Got two PVS14s and want to bridge them. I've poked around multiple vendors' sites to gather info, and just wanted to see what end-users like. Do I need to spend $700-900+ for a powered bridge? Is an unpowered bridge sufficient? Suggestions of where in-stock to get one?

What kind of PVS-14s? What kind of tubes? Is there a reason you went with bridged 14s over a dedicated bino?

Two main questions to help aim you towards which mounts to choose from:

1. Do you need to separate them on-the-fly or will they mainly stay fixed on the bridge?

2. What's your budget?

ECHO spec tubes from JRH. Main reason is that I have a brother who will be using one on occasion, and wanted the ability to separate temporarily.

They'll mainly stay fixed on the bridge, but would like to separate them occasionally to lend out one to my brother. Nothing on the fly. Don't really have a budget; comes down to features that seem more necessary than others. But like everyone, I'd like to spend less than more.

10-4

Based on your info I'd look at these bridges (in alpha order):

D-14LW: Good articulation, lighter than the D-14 minus the QD ability, and less $$. While not QD, it's pretty quick and easy to remove the -14's. With both D-14 models, the screws that go into the -14s aren't very long and you have to keep an eye on them because if they loosen they can fall off. The arms may not lock in super tight with the -14s able to pivot some which can make the image oblong and contribute to the screw loosening. You can remove the arms from the bridge if you want to run mono without an arm sticking out and adjust the tightness at the hinges.

NPBM: Lightweight and excellent image alignment due to the rings. The rings also function as a safety backup so even if the screws loosened up the rings retain the -14s on the bridge. It's not as quick and easy to remove them but it's non-issue for non-QD. There is no way to tighten up the hinges or remove the arms from the bridge. The hinges are nice and tight (or at least the one I had was) so the ability to tighten up isn't an issue.

PBM: The same features as mentioned about the NPBM but you can power on/off both monoculars using one knob, it has an internal battery in the bridge, and the ability to use a LEMO battery pack. It is the closet way to make dual -14's function like a real bino. This is an awesome feature at the expense of more added weight and cost.

I'd lean NPBM mainly for the safety back up of the rings, better image alignment, and that you'll mainly be leaving them on the bridge.

Thanks for this analysis. Do you know if anyone other than TNVC makes NPBM-like / similar quality bridges? They're out of stock.

thanks for this, I'll check it out

Not in the same price range & articulation category.

There's the more expensive Wilcox bridge and KVC. I've never used the Wilcox and don't know about availability but I've seen the KVC available BUT it doesn't come with everything you need and the other parts you need (the OSS shoe set) are extra $$ and out of stock everywhere.

If you need something sooner than later than the D-14/D-14LW is probably the best option. They are great bridges you just have to keep an eye on the screws and lock them down good but don't go too crazy.

One thing I should've added above - if you might ever decide to add a head mounted thermal (Breach or MH25 for example) and don't want to buy another bridge down the road, then the D-14, KVC, or Wilcox is the way to go.

roger that, thanks for all the help

Oh yeah another thing -

You'll need a dedicated monocular arm & mount to use the -14 you separate off the bridge. With the D-14 or KVC even though you'll have the dovetail arm/shoe on the -14 it isn't offset and it won't line up with the helmet mount.

I just got a NPBM off Ebay a few weeks ago. Keep an eye out there and the EE. Keep in mind all the bridges use a dovetail mount, so if you're running standard USGI stuff, you'll need a different mount. I went with a Rhino 2 and the adapter from TNVC to keep costs lower. One thing on the NPBM, my screws had a BAD habit of loosening up after just a few steps. I added a thin rubber washer and solved that problem rikkytik...

I ran a ModArmory D14 light weight mount for a while. The fit/function was great and the articulation was definitely a plus. If you're on a budget you can get a D14 with a horn interface, that way you can use the standard horn JArm and lowering arms without the expense of upgrading to dovetail mount and arms. The biggest downside to all bridges is weight. When you get @ 24oz and above your neck really starts to feel it even when using a night cap etc. Another option to getting both eyes aided is putting the money towards a Gen3 PVS7 which can be found for @ 1200-1500 and use one or the other for a backup/loaner/travel kit.

OP, since you already have the two -14s, I'd give the NPBM, D-14LW, or similar dual bridge a try before spending more $$ on another NV device.

With the right helmet setup the overall weight impacting your neck can actually be less than with a lighter weight bino. For example, a lightweight bump helmet in the proper size, 4D pads, the correct amount of counter weight, and do not add a bunch of needless weight to your helmet.

Check out this recent thread with people giving their setup weights Helmet Setup Weights

My dual -14 set up (just under 6lbs total) wasn't much different and weighed less than some bino set ups. If you counter balance it correctly the extra weight of the dual -14s sticking out front is a non-issue and IMO the total weight on your head is important. Not just the weight of the device.

Dual -14s aren't for everybody but they work great for some folks including myself. FWIW, I've owned a few dedicated binos in addition to dual -14s and still do.  

There are essentially two routes you can go:

1) inexpensive and effective, but not easily separated on the fly. In this category, you have the subcategories for fixed and articulating bridges, such as the NVision Bridge and the TNVC NPBM respectively. Modarmory also makes a good articulating bridge for pretty cheap.

2) expensive and easily separated. This would be your KAC RQE/KVC bridge (~1000 with OSS shoe), Wilcox Binocular Bridge System (~$1000), and the Integrated Components D-14 mount ($575).

I'm not a huge fan of bridge mounts in general, but if I was to make a recommendation, I would go with one of the less expensive options such as the NVision or NPBM. I don't really see the point in dumping $1000 into a bridge mount when you could harvest your tubes and glass and put them into a MOD3B housing for around the same price and have a better bino that also has the same functionality of splitting tubes apart. You can sell your spare housing parts for about $600 and make up the overall cost easily. So if you're fixed on bridging 14s, it makes the most sense to me to go with the less expensive option, especially since 99% of the time you'll be running them as duals.

Excellent video, good advice, one of the things that helped me decide on my D14 bridge.

If you're like me you're thinking about integration. Part of that for me is how I'm going to carry my PVS14 on my carrier.  

One of the nice things about the Integrated Components D14 from Mod Armory is the quick connect/disconnect feature. The D14 bridge can be kept on your mount. The D14 comes with its own special sort of very low profile j-arm that screws into the PVS14 and then can connect/disconnect to the bridge.  This is a great feature, because when you want to disconnect the PVS14 you can easily store it in a pouch on your plate carrier and then reconnect quickly when you want (although this takes practice to learn how to do when wearing the helmet in the dark).  

The other thing I like about my D14 is that it works very well with just one PVS14.  You don't have anything weird and empty sticking off the other side if you're not running two PVS14s.  It's really a great bridge for a single PVS14, because you get the ability to flip it up stored in the horizontal like you see guys do with duals or flipping it up stored in the vertical very close to the helmet for a low profile.

So far, I only have my one PVS14, but I'm pretty happy with it.