C Compass more interesting with some sponge camo, but I'm uncertain if I should mask off the barrel channel? |
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I agree, I doubt you would have a problem. The tape would be an easy preventative step. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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For people who've painted bolt action stocks, do you still have free float clearance after painting the stock? I'm assuming a few layers of paint won't fill in the clearance between barrel and stock channel but just checking. I'm thinking about making the ugly, boring black stock on my T/C Compass more interesting with some sponge camo, but I'm uncertain if I should mask off the barrel channel? Once I pulled the action I saw it really wouldn’t be a problem due to the pillar bedding, but it was easy to run a a line of masking tape. This thread has inspired me to go ahead and try this. I’m painting the stock during commercial breaks in the games. |
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Attached File
Kind of a muddy mess. All I have for sponges was an artificial sponge, and it seems to leave big blobs. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/9E374853-866F-4011-AD25-B425DE935CE4_jpeg-1099340.JPG Kind of a muddy mess. All I have for sponges was an artificial sponge, and it seems to leave big blobs. View Quote |
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You need to tear the sponge into different size pieces, and into different shapes. Only apply enough pressure for the paint to apply in the pattern of the sponge. Try not to smash the sponge all the way down. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/9E374853-866F-4011-AD25-B425DE935CE4_jpeg-1099340.JPG Kind of a muddy mess. All I have for sponges was an artificial sponge, and it seems to leave big blobs. Attached File |
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Quoted: Thanks, using your advice I think this is improved. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/C5926A37-34F9-43E5-A3DC-D9A361B3A398_jpeg-1099488.JPG View Quote Less pressure is better. You can always add more. |
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Looks better! Less pressure is better. You can always add more. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Thanks, using your advice I think this is improved. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/C5926A37-34F9-43E5-A3DC-D9A361B3A398_jpeg-1099488.JPG Less pressure is better. You can always add more. I worked over the entire stock, and here’s a sample of where I ended: Attached File Still a little blotchy but I think workable. The stock is no longer boring black Tupperware and now it has a dull finish with some visual breakup. I don’t think the deer will mind. |
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Quoted: Thanks. Using a light touch with the sponge was key. I worked over the entire stock, and here's a sample of where I ended: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/8535A1FC-62CA-4354-B8A0-191C7F807DE5_jpeg-1099797.JPG Still a little blotchy but I think workable. The stock is no longer boring black Tupperware and now it has a dull finish with some visual breakup. I don't think the deer will mind. View Quote Best thing, it will look better with age. The black will wear through spots and look good. And it will be easy to touch up if you want |
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Best thing, it will look better with age. The black will wear through spots and look good. And it will be easy to touch up if you want View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Thanks. Using a light touch with the sponge was key. I worked over the entire stock, and here's a sample of where I ended: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/314595/8535A1FC-62CA-4354-B8A0-191C7F807DE5_jpeg-1099797.JPG Still a little blotchy but I think workable. The stock is no longer boring black Tupperware and now it has a dull finish with some visual breakup. I don't think the deer will mind. Best thing, it will look better with age. The black will wear through spots and look good. And it will be easy to touch up if you want It's hard for humans to not make patterns. It takes concentration to keep the spacing and shapes varied. |
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@guns762
Wow. What a remarkable thread! I've followed all of your school threads for a long time, thanks for the awesome write up here too! I have a 300 blackout in mind to paint. I'll order the paint in a few days. You said get extra nozzles, do you get those from Brownells too? Where do you get your sponges? It looks like your sponges make larger blots while some of the others I've seen posted are much finer blotches. I like the bigger spots yours seem to make. Any tips for getting that look rather than the "pom pom" look where the sponge blots? |
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@guns762 Wow. What a remarkable thread! I've followed all of your school threads for a long time, thanks for the awesome write up here too! I have a 300 blackout in mind to paint. I'll order the paint in a few days. You said get extra nozzles, do you get those from Brownells too? Where do you get your sponges? It looks like your sponges make larger blots while some of the others I've seen posted are much finer blotches. I like the bigger spots yours seem to make. Any tips for getting that look rather than the "pom pom" look where the sponge blots? View Quote Yes, you should be able to order extra nozzles from Brownells. I remember them being listed. I need to order some myself. My friend and I are about ready to do another batch of accessories. We need new cans of paint too. As for sponges, I buy them at the local Ace hardware store. Look for large, firm, natural sponges. Tear them into uneven pieces. Tear the edges off, to break up the outline to jot look the same as other pieces. Jagged, and not straight edges makes better marks. As I posted earlier, apply light pressure when applying the sponges to the surface. Rotate the sponges in your hand after each mark so the shape doesn't stay in the same orientation. Also, be careful about making the spaces between the marks different. It's important not to let a pattern develop where all the spaces are the same. |
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I used just regular old Rustoleum spray paint on my camo paint job. Once it's fully dried, should I do anything to seal it? I've seen some people mention a clear coat?
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I used just regular old Rustoleum spray paint on my camo paint job. Once it's fully dried, should I do anything to seal it? I've seen some people mention a clear coat? View Quote |
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I used just regular old Rustoleum spray paint on my camo paint job. Once it's fully dried, should I do anything to seal it? I've seen some people mention a clear coat? View Quote One of the positive points of this method is, one, scratches blend in, and two, fixing scratches is as easy as blotting the sponge over top when needed. Touch up takes seconds. Clearing it makes it more difficult to match the sheen. I dont clear mine. |
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Awesome pictures thanks for posting. Everyone should have at least one rattle can gun https://i.imgur.com/aP6K43v.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4SqYWhx.jpg View Quote Did you use the same technique and sponge as the OP? I like how yours turned out with the more ‘stripey’ as opposed to a ‘splotchy’ that could happen. |
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Quoted: @JoeMal Did you use the same technique and sponge as the OP? I like how yours turned out with the more 'stripey' as opposed to a 'splotchy' that could happen. View Quote yes, same general approach. I laid a single base coat down and then used varying colors and lightly dab the paint so that I can control how it lays down. that allowed me to make the stripes as opposed to blotches. |
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Thanks Joe, and thank you OP - I have some more Aervoe on order to try this method out.
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Np it was pretty easy. Start with a single color, lay all your stripes down a few inches apart. Then layer another color, slightly overlapping and mixing up the spacing. Continue this approach of alternating colors, overlapping, etc until you get the look you want
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