Hmm.

This should not be the case. Not saying I don't believe you, I certainly do, but your goggles should not be so close as to be scraping the lenses at full extension, I wear eyeglasses myself, and have always had plenty of room, if anything, most complaints I hear are about not being able to get goggles close enough, and I think they should be run a little bit further out than many do. That being said, everyone is built a little bit differently, and some people just need a little more travel, hence things like the Wilcox G22E.

A couple of questions though:

Are you using the correct SAM mount? Different helmets have different profiles and angles and thus require the adapters to be slightly different based on helmet geometry. IIRC, you should be using an ACH adapter for the Team Wendy's geometry, so if you are using an Ops-Core/Crye model, it may be effecting your ability to adjust it properly if you're at the edges of the adjustment tolerances.

Are you sure that your helmet is sized correctly? I tend to be a "between sizes" kind of guy when it comes to helmets, e.g., I can fit into a M/L (now L) Ops-Core or a L/XL (now XL), but I prefer to use a size up, and NVG adjustment ranges is one of the reasons. Are your strap adjustments close to maxed out? How much "room" is inside your helmet with the current suspension/pads? The solution could also just be a thicker brow pad if you have room for one, and/or re-adjusting the helmet pads within the helmet, as that may change the way the helmet sits on your head, and push your NODs out a little bit further.

If none of these things works for you, and maybe it's just your personal facial/head geometry, which it could be, it might be worth considering switching to the Wilcox L4 G22E, and switching to the dovetail mount. Some might even recommend just switching to a dovetail anyways, as many prefer the dovetail interface anyways. I personally prefer the ball-detent mount for a couple of reasons, but the dovetails do lock up more "solidly" just based on the design, so if the primary thing you're looking for is a solid lock-up without any slop, it may be better for your purposes.

~Augee

Yep, that's the Ops-Core adapter.

If you want to stick with the Adams SAM, you can either see if someone will trade with you, or you can order the correct mount:

https://tnvc.com/shop/surface-anvis-mount/

You just have to select "ACH/MICH" in the "Helmet Style" drop down selection box.

Another option is the AB Night Vision STORM mount:

https://tnvc.com/shop/ab-night-vision-storm-mount-for-anvis/
(Shoot me a PM and I can double check which is the correct version)

There are also more expensive mounts like the various Wilcox versions, but they are, for the most part "nominally" designed for Ops-Core/Crye-style helmets. For a lot of folks, the difference in the angles is negligible enough that they either don't know or don't notice the difference from normal adjustments, but as you can see, when it matters, it matters, hahaha, and I haven't played enough with the specific combination of the Wilcox mounts on Team Wendy helmets to give you a definite yes/no on whether or not that will give you enough adjustment.

Another option is, of course, to switch to the dovetail interface, which may give you a little bit more adjustment than is built into the ANVIS interface, but I know you're both familiar with the ball-detent interface, and mentioned wanting to run an external battery pack.

One final question--have you played around much with the tilt/elevation adjustment on the Sentinel ANVIS adapter? The Sentinel tilt adjustment works a little differently than the tilt adjustment on the AN/AVS-6s and 9s, but you may be able to get the goggles out a little bit further by adjusting and messing around with the tilt and elevation a little bit.

~Augee

Unfortunately, removing the existing shim is unlikely to work as desired, as it still needs a shim to get to the proper angle, just a different one.

That being said, I do not know the thread pitch off top of my head, but most likely, if you take either the mount, or even just the screw to a hardware store, you can usually find screws without issue, and I've found ANVIS mount-screws at a rural ACE before, so it's unlikely to be something so exotic that you're not going to find anything.

Duals, especially lighter ones like the DTNVGs should be no issue on the Bump/Base Jump. Counterweights are really a matter of personal preference, some folks like more or less weight. I did make this chart some time ago, however, that might help you decide where to start vis-a-vis counterweight mass:



DTNVGs are listed at 18.8 ounces so I might start, say, with about 11.5-12 ounces of counterweight and then move up or down from there.

And, just a plug--the TNVC MK1 Mohawk comes with four ~4 ounce removable lead weights and battery storage that allow you to customize and configure your counterweight.

~Augee