Hopefully they come out with an updated PERST-3 at some point that takes the 18650 battery with the rear access like the Perst-2.

+1

That's the same method I use on my ghetto-spliced switches.    They've held up nearly 2 years, now, though I haven't been out using them as much as I'd like.

Hey how are you guys zeroing these things? I want to do a constant off set but no clue how to achieve that exactly.

There are a couple ways to zero it, depending on your usage. Zero it to where it should work good enough out to 300m, or zero it to where itll work good at point blank ranges. The first you’ll want to set it to the grouping, the latter you’ll want to measure the distance from the aperture to the bore, and set the impact grouping that far from the laser impact zone.

method one
From Steiner on zeroing the D2 for 25m/300m range:
“3.5.b Zeroing on a 25 Meter Range 2
This procedure is used to zero the DBAL-D . Each adjuster click moves the strike point by 1 cm on the M16A2/M16A4 25 meter zeroing target. Refer to Figure 3-12 and Figure 3-13.
1. On a 25 meter zeroing target, mark the designated strike point and designated 4 cm/6 cm strike zone based on the weapon you are using.
2. Mount the target on an “E” silhouette or other suitable surface at 25m.
3. Set the adjusters to their factory neutral position as described in Paragraph 3.5.
4. Activate the aiming laser (visible pointer or IR pointer) to be zeroed by rotating the Activation Mode Selector Switch to the desired position. Press the Integrated Momentary Activation Switch or the Remote Cable Switch twice in rapid succession to activate the laser continuously. When aligning the IR pointer, leave the IR LED ILLUM Exit Port Cover in place. Aim center mass of the target until the aiming laser disappears through the 4 cm cut out.
5. Fire a 3-round shot group and note the center of the shot group relative to the designated strike zone.
6. Adjust the aiming beam adjusters to move the center of the shot group to the designated strike zone.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the shot group falls within the strike zone.
8. When firing the M16, M4 series series of weapons, when 5 out of 6 consecutive rounds are in the designated 4cm strike zone you are zeroed.”

I dont think this would be too different from a Perst laser. You have to remember that the bullet is going to drop 9.8m/s/s, and the laser is something that will be an angular constant, probably around 3MoA, so you can only truly zero it out to so many places. A 25m/300m zero is the most practical. Get the grouping to be even with the laser at 25m, and it should still be impacting just inside the beam at 300m, when the beam is about 9”-12” across, being 3-4 MoA. At least on any standard sized AR15 handguard. Have the impact zone on the low side for a closer-in zero, high side for a further-out zero, but at 300, the laser is big enough itll not really matter, and youre practically estimating where in the beam its going to hit. Don’t forget about the slight sideways offset depending on your laser module.

method two
My MP5 has a Perst-1 on the bottom rail. I measured the distance between the laser and the bore, and have the rifle hitting that much higher at 25m. At 75m its [i]probably[/] right on, which is all i care for, because it isnt something i ever plan on shooting over 100m. I don’t think this method would work all too well if your laser is mounted on the top, because bullet drop.
1. Measure the distance from the bore to the laser emitter
2. On a 10m range, fire a 3 shot group at the target, measure the impact zone in relation to the beam
3. Adjust the aiming beam to move the center of the shot group to be the desired distance from the beam
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the impact of the projectiles is the measured distance away from the laser beam that the bore is from the laser emitter
5. Confirm this zero at 25m and 100m

Hope this helps

I get that's how you zero a steiner, I see that the in the TELLURIC GROUP targets that each laser zero is at a different point. I'm wondering where the sweet spot for the Perst is.

Mount to rifle,  measure offset,  profit

I think you're way overthinking this. It's just a laser.

I usually zero the windage with my regular optic as far as I can see or at least as far as I intend to shoot. Zero elevation at 150-200. Hundreds of dead pigs to show for it.

You can play with ballistic programs with your height over bore to find what distance gives you the best pbr zero.

There's a recent zeroing thread around that has a lot of good info. I changed to a method described in there, as it just made a metric ton of sense, combined with almost zero involved in the process:

Find a place that has something at an absurd range you will never shoot at... Place optic aiming point on 'target'... Adjust LASER to superimpose over/under Dot/Reticle. At any range, you will never be off more than the physical measurement between diode and optic aiming point (at muzzle obviously being the most difference) - you only account for hold-over, just like with optic.

If wanted, you could get extremely anal/precise by using an actual silhouette target, a spotting scope, and a rest of some time that keeps the rifle locked on target.

It's so simple I thank the guy that posted it for us 'new to LASER' peeps.

Edit: It was MunnyShot ^^^

All my optics are a 50/200 and since I will likely never shoot over 200 except on my static range I just put my laser on my optic reticule on a known 200 yard target.

So far, no paper target has evaded me ;)

Do you guys know what these screws are for? I’m assuming for the switch or is it for something else.

https://imgur.com/a/7sgEGPN

+1

@Shinnne

fixed it for you. now that you mention it, i was wondering the same thing

replacement battery compartment screws.

Anyone explain how best to zero the Illuminator with this set screw set up?

Damn.  Tried to order a Perst 4 last night, my card apparently no longer allows transactions with Russia.  I guess I'll have to call them and see if they'll let it go through.

ETA:  got it.  Russian collusion in process!

Anyone have an update when the Perst 3 might receive a housing revision to a screw cap?

It'll just grind my gears to have the 4/2 with a crispy smooth screw cap but the 3 rocking the horrible screwed down plate.

Got an email from Ivan, Perst 4 shipped today.  I opted for standard shipping.

My last one (Perst 1) took about 6 weeks total, with most of that spent sitting at customs in New York.

I recently purchased a perst-3 from the ebay store named "zenitco". Tonight I tried to get a converging zero on a tree 80 yards away with the visible laser. I successfully got the zero and started to mess around with the unit under night vision. After about 5 minutes of this I rechecked the zero and noticed it had shifted about 10 inches at 80 yards. I re-obtained the zero, lightly shook the gun and had the same thing happen. I also checked if this occurred with the IR laser and got the same result. My perst is mounted on a bcm MCMR (bought as a complete bcm upper) with a vortex razor 1-6 in a larue mount for the optic. I have had no issues with the razor and was plinking away with it at 300 yard 10 inch gongs earlier today. In an effort to take the rail out of the equation I directly mounted the razor to the mcmr, got another converging zero, and tried it again getting the same result. After this I tried to remount the perst, this time with a different rail slot, pushing the perst forwards and tightly torquing the mounting screw and the issue remained. I previously owned a dbal d2 and didnt have this issue. As a last measure I mounted both the perst and a holosun dot directly to my upper receiver (no MCMR involved) , followed the above procedure, and the same issue was present.

I am going to contact the ebay vendor and see what they have to say.

Yikes, hopefully this is not a common problem.  I hope everything gets worked out for you.

I'm not sure how I feel about the "tool less" option screws that come with the Perst-3

Seems like they would be hard to remove, and also seem hard to tighten.

I'll mess with them for awhile but atleast it's an option.

So I got my Perst 3 green plus. Ordered off eBay from Zenitco. Ordered 24 July and received 8 Aug. Mounted on a KAC 16" SR-15 upper with a Noveske lower. Aimpoint T1 with lower 1/3rd. KAC irons and a surefire on the right side.

I have experience with Peq-4, Peq-2, PEQ-15 and PEQ-15A.

My review seems to be pretty inline with everyone else so far.

The overall fit and finish is not Steiner level but it does feel solid.

Mounts low and just a small amount of the top laser adjustment cap shows in the fov the lower right side. Pleasantly surprised.

Mounted close up on the KAC iron it just barely rubs on the illuminator plate when you flip it up.

I actually do not mind the flat head screw driver mount and have never had a use for quick disconnect on a laser.

Unlike other people I also do not mind the battery compartment. I always have a Gerber around and I like how low profile it is. Sometimes battery caps that are twist on in the back get in the way or are hard to access.

The pressure switch is awesome and pretty durable. I could see the adjustment dial breaking if it took a decent hit like maybe on a armored vehicle door. The pressure pad attachment to the laser is nice but just like any other pressure switch could break if hit hard right on it. The quick disco screw that I think are meant for the battery compartment can also be use on the pressure pad mount. The pad is a touch long and could be an issue on a SBR. The pressure pads on the laser itself are great as well.

The adjustment of the laser power levels really works and I like how you adjust individual components but when you are dual laser/ Illum it just dials down illumination.

With the programming it would mind being able to dial the IR laser even lower.

I also think it could have been slick if the programmed the blinking mode to engage on its own when a certain battery level is reached.

Took it to the woods where I have about 200 meters. Rifle has a 200 yard zero and just co-witnessed the laser on the target at 200 yards with the T1 on NV.

This thing is by far the brightest laser I haver ever used. It is no joke.

ISSUES
The illumination diffuser felt apart on me immediately. The lens fell out.

I lost the damn adjustment caps and had to come back the next day in the light to find them. I am going to find a way to attach them to the unit or rifle.

Zeroing the illuminator is the sketchiest thing ever to be put on a weapon mounted anything. It utilizes the tiniest "will strip any second hex bolts ever" and they move the illuminator in random directions. Once adjusted it didn't seem to move but I am literally scared to adjust it again and fear I am doing it wrong.

I have images taken ghetto through a pvs-14 but don't know how to upload.

I messaged Zenitco about the diffuser and adjustment caps before I found them so we will see how they fix that.

@Stryker

i used the included hex key on the number 12 screws. i then adjusted the illuminator so the IR laser was centered in the field of view. there are left/right and up/down markings near the illuminator screws. i believe it is either a 1.6mm or 2mm hex key.

i did find this last picture, i have not tried this method though. it is saying to use number 20 to zero laser. i had a russian friend come by today, she said there was no mention of number 20 in the ZenitCo manual.

Attached File

Attached File

Attached File

Attached File

someone who has multiple models could be a saint if they made English label stickers to place on them, at least for the rotating selector knob. or if anyone has one of those cool laser engravers/markers that could make metallic stick on labels for better durability.

I wish I was home in my workshop dangit!

That last pic of what #20 is actually pretty helpful. Basically as long as you have a flat head with you everything is good. Of course go ahead and try using that while wearing night vision holding a rifle, putting in the included part #20 then turning it with a screw driver all while the thing wants to fry eyeballs.

Got my Perst-4 today.  Like everyone says, it's a lightsaber.  It's kind of scary, TBH.

I really appreciate the fact that it has a lockout switch both on the sight itself and on the tape switch.  Someone a few pages back mentioned that they've taken to storing everything with a laser in the safe muzzle down, and I recently did too.  Today when I pulled out my rifle to replace the Perst-1 with the -4 I noticed the little blue LED was on.  I specifically remember checking it to see if it was shut off when I put it away, so apparently the switch got bumped at some point, probably when I was pulling it out tonight.  The lockout feature on the -4 should help prevent something like that from happening.

PERST 3

Looks good!

I really want one of those Perst 4s.
I just ordered a Perst 1 to tide me over while I recoup $$ from a recent NV expenditure.

Does anybody have pictures of what a Perst 1 looks like mounted on an AR?
Wondering if it will clear an Absolute CoWitness.
Also curious how it looks with lower 1/3 as well.

Got a couple PERST 4's in from black phase and I am pretty impressed so far.

In front of MI lower 1/3 mount

Thank you Sir!
Exactly what I was looking to see.

I had my Perst-1 mounted in front of an LMT fixed front sight.  Worked great.

Double Tap

PERST needs a replacement LEAF battery door from Railscales. Screws into the tool front screw and battery door screws and allows toolless battery swap, has front sight, holds tethered adjustment tool.

Back from vacation but my replacement Pest 2 (SN:0022) was delivered on August 12th, so door to door about 3.5 weeks for the RMA. Ivan said they can't ship via DHL anymore because of their new anti gun policy, so this came back Russian EMS

Like I said earlier they shipped me the replacement no questions asked and before I had shipped my firmware issue unit back to them, so the two crossed in the mail. I'm definitely happy with the customer service so far

That would actually be a pretty trivial project for anyone with a mini-mill or similar setup.

My Perst 4 arrived here in Canada in 11 days with the faster of the two (non-DHL) options. Spent 5 days in Russia bouncing around and then with outbound customs and another 5 in transit. Spent a total of 9 minutes at inbound customs (no duty!) and then another day to me. Can't complain about that.

This thing is freaking terrifyingly powerful. Lightsaber indeed.

I don't have this laser but I have others and the method I use is turn your red dot down to just visible through nods and move the laser to match your red dot on the farthest object possible.

Hit 400 meter steel with this method and it's done without firing a shot. I knew about this method but never tested it to distance until a class I did in June.

Actually an 18350 is about the same size as a CR123 but can handle similar output levels as an 18650, just with less run time. I think we'll start seeing more of both of these as more and more people realize we are at the end of the road in terms of developing solutions around legacy battery tech.

Perst 4 came in from Black Phase, he must've had it in stock because I got it in like four days. It's alot smaller than I expected but it's crazy powerful!

Be careful with it, I've been told the laser on Perst 4 is the same full power one from Perst 2

is there any difference in the IR laser between the perst 3 green and the perst 3 green+

No difference in the IR.

Specs say the green laser is 12 vs 18 mW.

I only have the 3+ and it is pretty awesome. Really easy to see the green aiming point during the brightest part of the day to help sight in. Wether that's worth it or not is up to the individual.

Looking to get one of these....aside from the provided pic above...any other shots of the green light saber in use?

does anyone have experience with this pressure pad https://ivantactical.com/shop/weapon-accessories/flashlights-and-accessories/accesories/zenitco-kv-4-2-double-remote-pressure-switch-for-perst-4-and-klesh-2-combo/ ?  does anyone know if they functions can be slaved?

4 days, so far. Attached File

Looks like Black Phase Tactical is going to get some Garand Thumb love in the future