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Posted: 11/19/2012 10:56:10 AM EDT
Hey guys,

Just purchased a 91/30 and looking to refinish the stock after getting the cosmoline out.

1) I was planning on wrapping the stock up in paper towels and then seal inside three layers of garbage bags and sit in boiling water to sweat out the cosmoline. Oven isn't really an option. Has anyone had success with this method?

2) Once the cosmoline is out, I was going to run through with a paint brush and mineral spirits to remove any remaining shellac. Does this sound right?

3) Then sand it down, and apply a pre-stain to ensure a more even application of the stain. Can anyone recommend one way or another on this item?

4) I was thinking of a Red Mahogany stain from Minwax. Hopefully one coat, but would do 2 if needed. This isn't really a question per se.

5) Was going to use poly instead of shellac. I've seen some people use Tung Oil - what would the advantages of Tung Oil be over Poly?

6) Anyone have pictures of any refinished wood?

Would appreciate any help/guidance. First timer here.
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 11:28:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Hey guys,

Just purchased a 91/30 and looking to refinish the stock after getting the cosmoline out.

1) I was planning on wrapping the stock up in paper towels and then seal inside three layers of garbage bags and sit in boiling water to sweat out the cosmoline. Oven isn't really an option. Has anyone had success with this method?

2) Once the cosmoline is out, I was going to run through with a paint brush and mineral spirits to remove any remaining shellac. Does this sound right?

3) Then sand it down, and apply a pre-stain to ensure a more even application of the stain. Can anyone recommend one way or another on this item?

4) I was thinking of a Red Mahogany stain from Minwax. Hopefully one coat, but would do 2 if needed. This isn't really a question per se.

5) Was going to use poly instead of shellac. I've seen some people use Tung Oil - what would the advantages of Tung Oil be over Poly?

6) Anyone have pictures of any refinished wood?

Would appreciate any help/guidance. First timer here.


This isn't going to go as you expected.

De-cosmoline the thing and leave it alone.
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 11:37:23 AM EDT
[#2]
Well, for one if you are going to strip the shellac, your going to need denatured alcohol, or acetone.  Mineral spirits won't do it.  I also recommend that you strip the shellac before trying to degrease it.  

I refinished a M44 a few years back (when they were still plentiful) I stripped the wood, degreased, steamed the dents out, and stained with a dark mahogany stain.  Then I sprayed it with a clear shellac.  It turned out really nice.

I see nothing wrong with refinishing a 91/30, as long as it's not a rare rifle or anything.  I mean they still are $100 rifles, and there is still plenty left to go around.  Now I wouldn't recommend re-finishing a M44 like i did a few years ago now, but hey, it needed it, and at the time it was a $80 rifle.  OP's gun, OP's choice.

Pics of my M44 (It's actually a bit redder than what the pic shows)


Link Posted: 11/19/2012 12:16:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Well, for one if you are going to strip the shellac, your going to need denatured alcohol, or acetone.  Mineral spirits won't do it.  I also recommend that you strip the shellac before trying to degrease it.  

I refinished a M44 a few years back (when they were still plentiful) I stripped the wood, degreased, steamed the dents out, and stained with a dark mahogany stain.  Then I sprayed it with a clear shellac.  It turned out really nice.

I see nothing wrong with refinishing a 91/30, as long as it's not a rare rifle or anything.  I mean they still are $100 rifles, and there is still plenty left to go around.  Now I wouldn't recommend re-finishing a M44 like i did a few years ago now, but hey, it needed it, and at the time it was a $80 rifle.  OP's gun, OP's choice.

Pics of my M44 (It's actually a bit redder than what the pic shows)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h313/joe7170/IM000118.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h313/joe7170/IM000116.jpg


So what you are saying is - before even getting the cosmoline out, I should strip with the alcohol or acetone? Then proceed with trying to sweat out the cosmoline?

Thanks for the help and pictures - looks gorgeous.
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 12:24:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Shellac can easily be removed with steel wool + acetone. Given that shellac is  a finish that goes over the wood rather than penetrating removing the shellac will remove the cosmo...

Here is a m44 stock that I salavaged on a 100% EP m44.. the stock was painted black.

Had to use some thing a little stronger than acetone.... then just buffed tru-oil as the finish.. natural color of the wood . I didnt stain it.





I usually dont recommend refinishing miltary surplus.. but REFURB 91/30 run-of-the-mills i will make an exception.. a stock w/ handguard + accessory kit can still be had for 29$ via Royal Tiger Imports if one wants to get it back to original condition.

What year is the rifle and how does the stock look now?
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 12:41:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well, for one if you are going to strip the shellac, your going to need denatured alcohol, or acetone.  Mineral spirits won't do it.  I also recommend that you strip the shellac before trying to degrease it.  

I refinished a M44 a few years back (when they were still plentiful) I stripped the wood, degreased, steamed the dents out, and stained with a dark mahogany stain.  Then I sprayed it with a clear shellac.  It turned out really nice.

I see nothing wrong with refinishing a 91/30, as long as it's not a rare rifle or anything.  I mean they still are $100 rifles, and there is still plenty left to go around.  Now I wouldn't recommend re-finishing a M44 like i did a few years ago now, but hey, it needed it, and at the time it was a $80 rifle.  OP's gun, OP's choice.

Pics of my M44 (It's actually a bit redder than what the pic shows)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h313/joe7170/IM000118.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h313/joe7170/IM000116.jpg


So what you are saying is - before even getting the cosmoline out, I should strip with the alcohol or acetone? Then proceed with trying to sweat out the cosmoline?

Thanks for the help and pictures - looks gorgeous.


Yes, degreasing before removing the shellac won't accomplish much.  Just take the alcohol or acetone to it, and you'll pretty much degrease and de-cosmo it too.  You may still need to use some heat to weep out the cosmo depending on how bad it is, but alot will come off with the alcohol or acetone...
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 12:43:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Shellac can easily be removed with steel wool + acetone. Given that shellac is  a finish that goes over the wood rather than penetrating removing the shellac will remove the cosmo...

Here is a m44 stock that I salavaged on a 100% EP m44.. the stock was painted black.

Had to use some thing a little stronger than acetone.... then just buffed tru-oil as the finish.. natural color of the wood . I didnt stain it.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8176768743_d6a8eefb1c_b.jpg


I usually dont recommend refinishing miltary surplus.. but REFURB 91/30 run-of-the-mills i will make an exception.. a stock w/ handguard + accessory kit can still be had for 29$ via Royal Tiger Imports if one wants to get it back to original condition.

What year is the rifle and how does the stock look now?


I pretty much see it this way.  OP, take a few pics and let us see the stock, and we can fine tune our advice.
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 12:47:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Shellac can easily be removed with steel wool + acetone. Given that shellac is  a finish that goes over the wood rather than penetrating removing the shellac will remove the cosmo...

Here is a m44 stock that I salavaged on a 100% EP m44.. the stock was painted black.

Had to use some thing a little stronger than acetone.... then just buffed tru-oil as the finish.. natural color of the wood . I didnt stain it.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8176768743_d6a8eefb1c_b.jpg


I usually dont recommend refinishing miltary surplus.. but REFURB 91/30 run-of-the-mills i will make an exception.. a stock w/ handguard + accessory kit can still be had for 29$ via Royal Tiger Imports if one wants to get it back to original condition.

What year is the rifle and how does the stock look now?


I pretty much see it this way.  OP, take a few pics and let us see the stock, and we can fine tune our advice.


+1.. it may be an early preWar stock/dragoon... if it is.. leave it.. and get a 29$ stock to play with

But as Jnk said.. take some pics so we can fine tune our recommendations
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 1:24:31 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Shellac can easily be removed with steel wool + acetone. Given that shellac is  a finish that goes over the wood rather than penetrating removing the shellac will remove the cosmo...

Here is a m44 stock that I salavaged on a 100% EP m44.. the stock was painted black.

Had to use some thing a little stronger than acetone.... then just buffed tru-oil as the finish.. natural color of the wood . I didnt stain it.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8176768743_d6a8eefb1c_b.jpg


I usually dont recommend refinishing miltary surplus.. but REFURB 91/30 run-of-the-mills i will make an exception.. a stock w/ handguard + accessory kit can still be had for 29$ via Royal Tiger Imports if one wants to get it back to original condition.

What year is the rifle and how does the stock look now?


I pretty much see it this way.  OP, take a few pics and let us see the stock, and we can fine tune our advice.


+1.. it may be an early preWar stock/dragoon... if it is.. leave it.. and get a 29$ stock to play with

But as Jnk said.. take some pics so we can fine tune our recommendations


i'll try to get some pics wednesday. currently living at my parents garage across town.
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 3:33:58 PM EDT
[#9]
I have seen very few russian 91/30 that actually needed cosmoline sweated out.  usually removing the finish will take out what little grease was sucked into the stock.  as mentioned earlier 91/30 were shellaced which kept the grease from sinking in.....now other milsurps are a different story because a lot of them had oil finishes of some kind that allowed the cosmoline to really set in.

advntrjnky
Link Posted: 11/19/2012 6:15:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I have seen very few russian 91/30 that actually needed cosmoline sweated out.  usually removing the finish will take out what little grease was sucked into the stock.  as mentioned earlier 91/30 were shellaced which kept the grease from sinking in.....now other milsurps are a different story because a lot of them had oil finishes of some kind that allowed the cosmoline to really set in.

advntrjnky


Very true.  Most of your refurb rifles are pretty much brand new wood under the shellac.  I know my M44 was basically white after I stripped it.  I think I applied about 2 coats of stain, to get it to darken as much as it did.  I believe they used arctic birch for stocks, and that's a very white wood anyways, not to mention it will suck up anything you put on it like crazy.
Link Posted: 11/20/2012 5:09:25 AM EDT
[#11]
2) Once the cosmoline is out, I was going to run through with a paint brush and mineral spirits to remove any remaining shellac. Does this sound right?

3) Then sand it down, and apply a pre-stain to ensure a more even application of the stain. Can anyone recommend one way or another on this item?

I just used wood stripper from home depot and it removed the shellac and the stain pretty quickly with no sanding required. After that I just LIGHTLY hit it with some fine grit (400 or finer) sandpaper. It smoothed out the wood but didn't hurt any of the stampings. Also I would recommend against using poly. I did it and wasn't thrilled and removing it is a PITA. Just my $.02
Link Posted: 11/20/2012 4:51:37 PM EDT
[#12]
I did mine with a fein tool and the crazy sanding pads that come with it. . It took me all of an hour .   that  tool was sent from god i will post some pics later
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