Most of us have seen TNVCs video on the subject with high speed targets and indoor range:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tu591pdAQc4[/youtube]

I made my own target with a piece of glint tape taken from old ACUs, didn't work as well as I had hoped. (AB Night vision 2AA PVS14 and Burris DBAL IR / Vis green was used). The visible laser is on the right and IR is on the left of this unit, so I took the glint tape and taped it to the center of a standard M4 zero target. Down and left two squares I made a 2x2 circle for the visible laser ; down and right two squares I made a 2x2 circle for IR laser. I went to the range in the day light (when they are open) and got the visible laser constant off set zeroed using the TNVC method. It was pretty easy.

I could not see the IR laser on high or low in the day light with the lens cap on my PVS, it was over cast but still to bright. Didn't want to burn it out either, was just going to turn on, check, turn off. (Bitch all you want, I didn't use your NVG did I?) Also idiots at the range were being unsafe and I unassed that place.

Brings me to tonight.

I used laser range finder and found that my gunsmith bench in my shed is 35yd to the privacy fence though the shed door. Convenient! As previously stated, the visible laser was constant offset zeroed, I locked the rifle in a gun vise and shined the visible laser on the fence. Next I taped up the target with the laser on THE OPPOSITE corner of the glint tape. Since the visible is upper right, I placed the dot two up and two right squares from the glint tape. Next I turned off the lights, flipped down the PVS, and switched to IR laser. I could see the adjustments very easily on the fence using a screwdriver.to dial the dot closer to up two left two. It was a lot of walking back and forth from the gun to the target. The glint tape worked much better in the dark BTW.

Anyone else try this method? Have any other methods?

I just cowitness my optic and laser at 100 yards. IIRC, TNVC has suggested using a chemlight almost completely stuck through a target as an aiming point, so when you hit, you know it.

+1 I just looked through the eotech and adjusted the laser until  it matched up to the 1moa dot in the optic.

I have my laser mounted at 12 oclock on the rail so I dont have to worry about that left/right junk at any distance

ETA: I use the CT rail master so the laser is literally dead center to the bore

Same here

I am having a similar problem with adjusting a IR laser on a .22 rifle just for close up Armadillo extermination near my house
and I do see the need for a Eotech at ranges under 50 feet. I want to just point and shoot.
My problem is that I cannot co-witness the laser with the iron sights on the rifle as the laser gets in the way of the rear sight.
I suppose I'll have to go out tonight and try to adjust in the dark starting out close to my target and then backing up to hone in on something accurate.

The problem with aligning the red dot and laser at a specific range is its only good at that range. Beyond your zero distance the laser will continue askew to the opposite of the offset of your laser. Do your 50 yard zero and look at 200 yards, your dot will be way off to one side and way low. The TNVC video has a graphic explaining this. With a constant offset, your laser is straight out from the bore so the bullet strike will always be the same in relation to point of aim. Excluding trajectory of course.

This is a horrible representation of what you need to do to zero and IR laser, and the off set isn't exactly correct, but it should give you an idea of what to do and what not to do and why.



I'm an amazing artist.

So I have point and click headshots to 200 yards, which is beyond my PID range with my unmagnified 14. I'm ok with it.

Either that, or run a 300 meter zero like real men.  

Both pictures are the same thing, just not to scale. It is not possible for the laser to be parallel to the bullet path. I think what you meant to draw is the laser should be parallel to the LOS.

For example if your LOS is dead on at 100yds, and your laser is 1 inch left an 1 inch low of your optic, then on your 100yds target your laser POI should also be 1 inch low and 1 inch left.

Just zero your laser at the max range you will use the laser with the optical sight you are using.

At the barrel it will be at max offset which is the distance it is off center from the bore 1 to 2 ".

If you zero it at 300 meters with your scope,  at 150 yds it would be 1/2 the offset so 1/2 to 1" to the left or right depends where you mounted the laser on the left or the right side of the barrel.

At 600 yards it will be off 1 to 2" to the opposite side of where you mounted it (because it has crossed the zero plane) plus the bullet drop which has not been addressed.

Using the laser will get you within a couple on inches either way when adjusted to the longest range you will use it at.

Remember a laser travels in a straight line, the bullet starts dropping as soon as it leaves the barrel (gravity has this effect on things).
It appears to rise to the scope because the barrel is tilted upward to zero the rifle at a given range say 100 yds.
The bullet will impact at 100yds you can adjust it for rising or falling depending how you sight in the rifle and how high the scope is above the barrel.
For a bullet and load that has a big drop or arc the higher you mount the scope the better, as this will give the best look down as the bullet is dropping( keeps zero longer).
For flat shooting rifles the lower the scope the better as you want to keep the bullet path the same as the optical path to keep the bullet and the scope zeroed the longest.
Same applies to a laser, closer to the center of the bore for flat shooting rifles the better and a higher mounting for arcing bullets.

I think this is a top view. He is saying you should be off in windage.

I focus my laser to the dot of my eotech. I havent had any problems so far.

It is a top view. Thanks. Thought it would be obvious.

But hey, do you like my ms paint art skills?

hehe, my bad

So good I thought it was mounted like the one in this picture:

the laser is at an offset and the point of impact is suppose to be different from the point of impact of the optic depending on where the laser is mounted on the gun. The easiest way I have found to get a BZO for lasers is to put my zeroed optic over the designated strike point box, then adjust the laser into the aiming point, then do a course of fire to make fine adjustments.



that is a zero target for a top rail mounted IR laser.